zombie_stomp

I thought of desmogging and going simple because of my fuel system problems too, so I don't blame you for wanting to do that. There are just so damn many vacuum-operated things on the engine to have to try to diagnose that it's hard to know what the major things to start with as a baseline even are, how to test each of them (and there are many) or what is ruled out when what number of the variables tests are tested to be working!

One thing that just crossed my mind to start with is the EGR valve/air injection system. I know our two problems are different. Yours probably starts up just fine every time, whereas mine has trouble deciding if it's going to even start whenever I turn it over. If I add starting fluid when the answer is no, it always changes to 'yes', and 'no' on "will you idle on your own?", and randomly not idle. I don't mean to thread jack, so my point is, what are the symptoms of clogged/malfunctioning EGR systems, and does that apply here?

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

Ok I'm desmoging my truck to rule out vacuum issues and putting a weber on it. Hopefully this fixes my issues. If anyone needs any smog components let me know

zombie_stomp

I may want to buy the whole rat's nest from you, in case my reman carb and all new vacuum lines doesn't help my problems. PM me when you're ready to get rid of all of it.

Are you goin with an LCE block off plate kit?

Perhaps others are right and the timing chain was installed a tooth off during rebuild?

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

Ok sure thing! I will put it with all the other parts I have for you! My dad and I own a machine shop with a water jet cutting machine that can cut any shape out of any material so im making my own block off plates for the exhaust and such... Yeah that could be true about the chain. I'm checking that after the desmoging

gillesdetrail

iTrader: (1)

If you want to buy a genuine weber carb, I would suggest carbsunlimited.com, it's also the cheapest place I found. There are just so many knock-offs everywhere it's unbeleivable, even webercarbsdirect.com carbs are all knock offs cheap chinese copies. Even if it says ''genuine real weber carb'' or is the same price as a real one most of the time it's a copy. It just pisses me off! Keep us updated.

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

Well finally have figured out the problem on this beast I believe. Turns out the stock rebuilt carb was allowing air to enter into the fuel system somehow. This allowed it to idle fine and at low speeds but there wasn't enough fuel for the high end burn. So I'm desmoging and have a weber 32/36 with LC Engineering adapter, fuel regulator, and fuel gauge all for $450 which I thought was pretty good considering the cost of all these items separately. So I should have it put back together with pictures by Tuesday.

g3bill2

Great you figured it out! This DeSmoging thing alot of you are doing will kick you in the A** If you decide to sell one day. I will never again buy a vehicle from AZ or any state that was desmoged, its just too much of a pain & $ getting the parts needed to pass smog in states that require testing and what if laws change then you got to be an OutLaw, LOL Off Road only I suppose Don't reply, just saying I'll pass you by We lov Pics

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

All the vacuum lines I just hate. Every line and piece it connects to is a potential problem that can make it run like crap so easily. I will never live in a state with smog laws. I think it's so bogus. I used to live in California and you have to have a permit or an inspection to do anything out there. Too much government control!!!!! To each his own. I will defiantly get some pictures up soon

g3bill2

You're so Right and hear ya as living in a state I hate also but much too late to relocate now Its the wave of the future, telling you what paint to use on your car, house or anything. They fine me regularly for violations on my property I can't afford to fix. Had to go to a class and more than one there said they were moving out and selling everything, one woman was crying cause they made her move her water heater from side of house in 5 foot set back, and her father just died.... California the land of Gold but mostly for the polititions and civic workers pensionsYa had to get me goin, Plus all these guys around here are buying up classic Toyota 4X4 PU's and deporting them to south of boarder

If it were possible for me to win a Lotto I'd be gone so fast Was this off topic? Sorry, not really.....
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zombie_stomp

Correct. If you rotate the engine one more revolution, it would be on TDC and pointing to the #1 cylinder on the distributor. That will indicate proper timing on the ignition system. It would also indicate proper timing of the crankshaft since the crank and flywheel pulley are connected with a keyway as is the camshaft and gear that connects to the distributor. If it were off a little, THEN I would suspect the timing chain to be off a tooth.

Then again, the only way for the crank and cam shaft to be out of time with one another would be, correct me if I'm wrong, if they were 180* out of phase. This would not work at all, would it?

Gearheads of more experience than me, correct me if I seem to be wrong.

Joel, 1984-?

zombie_stomp

How did you come to this conclusion? I am just wondering what test(s) you did to determine this was the problem. So that we know what to expect... I hadn't heard of this problem before, I just want to know as much as possible.

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

Once I figured out timing wasn't the issue I moved to the carburetor and vacuum lines. So I started the desmoging and kept the factory carb on but eliminated all unnecessary vacuum lines. Same result as before with no symptom change. I had been starting it almost everyday and then I had to go out of town for a few days and when I got back it wouldn't start at all until I primed the carb and got all the air to bleed out. I removed the carb and took it to a friend who upon inspection found one of the diaphragms to be faulty and actually sucking air into the fuel system.

g3bill2

Thought I'd revisit this for a moment; Beginning of thread: "" However the carb has just been professionally rebuilt so I know it's not the carb itself..."" How things come around. Seems like most of the time it usually comes back to a poor carb rebuild or gasket sealing. All professional means these days is there being paid. IMO if you can't fix it yourself inspecting each part, assume there's a chance it won't be correct or up to your standards, plus you'll waste time redoing.

Joe478

I am having same problem just did timing chain replacement, and went by the book .
Took old chain off did not move crank or cam shaft and installed new one ,checked with timing light and as close as I can get the mark to 0 is about little befor 8 on the indicator and my Distributer is bottom out. Just don't know what to do next or where to start

gillesdetrail

iTrader: (1)

The distributor may be badly installed...

Joe478

I will try moving a tooth in both directions to see if that works ,I was thinking that myself but not sure ,
I failed to mention I have MSD ignition and coil has anyone else had problems with these set ups as far as messing up timing

Joe478

Ok I got timing set the book said to set at 5 tdc despite everything I read on other sites so now I got it but now I have no low end torgue but I can go fast so still got problems can any one get me going in the right direction . I didn't mention but I got a demon carb on it
Could the carb be the problem , checked spark plugs and they were all black with carbon.
The motor sputters a little until I gas it a lot ,I mean spinning tire fast just to get it going
Also didn't mention I have a manual transmission

gillesdetrail

iTrader: (1)

man it is hard to follow you, but to guide you in the right direction it looks carb related, as in it is not tuned properly. You can also play with timing until 8 deg btdc (with dist. hoses capped). black spark plugs indicate rich condition. Btw I'm pretty sure you can start a thread on this.

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Was the cylinder head cut down by .020 or more?

If so your cam timing is out, retarded I believe is what it does, so you have no torque in the higher gears.

Check the valve lash too, a loose rocker can really cost in power & mpg. Another thing is the EGR coming on too hard. Cut up an aluminium can to make a gasket wit ha big tab and block off the egr. I bet its stuck open or partially open causing a higher than normal idle speed.

Joe478

I figured 8 deg btdc out by playing with the timing and now it is running good . One of my problems is the motor in the truck is not original so going by the chiton manual and year model is messing me up
Thank you for your help sorry I am hard to fallow but I am just trying to fix my toy and I am not a professional just like fixing thing s on my own