Pre 84 Trucks 1st gen pickups

22R stumbling idle, dies when coasting to a stop

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Old 03-18-2019, 11:51 AM
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Ok, which item needs to be replaced and what is the name of the part? Pic attached.

Old 05-04-2019, 04:56 AM
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Thought I would clear up my issue. Was a carb problem. The power piston washer and rubber seal had come loose from the rod. Rebuild kit too. Maybe this helps someone else.
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Old 12-10-2020, 01:14 PM
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Diagnosed as -No power to fuel cut solenoid.

Hey all,
I just finished installing a remanufactured 22R.
The original gave up around 224k the day before I had to move out from my apartment. At the dawning of COVID-19 and being laid off work. Terrible timing but forgivable for the many years of service the old truck has given me.

Once the engine was installed, the starter relay wouldn’t work and once I got that solved the darn thing wouldn’t idle. Skipping my sad story any further, I paid a shop to take over.

My idle issues have been determined by a certified Japanese engine mechanic as No power to fuel cut solenoid. Aisin oem carb.

Now I’ve seen people mentioned the solenoid going bad or losing it’s rubber ring, but what do I do in the case of no voltage to it? Is this something I can just hot wire to the battery?

Any help would be appreciated.

I’ve invested everything I own in this truck and have gone blind trying to get it road worthy again.
Old 12-10-2020, 01:52 PM
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Fuel Cut Solenoid-No Power

Originally Posted by 22Rself

Hey all,
I just finished installing a remanufactured 22R.
The original gave up around 224k the day before I had to move out from my apartment. At the dawning of COVID-19 and being laid off work. Terrible timing but forgivable for the many years of service the old truck has given me.

Once the engine was installed, the starter relay wouldn’t work and once I got that solved the darn thing wouldn’t idle. Skipping my sad story any further, I paid a shop to take over.

My idle issues have been determined by a certified Japanese engine mechanic as No power to fuel cut solenoid. Aisin oem carb.

Now I’ve seen people mentioned the solenoid going bad or losing it’s rubber ring, but what do I do in the case of no voltage to it? Is this something I can just hot wire to the battery?

Any help would be appreciated.

I’ve invested everything I own in this truck and have gone blind trying to get it road worthy again.
I am the original poster. I just accidentally posted in the wrong forum.
Old 12-10-2020, 11:57 PM
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I was having similar problems. In the emissions control box on near the pedals disconnect the male plug and remove the circuit board. On the backside of the connector pins, check the soldered connection to the board for cracks around them. This is causing a bad connection and not running the fuel cut off solenoid properly. Buy a soldering kit and fix it yourself. There is a better write up on Marlin Crawler, just google '81 Emissions control box.
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DAYLEY/CHALLENGER (10-11-2022)
Old 12-10-2020, 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 22Rself
I am the original poster. I just accidentally posted in the wrong forum.
I was having similar problems. In the emissions control box on near the pedals disconnect the male plug and remove the circuit board. On the backside of the connector pins, check the soldered connection to the board for cracks around them. This is causing a bad connection and not running the fuel cut off solenoid properly. Buy a soldering kit and fix it yourself. There is a better write up on Marlin Crawler, just google '81 Emissions control box.
Old 02-17-2021, 10:47 AM
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This didn’t fix the issue. Still not running even after paying $2000.00 to “professional “ mechanics.
One mechanic set my distributor with a bolt that only grabbed three threads and ripped out so now I have lost the timing and, how do you prove that they did something like that? I spent $200.00 to have them set my timing!
Old 08-24-2021, 02:37 AM
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Originally Posted by dropzone
so the 22R in my '81 is starting to run like your basic crap
Symptoms:
-periodically (not consistent) will die when coasting to a stop
-RPM's slightly erratic (400-600rpm range) when attempting to keep idle at 2K rpms...If idle kept at 2300+, no issues
-issues are not consistent if truck is cold or warm, choke turns off after a couple of minutes of warming

under acceleration truck has normal amount of power, no stumbling

Truck was doing this prior to the following parts replacement;
-new fuel pump
-ran Sea Foam (seemed to have helped for a few days)
-new plugs (correct gap), wires, distributor cap and rotor
-new fuel filter
-new air filter

I don't have my FSM (loaned out)
what I think it could be:
-throttle positioner
-PCV valve
-mixture control valve
-bad gas cap
-plugged filter in EGR vacuum modulator
-maybe time to rebuild the carb

-->have not dropped the tank to check the fuel pick up

any advice is appreciated...need to try to get this thing running good for the 2nd annual Oregon YT get together in a few weeks
I've got the same thing in my 89 petrol hilux. starts fine but if I don't pump the accelerator it dies, if I come to a stop at the lights it dies, change gears casually it dies. But also if I turn my lights on it jerks and my tacos needle jumps around.
Old 10-11-2022, 12:32 PM
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I am having the same issue i cannot find

Old 06-06-2023, 10:16 PM
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Fixed

Same problem. It was the emissions control box. Mine was located on the left right under the fuse box 1982 Toyota pickup 2wd 22r. I took a picture of the board and it's hard to see but there is some cracks and it wiggles where the connection pushes in. Once I found it in my truck I gave it a few smacks with my hand and I went back to normal of course now since I was f****** with the idle screw it's idling at like 2,000 so I got to fix that now LOL. But in case anybody else has this problem this is definitely the fix.




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