I have a 20R pick up 5 speed and the engine sounds like a John Deer tractor. Running a weber 32/36, MSD ignition, wires, plugs and distributor are less then 1 year old. I have gotten the compression and exhaust heat checked from a respectable mechanic and all came out to spec. Besides the clanking noise you hear in the video the engine also has a lot of shake. The engine mounts are 4 years old, bought from eBay. I don't remember the actual brand or type. I have tried playing with the trimming and I get the same results. Faster rpm faster clanking.

 

Sounds like an exhaust leak, is the back of the cylinder leaking where the EGR plate is? Did you block the air pipe going to the exhaust manifold?

 

Chasing the exhaust leak theory... at :15 in your video the air injection pipe is still bolted to your exhaust manifold/header and I see a gasket between but no block off plate.
Maybe there's one there and I just can't see it. BUT if not, and those ports are open, and the pipe leads around the back of the head to the intake side, and goes where?

 

@obrut The back of the engine where the EGR plate is, I blocked off. I circled it in green and the pipe marked in red runs from the exhaust manifold around and is plugged in to a smog related part that the smog pump is also connected to.




I connects here at this part, the smog pump is also connected to it and the original air filter was connected to it. But that got removed when I went to the weber carb.


I will check again and see if its leaking from the block off plate, and any where around it. Will investigate more closely for a vacuum leak. I honestly think its the lifters or a valve clatter. I have asked another mechanic and he also mentioned the valves. Still want to hear other peoples input, don't want to tear into something for no reason.

 

I could be wrong, but here's a diagram of those parts I found in the FSM. I believe where the red hose runs is to the Air Switching Valve, or ASV. Just my opinion though.

As to the rattle, I believe, for what it's worth, it could be one of two things. Or even a combination of them.

First, yeah, Toyota's 22r engine, whether 22R or 22RE, have a valve rattle. It's just the way it is. The valves rattle. Setting the valve lash properly will reduce it, but almost never eliminated. And never eliminate it for any length of time. They'll rattle again after a few miles. There's just no eliminating it.

Second, the timing chain. If it's loosened up enough, stretched out enough, that the tensioner can't keep it tight enough any more, it could be rattling against either the chain cover, the chain tensioner and guide, the engine block, or head. When the valve cover is removed, you can look down into the area the timing chain runs, to see how tight it is. If you're hands are relatively normally sized, not like my huge mitts, you can even reach down into the chain run, and feel how tight it is. You can also look to see if there's any wear, to either side.

Those are my thoughts. I get so few of them any more...
Pat☺

 

@2ToyGuy Those are 2 very good points. When I purchased the truck it not sound like at all. This is been in the last 2 years. Will this effect smog?

 

I hear exhaust leak.

If youre concerned its a timing chain, get a cheap stethoscope and nail down the noise.

R series do make valvetrain noise but theres a difference between noisy and loud...if that makes sense. An exhaust leak is like turning up the volume of whatever noise you already have.

 

I meant the EGR plate on the back of the head between the head and the firewall.
You can always use the long screwdriver to you ear trick to help narrow down the noise. Just place the tip on the front of the valve cover and the handle by your ear.
Can you check vacuum and see how much you have at idle?

 

I did not know there is a egr plate at the back of the head. I will look for that tomorrow. I did the stethoscope listening part a long time ago, and cylinder 3 and 4 had the loudest noise, and in the front of the engine front of piston 1.


And for those that mentioned exhaust leak you have great hearing. I was able to track down 3 spots from the headers, using this system.


I learned this from a utuber, its actually genius. The car needs to be cold for the soapy water not to evaporate. The 2 coming from the brown pipe I think I can fix with metal puttie but head to heater I don't think I can. Can I block that pipe off all together, or remove it? Im thinking if I take it to a muffler shop maybe they can weld those wholes shut.

 

I drilled and tap mine, if you search there is a thread with the tap and plug size.