Welders for body work and light frame welding?
#1
Welders for body work and light frame welding?
I need to do a bit of welding on the rustbucket of a 4Runner I just bought. Things like either replacing or reinforcing a few body mounts (on the body and 1 i know of on the frame) and fixing some rust.
My problem is I dont have a welder, nor do I have a 200+ V hookup for a bigger welder even if I could buy one. This leaves me with 3 options:
1. I can borrow a 110v welder a friend has, no idea how well its gonna work but its free to borrow and its an older wirefeed I think, similar to this hobart one: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...7024_200127024
2. I live at home and somehow convince my parents to let me wire in that 200+ V hook up and I buy a good welder, which tbh I dont have the cash for. I really dont think they are gonna let me have it wired in, I mean I could pay for it no big deal but I have no idea the cost either as the panel is in the basement opposite the garage. A good 75 feet of cable would have to be run out the window or through the walls, window I think is best as its not permanent.
3. Someone here must live near me with a welder and wants to help me out.. I really hope someone does live near central NJ. but I doubt it..
Really, what I need to weld so far that I found is one body mount on the frame needs to be reinforced, the body mounts on the body in 2 spots need to be redone or reinforced on the drivers side and the drivers sid floorpan may need to be remove alltogether and a panel welded in.
So will a 110v machine at least do the job, speed isnt as important as actually doing it. I can live with being able to weld for 5 minutes then waiting ahalf hour to cool.
The only other option is I need to go to the shop I work for and borrow thier welder-issue is its in a bay and the shop is always busy and I cant take up the bay really.
My other idea was to take heavy gauge sheetmetal and remove asmuch rust as possible and coat it, then to use self tapping screws and put the metal in or use heavy construction adhesive in the non critical areas. This would cut down on any welding I need to do and save me the hassle of welding. However I dont think it would be nearly as strong as I imagine vs welding..
My problem is I dont have a welder, nor do I have a 200+ V hookup for a bigger welder even if I could buy one. This leaves me with 3 options:
1. I can borrow a 110v welder a friend has, no idea how well its gonna work but its free to borrow and its an older wirefeed I think, similar to this hobart one: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...7024_200127024
2. I live at home and somehow convince my parents to let me wire in that 200+ V hook up and I buy a good welder, which tbh I dont have the cash for. I really dont think they are gonna let me have it wired in, I mean I could pay for it no big deal but I have no idea the cost either as the panel is in the basement opposite the garage. A good 75 feet of cable would have to be run out the window or through the walls, window I think is best as its not permanent.
3. Someone here must live near me with a welder and wants to help me out.. I really hope someone does live near central NJ. but I doubt it..
Really, what I need to weld so far that I found is one body mount on the frame needs to be reinforced, the body mounts on the body in 2 spots need to be redone or reinforced on the drivers side and the drivers sid floorpan may need to be remove alltogether and a panel welded in.
So will a 110v machine at least do the job, speed isnt as important as actually doing it. I can live with being able to weld for 5 minutes then waiting ahalf hour to cool.
The only other option is I need to go to the shop I work for and borrow thier welder-issue is its in a bay and the shop is always busy and I cant take up the bay really.
My other idea was to take heavy gauge sheetmetal and remove asmuch rust as possible and coat it, then to use self tapping screws and put the metal in or use heavy construction adhesive in the non critical areas. This would cut down on any welding I need to do and save me the hassle of welding. However I dont think it would be nearly as strong as I imagine vs welding..
Last edited by CJM; Feb 3, 2008 at 06:02 AM.
#2
that hobart should do it ok, if it was a 140 it would be better. the 125 will weld 3/16" pretty easy, so should weld on a frame ok. the only problem is welding sheet metal, you'll probably burn through it until you get the hang of it.
#4
Well we shall see. I just removed about 80% of the rust. 2 body mounts, and god only knows on the frame cause i cant see much.
800 bucks for a rust bucket, shoulda just waited on here and drove to get one..
800 bucks for a rust bucket, shoulda just waited on here and drove to get one..
#5
dudde it might look bleek but 800 for a gen 1 is good...you need a parts truck is all just wait...when it warms up a little tlc goes along way.... i have my old 94 that 2 deer ran into me that im getting some used tires for and cant wait to wrench on in the spring...
Last edited by bigt; Feb 3, 2008 at 12:05 PM.
#6
Well, rust is the big thing, this truck tbh would be a better donor truck. I need to find a welder i can use and be happy with, cause right now 2 of the mounts are really bad and one is iffy.. I aint even taken it off the frame yet and cant wait to see what I find.
WHat I need is a 110v a/c welder that will do the job, maybe take more time but do it. I dont care if i have to do multiple passes, clean up the job or such either.
WHat I need is a 110v a/c welder that will do the job, maybe take more time but do it. I dont care if i have to do multiple passes, clean up the job or such either.
#7
yup i got a nice little lincoln 110v works good...just tack.... im still learningmyself and when spring hits us im going to tackkle my old daily driver that 2 deer ran into the side of and fix the rear door and body work ....if you take your time and like you said clean up the welds we shoudl be fine.. i would buy a 120v welder or bourgh one
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