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Transafrica over the west, 20`000km, with a Land Cruiser 200

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Old 02-19-2013, 03:06 AM
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It is a custom build tank build from a german company. www.dlkunststofftechnik.de

I have to use each inch of space - and this looked as the best solution as water storage system.







http://transafrica2012.blogspot.com/...nach-mass.html

It was much cheaper than the custom made stainless steel tanks - who are usually used here.

Since the tank is segregated from the central tunnel - there was again an additional lateral stop.
Old 02-19-2013, 08:30 AM
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I would love to do an extended trip like that one day. Convincing the misses would be hard though. Looks like it would be a blast though, and I would like to do one through more of a forest area. I love tree lands.
Old 02-19-2013, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Bone_Head_Offroading
I would like to do one through more of a forest area. I love tree lands.
There are many destinations which will lead you through beautiful forest areas - on all continents...

--------

Day 8 Samedy 17 November, no Man's Land - Nouakchott

At 6:10 we were awakened by a terrible wrong singing Müzein - grrr - because we have to get used to it.

At 9 clock it really took off with the customs clearance for departure from Morocco. It took 3.5 hrs, a nerve-wracking slow procedure. After all, you came into the conversation with other travelers, about faith and religion. Janine was pretty afraid about Gitte`s relaxed chatting about such a content..

We had been briefed perfect about the - no man's land - but we were so distracted, probably by parked and before moving cars - that we caught not the left lane.. But we saw suddenly the ominous black Mercedes you can read about on read several blogs.

Usually the local guys try to mislead you that way that you got stuck - and they help you for pretty much money. I road about 200 USD.

We made it, even though we were almost drowned twice in the deep sand. We don`t had drained the tire pressure, because we had heard that the left lane would be easy to make.

Without the power of the V8, we would probably have to use the first time the sand ladders...

It was the adventure route we drove - and the crank on the windscreen starts to grow and split rapidly.

We did not know if the whole windshield shatters soon - but now the crack dazzled directly where the viewing area extends - depending on the sunlight...

Then we reach the Mauritanian border - and a long long waiting line. A fixer (helpers) promised us that we would get past the long line, when we will use his service...

He kept his word - ran with Gitte a clearance point to the next. One wanted the phone number of her, another guy wants to marry her - she had a funny tour.
And in no time I was waved from the long queue and could drive up.

The fixer had excellent contacts - the border guards could hardly see into the car - and hey presto, we were with a small gratuity in Mauritania.

WTF - why there was no fixer for the Morocco checkout ....

(To say it clear - this was the only time a fixer was helpful. Later we mostly was on small borders - there are no helpers. And the 2nd time we use such a service - it was a waste of money and time.

It is like russian roulette - if you have a helper with good connections - the border police don't even check the inside of your car and you can proceed fast for a small amount of money- if you got a stupid guy - it just gets expensive.

I read all Transafrica blogs from the last 5 years i had found in english/german - and many in italian and french language - thats what i read - what matches our experiences - also when we just use that kind of Service two times.)

We went quickly - through an amazing szenery - giant sand dunes which sometimes starts obtain the streets again, yellow dunes, red dunes and spectacular landscapes - still hoping to be at Toyota at business time.

Mauritania appears to be really poor - we saw small huts and no electricity for miles around. The improved just short before we reach the capital.

Gitte fed the Navi with the coordinates of Toyota - we reached the place so around 17:30 - but it was already closed. One of the guards said, morning 8 clock it will open - on a sunday... And then someone walk by he said working at Toyota - and the windscreen would be in stock. We are curious ..

Now we feed the navigation unit again -with a campsite POI - directly at the beach and drove through the middle of the bustling city. Unlike in Morocco the police here is very relaxed, no speed control or other trouble - they just ask occasionally about our target - or right after the "Fiche"

Susi, our Garmin Nuvi GPS fitted with Track4Africa - leads us through the middle of - slums were now the wrong term. I would say a mix of luxury houses that were under construction, dilapidated barracks and an XXL garbage dump.

A route we was of course, incredibly out of place - where we were admired as one of the wonders of the world.

Apparently everything was built under the water table - because often big areas was under water - and we drive in many death ends..
After we sometime had to head back we reached something like the "beach road" - paved but with holes that required special attention.

We drove to a campsite on the sea. The guards at the entrance were little to inspire confidence - and wanted money for parking. We tried to explain to them that we want camping and could then navigate the terrain without money.

The houses looked pretty decayed, and we spontaneously decided - do not want to stay here. Gitte asked for a toilet - which did not exist anymore - and one of the residents pointed to a row of bushes ...

And the show goes on - on the way here, we were passed by a receipt with hotel logo. At the Sabah hotel we asked for camping - and found a nice spot.

Formally, one might say - that as long no one has camped -. The pool was empty and disfigured by a steel skeleton (maybe it was before even a indoor swimming pool), but at least we had the middle of the city a safe parking space - with beach access.

When we were still in setting up the camp, a funny guy popped up and offered us fish - we agreed - and a little bit later he came by with three fishes.

When he realized our puzzled look - he helped us with the preparation of the fish. An good lesson! When he finished we wrapped the fish in aluminum paper after we had it seasoned with salt and pepper.

We cooked rice and Asian sauce and ready was a delicious menu. It was gorgeous!

The evening was crowned with a delicious sundowner - of course with ice - something that we will enjoy from now probably only from our own freezer...

We filter the water when filling the tank - with a three-stage filter system (a coarse filter, activated carbon and a UV Spot) - so we could win drinking water out of a lake or river.
Inside of the water tank provides a silver mesh - that the water is conserved. We don`t want to know what the restaurants and bars do - for get clean water for ice....

----

A long line of cars on the border


Mines can hurt


Amazing desert


Searching the beach road..
Old 02-20-2013, 03:14 AM
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We had first the plan to enter Mali as south as possible - through Senegal and the Saraya - Kenieba Border.
But the News about the Keyes Area aren`t that bad as we start - but the news from Senegal was bad, most foreigners has to fight a lot of corruption and bribe szenarios - so we decide to enter Mali directly.

We had the plan to drive the route Matam-Keyes till we meet Christopher at Day 7. He told us that the route Kiffa-Keyes is extremly worse to drive - and more scenic. So we decide us for the adventure route - but too with a little bad taste in the mouth - because we will enter the zone deeper who isnt really save:



We read any news from Mali we can get - before we start, had contact with locals - and we know - that this image shows the current situation (November 2012) pretty well. The red line shows where we should not go - we did it - and you will see with the next days - that this was not the best idea..
Old 02-20-2013, 04:03 AM
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Be safe,this is the kind of stuff that scares me about overlanding.
Old 02-25-2013, 04:23 AM
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Day 9

Sunday, November 18 Nouakchott - Bushcamp

After a hearty breakfast we drove first to Toyota. Yes - the Toyota workshop was already open - they work too at sunday..
Unfortunately, there was no good news. A new windshield would not arrive before 60 days by boat and by plane 45 days.
And they told us - that they only would use original Toyota stuff, and not from the "Market".
I persisted immediately, and the guy from the reception said that these were cheap windshield "copy`s" from Taiwan available in the town. But they dont will fit not original stuff.
Not an easy decision..We know that we could possible end with a fully crashed and splattered windshield - when we don't do something. I would prefer a origin spare - but - better a copy than nothing.

Unfortunately it isn't easy to find an "market" when you don't know - what you search exactly. And we can`t talk to the locals, because of our missing french language skill.
So I proposed to address the nearest Toyota driver.. I drove slowly beside a Land Cruiser parked on the roadside, in which a man and a woman sat, and ran down my window.
It took a little bit to the driver ran down the window, we were eyed suspiciously at first. It needs some time to show him - that we want a new windscreen - but not want to go to the toyota workshop.
He pointed us back - in the direction of the toyota workshop.
Then we investigated one of these small workshops on the road and asked for a new windscreen. Several people helps to translate - and at the end we had an offer for replacing the windscreen inside of 3 hours.
After about 4 hours, where I oversaw the dismantling of each screw - we were ready to start again.

For shure - the windscreen copy just fits inside of the Land Cruiser 200.. But there are some cables who aren't used in the african version of this car. There are rain sensors, and some cables for the front heating who hasn't a part to plug in. Anyway - we got too the rainsensors to work ;-)

We decide to restock with fuel - and to drive some kilometers today. We need an half an hour with our "Mr Funnel" pre filter - it looks like the fuel quality is not the best. After that we both need a little break - and we decide spontaneous to go swimming in the sea - before we will start.
It was gorgeous - but an extreme side flow prevented deeper immersion in the water world, even if I was only up to their waists in the water, I had to fight with all my strength not to be aborted.
Then we headed to ride in the last 2-3 hours of sunshine a few KM. Through a really beautiful desert scenery...
At afternoon, short before the sun goes down we saw a track who seems to lead into the desert - and no visible signs of a village - so we decide to search for a wild camp there.

It was a pretty bad idea - it was very deep sand - and also with all difflocks engaged we got stuck soon. We lowered the air pressure - and had to dig the first time of this trip. Soon was able to follow the track further. Maybe 1.5 kilometers after leaving the road - we try to leave the track for setup our camp. We got stuck badly again. After some time we could reach the track again - and follows him some 100m`s again - before we try to break out again.

This time the sand was hard and carry our heavy weight. 50m beside of the track we settle our camp.
Today we cook steak and spaghetti with pesto rosso - yummy! It was hot, it is certainly not easy to sleep, I thought.

We was on the 2nd sundowner at night - inside of this beautiful desert scenery with near fullmoon - as we suddenly saw headlights on the big road.
This happens from time to time - but now - we saw that the lightbeam turns in our direction. Quickly we turn the camplight off - and wonders if we got detected.
The lightbeam gets closer to us - and we starts to hear too the engine. We were not surprised when we heard that this vehicle also gets stuck in the sand. The engine turns off - later too the light. But after 10 minutes - the engine starts again - the light was turned on - and the car comes closer. Again he seems to get stuck - we hear the engine on high revs - and the light who don't move anymore.
We recognize that this car will come closer - and - maybe because of us. We was there for 3 hours without any traffic. That this is a "normal" road where also the locals have to dig- we cant really believe.
If the car will keep on the track - he maybe dont see us - because we are out of the light beam - but - this night was very bright - we can see our own shadow because of the moon.
To make an emergency start - and leave back some of the camping equipment -was also not a good option. Too we know - that we will probably dig in soon again. So we decide to hide us behind the car.
The car passed the deep sand area - and hold maybe 50m before he would see our fresh made track. Then he moves again - and stops as we was there where we left the track. We moves behind the next side of the car and try to hide us. Now they're light don't blind us - we saw a pickup with 3 guys behind - saw silhouettes with turban and guns..

I think we dont have to tell you how we feel. Pure adrenaline ...

Again the car starts to move - 30m (again we keep to hide behind the car) - and then the pickup turns of the track heading directly to us.
Too late to drive away - to late for other options. We turns our flashlights on - point them to ourself - and keep the other hand in the air - and walk into the light beam of the car.
It was military, 5 times handshake for me, with the women they do not. All sides was obvious relief. They ask for a "fiche" (a document containing all the information about us, the destinations and the car).

They told as that it is dangerous to do wild camping currently in this area - and that we should look for locations in the sight distance of military or police.
But it would be ok to stay for the rest of the night.. Good for us, i`m not interested to drive at night - after some sundowners...

Then they drove away, stopped after 200m and called for colleagues. We assume that we was surrounded from some guys - before the car came closer - the guys are clever... I guess we would have been much more relaxed, if we had not been so close to Mali - and know before - that this area isn't really safe.

Then we went to bed - and slept blissfully.

We don't know how they know where we are, how they recognize that we are there. And our language skills don't allows to ask.... The desert is so beautiful! We will revisit Morocco and Mauritania soon - an dedicated desert trip

------------

Our Camp at morning, before we start to replace our windscreen



6 guys worked on our car



Do we have mentioned - how beautiful the desert is?






Our camp - we thought a quiet night will start...
Old 03-04-2013, 08:52 AM
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Day 10 Monday, Bush Camp - Bush Camp (Kiffa)

Today we experienced a true magic landscape. Desert, mountains, green grassy hills like we know them from pictures from Mongolia, green oases with palm trees and agricultural areas - and then again a kind of savannah.
The last two days but also had another side. We call it the graveyard route - we have certainly seen more than 100 dead animals on the roadside: goats, donkeys, camels and dogs.
We guessed that the animals gets killed at night - because we see that the locals also try to drive around the animals on the street.
The landscape was too full of butterflies - unfortunately some died here on our car.
We saw again some Police and Customs Stops - but we all experienced positive. Some we have run over - when the uniformed men were not on the road - we are certainly not waiting on the roadside on it.
In Kiffa we tanked again our last mautetanischen toads. The fuel costs here between 1:14 to 1:16 swiss francs a liter. Since Marietania the car have to handle high sulfur diesel.
In Kiffa we chose the direct route to Kayes, Senegal yes we have missed.. We have heard too many criticisms about corruption and patronizing of tourists. That stuff we will probably have soon enough.
We have missed the regular start of the route - at the airport and drove along on a very bad dirt road - and then held on to the general direction of the road.
We found a horrible corrugated road (we named it road because she was pretty wide) - the one you can drive either 25km/h or 90 km / h. Later came a passage where a road currently being built - and we made good progress. And then came the area where the road ended.
Here again were 3 km rolled sand - with deep sandy passages. We came flying at 100, were slowed by the deep sand at 70-60 - and accelerated again. Without our 278 horse power - we got stuck often i guess.
And then there was just a small track. The track divide into some indistict tracks - and after a while these tracks also disappeared.
To drive real "off road" woahh - that was`nt planned at this early part of our trip. We checked our GPS Sources - and we should be near the track. We drive to the area where a track should be - but nothing. Also today we have no idea - if this is a normal experience, or if we got lost. We just know that we should cross Kankossa... But we never see it.
Good that we have enough fuel - we startet with near 280 liter fuel and carry too enough food and water. Without that - and without the GPS Tracker - it would be an bad area for a breakdown..
We discovered a river which we now have to follow. The GPS Sources dont shows us, if we are on the right side.
Our camp we set right on the river - gorgeous idyllic. It began to get dark - and the first swarms of mosquitoes got to work while we were building our camp. We decide to use our full equipment, the awning and also to use the side parts - to build a tent.
Unfortunately, our camp was discovered. Apparently, a small village is near. We looked like we were being watched, from a distance. We read in other africa travel blogs that you should ask the village chief after the permission to camp in order to avoid problems. But - we were already late, want to cook, and don`t wants to get being eaten by mosquitoes.
So we got inside of the tent, i waved them before i enter the tent.
While we were on to cook (inside of the tent), two men walked close by at the tent. I shouted them a "bon soire", but they ignore us. Probably it was rude to retreat into the tent. But we were not more "bothered" - neither the locals nor the mosquitoes ...
This time we had also built the back wall in the Marquee - and a large tarpaulin on the floor - and we mentioned safe from mosquitoes. That's what we were - only small flies and spiders found their way into "tent".
We feel very relaxed. If the residents have a problem with us, they will show us. We do not feel unwell in Mauritania. The people are friendly, but also very curious. During refueling a big crowd was around us. We are glad that here the people are to shy for that. Then we cant speak french - no way to talk.
The night was hot - because the back wall covered a side window. Luckily we had planned a fan - and he rolled around enough air. Not very silent - but the air feels colder.
The mosquitoes spoil the idyll considerably - only in the tent it is safe. Fortunately, we have planned something. So we could use our folding toilet for the first time - inside of the tent.

------

On the way to Kiffa


The waste is a problem here


And amazing scenery!




Our camp
Old 03-08-2013, 04:59 AM
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Day 11 Tuesday 20 November

Bushcamp (Kiffa) – Bushcamp (Mali) 150km

Today, we were awakened by noises. On the other side of the river a big hord of cows arrives - for drinking. And also on our side of the river a herd of goats followed also by cows starts to surround us.

A beautiful place!

We don't see any people, and enjoy a rich breakfast.
We always have 2 jam, honey, ham, salami, cheese and liverwurst on offer, and later even Nutella. For the tome we cant get fresh bread locally we have packaged pumpernickel bread, which is "fresh" for several months.

Then we try to hit the track again, and hold us in the viewing distance to the river. After a while the river ends - or - went to the other side - and we navigate again just in the direction of mali.
After an hour of driving through an sandy subsoil - mixed with bushes and trees we seems to have found "the track":



Unfortunately everything is here "the track" and after a short while following some traces - we are "lost" again. Sometimes the sand was deeper - but nothing we can't handle. The power of the V8 saved us several times. Still the necessary modicum of power in reserve. We enjoyed it to drive offroad, even though we would prefer that to a subsequent, less sensitive region.
The scenery was still varied and gorgeous. We drove straight through small villages - all smiling faces and friendly wave.
We drove across country and try to follow the singletracks we found. We got lost several times miserably and had to go back longer passages. We switched to the satellite view "Bing hybrid" on our iPad - and try to hold in direction of Mali. Our problem is - we don't have an idea - where there is a border crossing in the middle of nowhere - where we can enter Mali in a legal way.
After a while we found a village with was a bit bigger, and we ask after the correct way. They "think" smaller - and lead us to tracks who was more for bikes than for us - again we had to go back. Again we ask - and he show us the way who has a dead end (for cars). Now we ignore him and try to follow the borderline on the navigation system - and found a track who was really a track.
In the next Village we ask "Mali" and they point us to a house with a small flag. We have found the Mauritian-Border! Compared to our GPS we are miles away. It was easy, we got our stamps and could leave. We ask for the direction, and the border crew told us, that a bike will lead us the way.
After some minutes a guy arrives with his bike, and try to lead us the way. We had to go back several times, because he wants to drive ways where the trees or environment don't had the space for a car. After a funny 5min trip the guy stopped and ask for money. We have used up the the local currency - and decide to try it without his help.
Again it starts to get a little nightmare - because we follow single-tracks who ends in some villages - and had to go back. The locals couldn't help us really, they show us the direction they would walk - not a way who is possible to drive. But they are very friendly - and a bit shy. They live in small straw huts - the villages has mostly only 3-4 of them - they are really small. Here we see a part of africa - who the locals don't have phones, energy, water.. In the bigger villages before - they had solar-modules - and some of the locals walk with earphones around.
Later one of the traces gets better - and in a village we ask again for the direction to mali, and the guy told us, that we had to do our "formalities". Glad that we ask for the way, and not just passed by ;-)
The guy just could talk french, but he was able to show us, that we have to wait. After 15 minutes a guy on a motorbike arrives with civilian clothing. He ask for the papers and we do the paperwork in a small shack.
I want to avoid the use of the carnet in mali, because of safety issues - and so we dont show it. The border crew sold us a temporary import paper. They want CFA - what we dont have. We offer them USD, they ask for Euro
Normally we had to pay 8 Euro - but we just had a 5 Euro note and some coins. The coins they dont want - and they sell us the Paper for 5 Euro. We hope the don't have problems with that afterwards.After a short view inside of the car we could pass.
Unfortunately it was evening in the meantime - mosquito-time- and while they had looked into the car, a lot of Mosquitos was able to enter the car. Unbelievable how many was inside of the car, we killed over 20 of them. Bad timing with our Border crossing, we loosed to much time during the day
After the border crossing the "good track" dont lead in the direction we want - and again we follow some better traces. It get dark quickly - and we don't have a place to camp, and we loose the traces several times. The good stuff was - because we drive with light - the mosquito heads to the windshield - and was easy to kill.
Now in the dark, we see many open fires - it appears that we drive in a much more crowded area - we decide to go back, follow our own trace - and to look for a place to camp. Because we don't see much, we park just 20m away from the track. As we get out the mosquitos dont gives us a relaxed time - and we eat inside - and go sleeping. Again we kills a high number of mosquitos - we search them with our flashlight - every night.
We have to setup our camp earlier in the day in the feature! Lesson learned?

------------

Proud to had found an track


Loose again any traces


One of the bigger Villages


Termites



Last edited by 4x4tripping; 03-08-2013 at 05:00 AM.
Old 03-08-2013, 05:47 AM
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Truly fascinating....stay safe.

Thanks for sharing
Old 03-13-2013, 06:30 AM
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Tag 12 Bushcamp (Border) – Bushcamp ca 150km

We started without breakfast - still too many mosquitoes. After the sunrise, you have to wait a while, before the mosquitoes disappeared. It was around half past 9, as we make a break, a quick wash and a small breakfast. We saw again beautiful villages and a szenic environment. Again we got lost a few times, but after we had agreed that we always follow the larger track and neglecting our desired direction, we arrived late in the morning on a tar road and a short time later Kayes - a big city in the west of Mali.

In Mali, you have to watch these Speedbumps in the villages they can break your car and are sometimes difficult to detect. They often start a lot before the village.

In Kayes we investigated for an ATM, then we bugged the tanking-guys with our pre-filter tank. 120Liter Diesel fit into the tank, costing about 1.20 per liter.

During refueling, a man came to us and tried to explain something in French. When he saw that it did not, he tried it with bad English. In Djema yesterday were two Frenchmen had been kidnapped and that I should urgently call the embassy, ​​for the clarification of the security situation.

Later we found this information later too at the Internet: NewsPaper: Kidnappig in Djema Link

I thanked him warmly. Now nodded also the guys from the gas station - kiddnapping, french, near Keyes.. Unfortunately, the incident was on our route.

We had see a chance to get some lost hours back, when we use the direct way between Keyes and Bamako.. Now this seems too dangerous - and we went back to our "original planned" Route - staying south as possible.

Therefore the small mali border crossing don`t could give us all necessary stamps - we had to look for the police and customs here in Keyes. According to our travel guide (book) the Customs was at the train station. Once again my my non-existent French skill was not helpful. But one guy took a bike and lead us through the city. We was at the custom where the people said that everything is ok, then the man lead us to the "special police". They had to stamp our temporary importpapers - and we had to fill a "fiche". Finieshed - all people are very friendly - no corruption

then the man accompanied us back out and asked whether we eat or just want to depart directly. Gitte and I looked at each. We had to discuss the news, maybe had to connect with the embassy - to look for the route details. So we answered, that we want to eat first.

Again he drive ahead and bring us to a restaurant with wifi, next to the bridge where the track Kayes - Djema - Bamako went off. Our French was not good enough to clarify the security situation, but far we understand the police and custom guys - we should use that route - but don`t stop whatever happen.

During the meal, we contacted the Swiss embassy in Bamako - they said we should simply stand where we are. We cant wait - but i dont try to discuss it with the embassy. We opted for the originally planned route - preferably south of Mali. We also found some Informations about the kidnapping at the Internet. Shure we know that the red line marks the higher risk area - but no one had thought that they will kidnapp that many kilometers outside of the "nord-Mali" area.

We drove in direction of Bafoulabe to a river, which we know we had to use a ferry (reported by Tracks4afrika). We thought that it will be better to cross the river before we look for a wildcamp spot for security reasons. We reached the River and had to wait about 45 minutes until the ferry showed up. We got much attention - not perfect when everyone knows - that we had to rest soon.
The ferry give us a ticket for 4000 CFA (about 7 CHF). Our smallest bank note was 5000, it was not easy to get the exchange money - but finally I succeeded. It was determined the "tarif touristique"...
At we reach the other side it was dark - and a bigger village, no chance to find a wildcamp spot here - and we followed a road till the Navi said, turn left.
We stood in front of a railway bridge with a red "one way" street sign. We see a light on it - something comes in our direction. So i stopped to watch if a crossing will be possible soon. Fortunately i read many travelblogs - and know that others had also used such bridges - but i don`t had an idea how legal it is.
The "street" was about 20m wide and just a wide dirttrack. Both sides of the street was lined with small huts and shacks. We see some oil drums used as fireplace. A gui with a flashlight in the hand walked in our direction. It was dark, no idea if he is armed, if he is an official or whatever. It may sounds a bit crazy, that we feel pretty safe in this szenery - who could also be a part of the shooter crysis at night (pretty scaring).

I opened the window and the man try to comunicate in french. Good try. But he point to the other direction - and fortunately he could also some english words.

He asked if we want to drive. We answered: of course, if that is possible.. He said yes, and pointed how we should do it - one tire side between the rails. It looks like i can took also the rails between our tyres, the Land Cruiser is more wide, than most of the local cars.

But no matter - we just drove across on the bridge and continue into the night.



continue into the night. I had to finish the entry about this day (and more pictures) another time

--- to be continued ----

Last edited by 4x4tripping; 03-13-2013 at 06:41 AM.
Old 03-15-2013, 03:22 AM
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Day 12 Part II

Unfortunately it was dark - and again we had no wildcamp spot. We followed a wide dirt track which was very very dusty. Each vehicle load a lot of dirt on the people who walked or live along the street. We try to make pictures - but - to dusty and with the flashlight you just see nothing on them. We drive Kilometers on Kilometers - try to use tracks who branched off from the road - but anytime there was a field and some hats… So we stopped 2m next to the dirttrack - and try to avoid noise and light. There are still people driving bicycle on the track - better not to get some attention. We eat each a fish tin - and go sleeping.

We are sill near of the potentially risky zone - to far north - but our car was not so visible like you may guess with our 2m distance from the track - so we feel pretty safe.

Mali is a beautiful country - we got some good pictures during the day











Old 04-11-2013, 12:44 AM
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Sorry for the break, we was on holidays...

Day 13 - Mali - the Sleeping Camel

By kidnapping the day before we were perhaps not quite as relaxed as ever otherwise - and quickly decided to head towards Bamako.

The track was pretty bad - 200m asphalt again potholes - then washboard track, which we were able to partially take highway speeds (150 km/h), then 200m asphalt - very alternately.

Generally the AHC suspension could handle weak to medium washboard tracks pretty well, even if we're traveling slower. In heavy washboard tracks helps us only one thing: speed.

But the landscape compensates one for all! Mali's beautiful. In our brief stops we always discover beautiful colorful birds - for ornithologists there are a lot of food.

At one Peage / Roadblock many of my answers were not satisfactory - and the police officer must have thought - he is able to steal some of our money... We had to park the car and go with our papers in a small house - where we were tested for the first time in detail. After a long 15 minutes in a very hot room, the officials came to the insight that there is nothing they could use against us, and we could continue.
They dont ask for money! It was just expected that you give something, we suppose - but we knew that we all need it, had insurance, Passavant (of police stamped & Gendarmerie) - Visa - and would not a second occurred to me - is money in the take hand.

Then we came to the suburban area of ​​Bamako - one of the larger city on our trip - at least in Africa.

They drive quite civilized and relaxed here - no big honking - but they love to push here - what I was also placed in the cradle ...

We fed Susi (our GPS) with the aim of "the sleeping camel" - one of "the" well know location for Overlanders on our route.
Right in town, but on the quieter side of the river lies the diplomatic quarter - and right next to the German embassy, ​​the "Sleeping Camel" located, protected by high walls. The guards waved us - and opened the gates - and we were on a spacious patio.
The Sleeping Camel is a restaurant and hotel - you can camp inside for a small feee. Earlier here, the Overlander were stacked - today we were the only ones.

We negotiated briefly the most important - our pitch - put up our camp and washed first again the laundry because the laundry service today would not have been possible. Then we sat in the restaurant - in a comfortable sofa - for the first beer in Africa - Castell beer.

Quickly found a cozy round - as it turned out, almost all present Journalist, along with some employees of NGOs and UNESCO. Overlander they have seen for some time no more - and the present appreciated the situation in Bamako also very unstalbil. Regular demonstrations there - and the situation between the military and government is also very "fickle".

We also learned that the Overlander were kidnapped at 25.11.2011 from a restaurant in Timbuktu, had previously camped in the Sleeping Camel a few days. In the attack, a German was shot when he tried to get his drugs from his room. (Here you can get more information) His wife was able to hide - and could return to the Sleeping Camel later. Truly a tragic incident!

Why these people were so far in the north of Mali, although the area was already pretty dangerous? We can only guess - that this country made an impression to be secure and peaceful - and these travelers thought - why should there be different from here?

Unfortunately warn our EDA, the Foreign Ministry and other institutions rather quickly - and is it hard to overland travelers - know what is dangerous and what is not now. For almost every country on our Trans-Africa is indeed finally a travel warning - and if you can read it here on the blog - we have survived.

Anyway - we're not here to throw stones, we sit it himself in a glass house uhhh Sleeping Camel - and are from the perspective of the overall traveling faction - itself also received far too much of a risk ... And yes - we originally wanted to avoid Keyes and are gone through ...

Unfortunately, the "fast" internet is not as fast, so that we can upload images on a larger scale.

We hope tomorrow to be able to increase our supplies before heading towards Burkina Faso.

----------------------













Old 04-11-2013, 07:59 AM
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Stay safe, and thanks for updating us on your travels.

Good luck
Old 04-26-2013, 12:12 AM
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Day 14, Friday, November 23, Sleeping Camel (Mali) to bush camp (Burkina Faso) about 500km

Usually we are at 07:00 clock already wonderfully well rested, because we're leaving early to bed. Today was different, it was late at night a cozy round that has been sitting together. Most of those present were journalists, employees of NGO's or Unesco.
We were very busy with photos and the blog, but we still have something integrated. But no Overlander there. And those present were also the situation in Bamako itself politically unstable - and looked around for options to be able to leave.

We were not unhappy that our travel plan did not provide for longer stay.
The Sleeping Camel let us camp and cook for themselves (we had thawed meat that had to be used) - and the crew was very nice.
Until we had tanked water and were prepared to travel, it was been 10 clock.
We again enjoyed a gas station with the addition of filters - and drove to the border. In Sikasso, we investigated the gendarmerie to stamp our exit, but that was not necessary. We drove to the border and quickly left the country for an entry in the thick book.

On the side of Burkina Faso, the customs officials were friendly, once chased off their own employees, so we had a seat and helped us with the paperwork.
There was a long line of local peoples who wait for crossing the border. We was glad that they gave us a vip handling - but it does not feel right.
Then we went to the gendarmerie, the first time doubted the company car. Because i dont want to use the carnet, i have to use the normal car papers, where my name isnt listet, because it is a company car.

They barely cant speak english, we cant speak french - but the policeman tell us, that we have to wait one hour (in africa this can be everything) for the chief. I thought that he dont know if i can legally drive this car, because my name wasn't listened.
I show him the (multilingual) authorization which was unfortunately signed by myself (my own company). The officer shook his head.
Then i show him the Apostille (it is a international super legalisation) where is noted that i own the company and that i can use that car.
Lesson learned: when you not use your own car it is easier to use the "Carnet de Passage". With the carnet (which anyways is issued to the driver) never want to see additional papers about the car.
That Apostille paper saved us, and we could proceed.

We was happy that we had passed the border, as we see a police checkpoint after 500m from the border, with a stop sign. No policeman was on the road - so we did what we usually did - just passing through.
This time our behavior wasn't a good idea. All people on the road showed us that we has to turn back. As we drove back a angry crying Policeman was waiting on the street.
He was really angry, and shouted to me till i was in the hut what was a small police station.
Again our stuff has to be written in a the thick book, now the third time already - somehow completely pointlessly.
Then they want to give us a fine, because we ignored a stop sign. Not a bribe, they took out they book for writing a ticket. They told me that it will cost 11 USD. That was ok for me, my fault - and i will get a receipt.
But my girlfriend started to discuss that we have not seen the stop sign, and grudged him a pair of eyes spreads her blue eyes.
We could proceed without to pay. Another lesson learned: A pretty blonde co-driver with blue eyes - is helpful here.

Then we drove a few kilometers in Burkina Faso, as we much too late when we turned once again to a wild bush camp.
Here on the border of the villages are close together and it was not as easy as before to find a nice spot.
But we find a spot, quite near the road but not visible - and no locals around.
There we made mashed potatoes with a thick juicy steak - life is sooo beautiful!

------------------






Last edited by 4x4tripping; 04-26-2013 at 12:23 AM.
Old 05-03-2013, 02:42 AM
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Day 15 Saturday, November 24, Bush Camp - Bush Camp about 550km

Today we have Burkina Faso crosses for the most part. The scenic surroundings was now similar to Mali and not so varied.
The beautiful colorful birds that we have estimated in Mali as we see here not so - but here we were now indeed more onroad. We want to spend two days in a nationalpark here and also toying with the idea to spend a few days with beach holiday in Benin. Therefore we push a bit...
But at first we have to restock our freezer and with meat and so on - therefore we visit the center of Ouagadougou.
We fed Susi (Garin navigation with Tracks4Africa) with the search therm "Market", and let us plumb directly into the city center.
That area was - like in any maincapital - heavily crowded. We see some Parking-Slots, there was also an Guard walking around. We showed him that he should look for our car with special attention.
Some stuff still work without talking :-)
After a save parking place was organized, we strolled surrounded by a bunch of people on the market. Two guys accompanied us, which we could not got rid off, at least with my knowledge of French.
Unfortunately, the women on the market far too intrusive to stroll there in peace, and the prices were pretty steep.
I know how such a market feels like, but for my Girlfriend it was to much action. Maybe I should have start with a smaller market for her.
Once you sign up for something interested, this was called loud - and the ladies of the neighboring stands also surround us, and we could negotiate the price. For the buyer, not so bad - you know, the competition lowers prices. I know
Nevertheless, we auctioned after much negotiating two large cauliflower heads.
But it was an impressive amount of different types of vegetables. The exotic stuff was more expensive than in switzerland.

Then we went to the Marina, equivalent to a European department store. There was everything that it is with us. A small glass of Nutella for converted for 10 Swiss-Francs. It really gave everything, but also to violent prices.
We bought wine, Amarula, a bottle of whiskey and a lot of meat for the freezer.
When we left fully packed the store, we were just glad that we had help - the two guys had wait there.
What for a bad feeling to walk the main street relaxed, while two black boys carry all the stuff. Stuff from a shop where the locals dont can buy, because way to expensive.

Anyway, it was way to hot to and to much stuff to carry it by ourself. They were glad for the tip, and we were first out of the city before we stowed the purchases at their destination in the car, and treated ourselves to a break.

Then we drove further out of the suburban area out back and looked for a bush camp.
We found the departure of a single track on an agricultural area - unfortunately, in a good listening position to the road.
We drove from farm field to farm field - the individual regions were separated by bushes - but did not find the optimal coverage was concerned what road noise and visual protection.
During the meal we noticed noise, anything stalked slowly. It was become dark, as we heard a ast crack close by - something "big" was near.

We cleared everything first back into place - there are too many reports where travelers had lost their equipment to some predatory monkeys..

But also after that we dont feel comfortable at these place - and we decide to leave also when it was completely dark now. Hoped for a quieter place to sleep, because the trucks do a significant source of noise when crossing the potholed road

So we found a short time later at night once a good place for a bush camp. We use our thermal night vision camera for driving the last meters, to avoid to show our sleeping spot to others. To be honest - this helps only for to make the spot smaller - where the people know that there is a car. In the night you have no chance to see, how far away the next huts are....









Usually we don't often make pictures from peoples, but we asked this guy if we can do one


Last edited by 4x4tripping; 05-03-2013 at 02:45 AM.
Old 05-03-2013, 04:40 AM
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Thanks for sharing!!!

Be safe
Old 05-15-2013, 04:18 AM
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Day 16 November 25, Bush Camp - Bush Camp near Benin (200 km)

This morning we were already up at 6 clock and drove off without breakfast.

In Fada N `gourma we bought some bread, refueled again and got another 100` 000 CFA from an ATM.

Today we will drive into the Arli Nationalpark, to spend there some days.

We were looking forward to seeing huge animals. Even from the road we saw 2 monkeys bounce pass and drove to a half overgrown Dirttrack in the National Park. This was not an official entry point - that's why we expected something to see.

After an hour with no more to see as some stick insects, a spider XXL and different birds we discontinued the practice and drove back the bigger road to the National Park.

A major road should pass through the middle - and the national park, it should also be possible according to guide, to enter to Benin.

We drove on a pathetic Dirttrack through the National Park - i love offroad driving - but that was just a high material stress without great technical demands - and always looked for the animals.

We read that here are Lions, buffaloes, antelopes, hyenas, monkeys and elephants. But we saw none of that, though, we really took our time, to not miss anything.

Inside of the NP we saw small villages, with the usual animals walking around: chicken, small pigs, goats - and from time to time we cross an cyclist on the way to the next village.

Should we believe that here life also lions and elephants?

We followed an even worse Dirttrack again in the direction of the benin border - which was more difficult to pursue - and we reach several times a dead end of the path.

While following again an Singletrack (more made and used by bikes than for cars) we got a flat tyre - in the middle of nowhere. The last village we crossed long time ago, and we was far off the beaten path to find help.

In 20m distance we see a place which a bit more space around and we had a look to the damage. The tyre coat has a 10cm crack, nothing where our Tyre-repairkit would help.

To be honest: our fault. To drive single tracks by car is dangerous for the tyre. In the gras and bush you dont see - where is a root or stone formation, who is able to damage the tyre.

Not a good idea to plow through overgrown paths, with many branches and roots ...

Where were the jack and the tool again? We had everything necessary found by reading the manual - and went to work. Unfortunately, it was a soft sandy ground and the jack to lift the car just sink.. A board we did not have it and we thought already to take the MaxTrax as a base.
But we had also the lifting cushion, which was approved by 3.2to - for a front page this should be enough.
Unfortunately, the compressor was filling defect - and it cost valuable time until we were ever able to fill the lifting pad.
The Viair air compressor was unfortunately only expensive - but good for not much - but that's what happens if you do not pre-test the equipment properly.
After a while, and two-time deflation and the lifting cushion shift we were then so far - very slow and the tire came into the air.
We continued even after using the jack to support and won again a few inches in height - not even enough to be able to mount the new tires. A Hi-lift would now have been quite good, with a large board.
We stayed only digging a hole - to compensate for the low lift height. After 2 hours work the spare tire was mounted, and the defective wheel mounted on the rear of the car. I forget to say: it was damn hot, i did the work in my underpants.
For the first time we used the onboard shower afterwards that extensive - lovely!

It gets dark as we setup our camp on the place of repair.. A good steak, some rice and a hot chili sauce helps us to forget the hard work - yummiii!

Now, we sit outside, have opened a bottle of whine and enjoy the success that we are able to drive again early tomorrow!
Meanwhile, we have pleasant 25 degrees.

However, we dont think that we will see here any animals.

Finally, we camping here in "the hot zone" - and still see nothing. And inside of the Nationalpark are quite a few small villages - we really wonders how the lions here can co-exist with the villages and the pigs...

-------------

Driving single tracks:






A village in the background


Searching the track to Benin


A flat tyre
Old 05-15-2013, 03:00 PM
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Amazing trip guys... can't wait for the next chapter... Watch for the 2014 Calendar Photo Contest in August and post some pics pls.
Old 05-31-2013, 01:27 AM
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Day 17 Monday, November 26, Burkina Faso - Benin (Bush Camp - Bush Camp) approx 400km

This morning we were already happily expected by some big wasps that buzzed around the car. Therefore, we had only a quickly made tea, and then we fled...

Very carefully we now drove out of the national park - because we have now no more spare tire.

Originally we wanted to enter the country through the National Park to Benin - but without spare tyre it is to dangerous. Because of the National park opens in December there are no other cars around who could help us.

A new day, a new luck to see animals inside of the NP? No - animals here

We hope that we find someone who is able to repair the tyre. If not we have to flight in a new spare tyre, what is not a cheap way.

As we was back on the street we drove straight in direction of Benin. Every time we saw an tyre repair service the discussion starts if we should try to repair here, or later in Cotonou (the capital of Benin).

After 40km we reached the border of Benin. It was the first time they ask directly after the carnet, after the officials recognize that we don't speak french. Previously, nobody wanted to know anything about it.
Because Benin is one of the safest country on our trip, we had no problem to use the carnet here.

It is very confusing that you have to do three steps for each country in westafrica: You have to go to police, customs, immigration - and each time they wrote our Passport ID and Car Plate & Vin-Number together with our next travel-destination to a thick book

Benin is again very different landscape, the fauna here begins slowly into the jungle to go over, everything is overgrown. And since there are only paths where people are, it is difficult to wild camping . without to ask in a village.

The people were very nice and we also ransacked again a local market for edible things. The people were very nice and we also ransacked again a local market for edible things.

In the evening, after a refueling stop, we peered long after a bush camp - or even a dirt road branching off - but it was really difficult.
We thought about it, ask at one of the churches or the police when we discovered a gravel pit where we could settle down.

We cooked a delicious meal: a delicious steak and pasta all'arrabbiata.

Would cap off the evening with a nice campfire

-----------------------

Each liter fuel we filtered during our trip

It was pretty time consuming, we give a good tip each time





The most part of the "road" of this day looked like this:


You can visit our blog when you cant wait for an update: http://transafrica2012.blogspot.com/

Last edited by 4x4tripping; 05-31-2013 at 01:47 AM.
Old 07-11-2013, 07:54 AM
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Day 18, Benin

It was a sultry night - from now on we probably need our fans - because it's simply too hot otherwise.
The humidity here is pretty high, inland there is morning fog - and until noon the sun just manages to come through. It's beautiful - to go through this mist-shrouded hills - and experience as the sun comes through gradually.
The environment changed rapidly. Wayside is starting to show again restarants, bars and nightclubs - that look inviting. But with our travel behavior - we can not eat out or dance, and then keep an eye out in the parking lot after dark.

Unfortunately most parts of our roads today are extremely ugly potholed, like never before of that trip. To much concentration, to less enjoyment of the environment.

At the evening we reach Cotonou (the capital) and the sea again. Therefore everything need a cleanup - we - the clothes and the car - we decide to take a good 4 Star Hotel at the Beach (Marinara Hotel).

No matter what you touch - one is dusty now ... Expects a thick layer of dirt even behind the fuel filler flap ... Gradually, the dust also migrates into the interior. And the spare tire has be repaired - or replaced if necessary.

After a hot shower we want to go to the beach. The journalists in Bamako has raved about the beach in Benin - we feel almost obliged to take this picture right here.

According to Staff, the swimming is prohibited in the sea. We dont believe that - and went to the beach. The truth is, that the whole beach is full of waste - unfortunately too the water - so we go to swim in the pool.

The beach itself would be - really beautiful...









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