s_wall98

I've decided Im gonna go with either one of the following subs:
10w1v2-4 (http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...p?series_id=15)
or
12w1v2-4 (http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...p?series_id=16)

in the JL ported powerwedge box (http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_e...u=8&page_id=25)

This is where I need some help. Both speakers have the same wattage and are about $30 different in price. What speaker should I go with. I tend to think the 12" but would like to hear some expert advice.

Thanks

89macrunner

depends on what kinda music you like...they should both sound pretty good but...the 10" can be a little bit tighter but a 12" will be deeper and hit a bit harder...more surface area=more bass

bumpin will bump in im sure

s_wall98

Thats the thing, I listen to a little bit of everything...rock, rap, hiphop and a little country mixed in here and there. I hear what you're saying 89macrunner and have experienced it but dont know that it will be as evident with these speakers, with them being the same series and everything...I could totally be wrong though.

I was kinda wanting to hear bumpin's opinion too.
Anybody else?
Anybody have experience with a JL ported powerwedge?

Localmotion

they make nice boxes

my cousion has 2 12-w6 in a powerwedge box by JL..that thing is too loud. It makes my heart skip beats!


EDIT:

I would definately go with a w3 or higher.

It would suck to blow a sub. You can always turn the bass down if its too loud. 12W3 is perfect for all types of music

s_wall98

Yeah, I'd kinda like to go with a w3 but I'm wanting a ported box. I know the w3s will work in a ported box but I can hear the w1v2 at any JL dealer. The w3 i have to shop around for a box for. I know most dealers will have a box, but I dont think its gonna be the quality of the JL. That and the fact that when I start going bigger I tend to not want to stop.

ac808m

Take a look at what kind of other boxes are available. JL boxes are nice but $$$. 12 adds a little more thump if you can fit it. If you make your own you can put it anywhere and do a sealed/ported box. If I could have done it, I would have ported mine. Good choice with the JL

-Aaron

s_wall98

Thanks for all the replys guys, keep em coming.
I know what you're saying about looking around for boxes and have been, but locally haven't really found much that wouldnt cost more than the loaded powerwedge. Any ideas with cheap shipping off the net?

t100

i bought a box made for a l7 15 and within 2 weeks a blew my port completely out.. so i got a sheet of mdf board and made one built close to specs ported.. its so loud that my friends hear me coming down the road.. jl is a very good brand.. their amps are badass.. i woulnt get a w7 at all.. they seem to get super hot in the center and then bust a hole.. 1 10 would sound good, but if your wanting people to hear it outside i would suggest a 12 or 2 12s.. if you are good at cutting wood and agles and such make your own for alot less of the price.. if you build the box to specs and have the right amp you can beat alot of people with say 2 12s in a box bought from the store.. .. its all up to you though.. jls are one of the best brands around.. and they are very pricey.. my good friend has 2 13.5s in a jl box on a 800.1 jl audio mono block amp.. he blew out his back glass 2 days after i hooked it all up in his s-10.

Bumpin' Yota

Honestly, if you can honestly fit the 12 and afford it, go for it over the 10. Obviously the 12's box should be a bit larger than that of the 10 hence the space issue, the second issue being cost. I would run about 10%-25% more rms wattage to the subs than their RMS rating. Reason being the more current you have flowing through the coils, the faster the transient response of the sub and you have more headroom. A bigger amp costs more though. Also if you get close to that 25% over rms wattage you also run the risk of running too much current through the coil and melting the coil former glue...so exercize caution when going over recommended RMS values.


do not buy into the MYTH that a bigger driver, or a heavier driver, can't be "punchy" or play as high as a smaller lighter driver. Instead check out the inductance of the coil (the lower the better) to get an idea of that....

Bumpin' Yota

got pics/vids?

I can post a video of my front windshield flexing 1.5" and doing nothing. I can also post a vid of the tailgate of my second gen doing a good 2" salsa and the glass is just happy as a clam...lol

If the glass did break it wasn't from the subs but rather the rear glass not being installed properly from the factory... It takes a LOT more than even 4 12s with 10kW rms power to do that...

Bumpin' Yota

Not to be contradictory, but that is one of the bigger audio myths that really isnt true. In order for one sub to be more "punchy" than another sub, it must be more capable of playing the midbass frequencies. Midbass typically starts at about 80hz and goes to about 250hz... This is where that punchyness comes from.

Now the common theory is that a big heavy mms (moving mass) is going to be sloppy and incapable of moving quickly enough to produce good midbass, but this isn't the case. Instead look to the Inductance of the voice coil to determine this.

One little case in point is the 18" made by Aura sounds - the 1808 behomoeth that plays linearly up to 1500hz iirc. Most 8s cant play that high that accurately. Of course that's why that 18 costs 800+ bucks new!

And this explains WHY in much more detail than I really want to here...hehhe

http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/Tech...ooferSpeed.pdf

Turd Ferguson

I run a 10W3D2 (thats 2 ohm dvc) in a sealed box with the JL 250/1 sub amp.

I built the box myself, its a hair under 1 cubic foot internal volume.

I used to sell gear, and I told folks that told me they listened to all music etc to go with 10's. Fast enough for rock, jazz, etc, but low to do hiphop and D&B with decent ability. 12's were just loud, and short of going into the really expensive side, sacrifice sound quality for thump.

I will also advocate a W3 over the W1 model too.

Now, JL's boxes are built pretty well, but remember that a ported box won't go as low as sealed, and if thump is what you want, go sealed. Also, they tend to make noise from the air moving across the port and thats no bueno, either.

Jared

I'm surprised by all the W3 recommendations. Obviously if someone had money to burn, the w3 or w7 would be the way to go, but for a reasonable cost the w1v2 is a perfect solution. I also suggest you consider a sealed box. I know you said you want ported, but you also mentioned that you listen to a wide array of music. The sealed will be less boomy, but it will be much more controlled, and will simply sound better. If you want the boomy power of the 10", get a sealed 12. You will be able to get it in a nice small box and you will love the sound.

I personally go for the all around sound balance and performance over the annoying (in my opinion) bumpin, so I got a 10" over a 12" and use JL components all around with my Eclipse deck. So take my opinion with that in mind.

Turd Ferguson

Only reason I suggest the W3 is because his musical tastes won't likely be satisfied by a w1. Also, the box requirements IIRC are a bit more than the w3, so overall cargo size will be sacrificed... my .02.

89macrunner

now that i think about it you are correct bumpin...buttt my 12's defintiely hit the deep bass MUCH better than my 10 did..but maybe thats because its 5 times the power and in a ported box..haha

Jared

I totally agree with you, the W3 is FAR superior. It is also FAR more expensive. That's all I was trying to get accross. Rereading my post, I didn't really mean to bash you guys' suggestions so much... my bad.

The way I see the difference in subs is not just with the subs, but with the whole system in mind. If you go from a W1 to a W3, you now need more power to make it worthwhile. If you increase that power, you now need better components or more power to them. Just to make everything sound okay. So by upgrading from a W1 to W3, you now just added mucho $$$ to the equation. I had a blazer at one point that had 2 W3's, MB Quart components all around (before MBQuart sucked by being bought out by R. Fosgate), and the right amount of power to drive all of them, man that crap cost a fortune!!!

Turd Ferguson

Similar to my old season. MB Quarts on the corners, JL 10w3, Alpine, dynamat, Lanzar cheater amps, etc.

But never once have I run a capacitor. Haven't needed it. Well, my old Saturn coulda used one, but thats besides the point.

You are correct to a certain extent I think about upping the ante on the W3, but I can also say confidently that you can always turn the thing down

s_wall98

Thanks guys for all the replies, this thread really blew up.
As far as other people outside my car hearing me, I could really care less.
When I first thought about getting a new sub I planned on building a box but dont have anywhere to do it, and dont know if I want to start my box-building with a ported box, but who knows.
As far as going with a W3 I just dont know if I can afford it. I can get the 10 or 12w1v2 loaded box for just over $200.....maybe cheaper. If I go for a w3, id be buying a speaker, box, and eventually an amp.
Dont get me wrong, I know the w3 series is a much better speaker, just dont know if its in my price range. Im still looking into it though.
Now change my mind guys.

Turd Ferguson

Well, some things to consider:

If you have a buddy with a table saw, you can build a box real easy.

How big is your amp?

How loud do you want it?

W1's are great subs, they contain a lot of the tech from the bigger, badder JL subs. I went with a 2ohm DVC W3 so I could run it with lower power and not drain my battery as much. As luck would have it, I eventually DID upgrade to the JL 250/1 which was designed specifically with the w3 in mind.

IF you are gonna look at a box, I'd suggest a JL-designed box over a Q-Logic or other, simply because the quality of the JL box is top-notch, and the things are designed specifically for the sub. Generic boxes are just that. They work for sloppy subs like old Cerwin-Vegas but not for the JL's... the difference between a good box and a bad box is blowing the sub.

Bumpin' Yota

If you think that a CV stroker is a loose sloopy sub you are mistaken. Particularly when IASCA sound quality world finals was won using them a while back....

And a good box and a bad box is not necessarily a blown sub - most manufacturer's have REALLY toughened up their subs in an attempt to idiot proof them with all the DIY'ers out there. 9 times out of 10 a bad box will just sound like azz and have poor or no output...