Moving the axle 4 inches ahead.
#1
Moving the axle 4 inches ahead.
Okay, instread of using the kit from trail gear, or other companies, I've deiced to makle my own kit. I was windering if any of you guy have moved ur axle ahead like I want to. Im going to take flat metal, gussets and another piece of flat metal and make my front hanger. With this my front hanger is goin to be moved ahead 4 inches(better accent angle) for climbing. Any pics, anyone???
#2
I kind of have an idea of what you are trying to shoot for, sounds like you will still need to move your front spring shackle points on the frame forward of the stock mounts too unless you are using some alternative longer springs up front..Sounds like you will be extending the frame somewhat. I would suggest searching here: Pirate BB Toyota Folder Good luck, I am curious what it will look like...
#3
Contributing Member
4" is a lot.
I think one of your biggest hurdles will be the steering box and related links. But maybe you are going to run a full hydro setup.
I am also curious as to how you will handle the rear spring mounts... or as to what front springs you are planning to run.
I think one of your biggest hurdles will be the steering box and related links. But maybe you are going to run a full hydro setup.
I am also curious as to how you will handle the rear spring mounts... or as to what front springs you are planning to run.
#4
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Links and full hydro
Otherwise you have to extend the frame by 4" for the box and hangers (there goes the approach angle) and you have to move the shackles forward,
Regardless you have to move shocks, and cut the hell out of the body...
Otherwise you have to extend the frame by 4" for the box and hangers (there goes the approach angle) and you have to move the shackles forward,
Regardless you have to move shocks, and cut the hell out of the body...
#5
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Location: SouthWest Littleton, Colorado
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How about not moving the axle, but shorten your nose. Bring the front back to the wheels. Maybe not the whole nose but the frame, bumper, lower valance. Then go links and Hydro.
#7
Contributing Member
With 4", I think you'll be out of the straight part of the frame for the rear mount on the front springs.
As stated, you'd really be wasting time and money on leafs. Links will get you there, and much easier.
You will likely need to go with a reverse pitman box, like a scout II set up.
This could cost you 3x more than the TG set up, unless you find some great used stuff for a killer deal.
Good luck.
As stated, you'd really be wasting time and money on leafs. Links will get you there, and much easier.
You will likely need to go with a reverse pitman box, like a scout II set up.
This could cost you 3x more than the TG set up, unless you find some great used stuff for a killer deal.
Good luck.
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#8
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With 4", I think you'll be out of the straight part of the frame for the rear mount on the front springs.
As stated, you'd really be wasting time and money on leafs. Links will get you there, and much easier.
You will likely need to go with a reverse pitman box, like a scout II set up.
This could cost you 3x more than the TG set up, unless you find some great used stuff for a killer deal.
Good luck.
As stated, you'd really be wasting time and money on leafs. Links will get you there, and much easier.
You will likely need to go with a reverse pitman box, like a scout II set up.
This could cost you 3x more than the TG set up, unless you find some great used stuff for a killer deal.
Good luck.
#9
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
Mine is about 2.75" forward from stock (2" from the stock rear spring swap and 3/4" from the new spring hanger):
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ringHangerDrop
It works very nice.
To go farther forward, you would need to push the spring hanger out in front of the frame (or redrill the spring perches) and also you would need to push the steering box out through the front body mount to keep the tie rod and drag link from hitting.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ringHangerDrop
It works very nice.
To go farther forward, you would need to push the spring hanger out in front of the frame (or redrill the spring perches) and also you would need to push the steering box out through the front body mount to keep the tie rod and drag link from hitting.
Last edited by 4Crawler; 02-18-2008 at 06:12 AM.
#10
Registered User
I moved my PS box about 2-3" forward. Had to hack up the front body mout. Its not very pretty but it works. Im running Toyota rear springs in the front which move the axle 2-3" forward. Combine this with re-drilling your perches 1" and you could get very close to your 4". Ive got an approach angle of about 75-80 degrees. Thats with 37s. I should have some pics up very soon.
#13
Yea, the steering box is going to have to come out through the body. This summer once I get all the money saved and have everything compleat to put onto the truck Ill show you guys what Im talking about w/the moving ahead part. A few of my buddies just did it and its been working out great. Looks kinda funny though before they built their front bumpers.
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