IFS differential sucks....300 miles and it's broke again
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Mooresville (Lake Norman) NC
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
IFS differential sucks....300 miles and it's broke again
I got a new front diff from Randy Rack and Pinion. I drained the diff after 300 miles to find alot of metal flakes. Did I mention that it pulls hard to the left in 4wd. It makes a clicking sound (like a broken CV) but it comes from the differential. It feels like I have a locker and a broken passenger axle shaft. Drive axles are in good shape. The 4wd takes awile to disengage and my right front tire barks when engaged, followed by a loud CLUNK when it disengages. Could this be a problem with the intermediate shaft or the ADD? I am stumped.........
I want a SAS, but have no job. Oh well looks like I'll be using 2wd more now
Any tips or ideas about this damn diff.
I want a SAS, but have no job. Oh well looks like I'll be using 2wd more now
Any tips or ideas about this damn diff.
#2
Registered User
Are you missing teeth?
Was it broken in properly?
I had some shavings when I drained at 500 miles after breaking in the diffs, but nothing to be alarmed about.
Was it broken in properly?
I had some shavings when I drained at 500 miles after breaking in the diffs, but nothing to be alarmed about.
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Columbia, MO
Posts: 990
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
here is what i would do:
take a can of carb cleaner and get all of the metal shavings out of everything including the intermediate shaft and the ADD. then refill it with some good mobil 1 synthetic
i had a problem with my 4wd pulling after i changed a cv axle. be sure the spindle is clear of any dirt and grime, and be sure to grease up the stub shaft when you insert it into the spindle.
check your cv joints for proper range of motion and make sure they dont bind, i would also remove the boot clamps and check to see if they are properly greased if i felt any resistance
take a can of carb cleaner and get all of the metal shavings out of everything including the intermediate shaft and the ADD. then refill it with some good mobil 1 synthetic
i had a problem with my 4wd pulling after i changed a cv axle. be sure the spindle is clear of any dirt and grime, and be sure to grease up the stub shaft when you insert it into the spindle.
check your cv joints for proper range of motion and make sure they dont bind, i would also remove the boot clamps and check to see if they are properly greased if i felt any resistance
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Conyers, GA
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey instead of rebuilding it next time, do a SAS. It's worth the time and money. I swear you can do it for under a grand. I live in Atlanta and I could sell you an axle. I have a D-44 waggy and also a Yota axle. Either of which would run $200.00. Let me know, NC isn't far from here and my friends rig is almost done and we'll be going to Tellico on a monthly basis starting Feb. I could meet you with an axle.
Last edited by lcopelan22; 01-06-2004 at 07:15 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
XtraCab
Solid Axle Swaps, All Years
18
04-12-2020 05:25 AM
jasonty
Pre 84 Trucks (Build-Up Section)
41
12-23-2018 01:00 PM
WTB[PacSoWest]: Looking for a electric locking differential motor/ actuator
AaronM
Items Wanted
0
07-08-2015 07:15 PM