ravencr

I've talked recently with two shops that build aluminum tanks, and they are both quoting roughly $350-$400 using my stock fuel sending unit. I think I'm going to talk with my local fab shop also to see what they say, because then I'd only have a couple of days of down time, rather than a couple of weeks if I mail the sending unit off, which seems to be the only real way to make it perfect.

Chris

sportJr

It has been a while, but the tank is now made, just ordered the liner from eastwood.com. It ended up being 33x18x 7 sloping down to 8 deep. Made mine from 18 gauge steel, welded seams. Tapped it with a piece of 1.5 inch black iron pipe and a piece of 1/2 inch pipe in the front end for the gas fill and relief point. The fuel pump will be in the rear. Very little modifications need to be done with it. Just cut the support arm, trim down both tubes and hook the pump back up with the same hose that it hooked to in now. The entire thing comes out in one piece so you can reuse it by cutting a hole in the top of the tank (about a 3 inch hole or so) and screwing it back down with some 1/4 inch stainless screws. Same thing for the float. I plan on useing a roll on truck liner on the outside right before hanging it. I put one baffel in it you could say. It is not so much for the sloshing, but more for the fuel pump to keep fuel in case I am real low going down a steep hill.
For the hanging, a 13 inch carrige bolt for the rear, going through floor the the cargo area, and I used 3/8 threaded rod on the front with a hole drilled in the lip of the support brace,(sorry for got the technical name for that brace). No the holes are not going to weaken the structure, its on the lip. Angle iron is holding it up now, only because I forgot to buy a piece of 1" thick unistrut. In case some one doesnt think it will be strong enough, My self and another co worker of mine both stood in the middle on a piece 6 foot long and it bends, but doesnt break. This will only be about 24 inches long. All of the bracing will be coated also so no rusting can happen.
The hose to tie in the fuel fill line is 1 3/4 heater hose. I am using the orginal parts and a 1 3/4 copper long radious elbow to tie them in togather. The rest is just matching up the hose and wrapping them in something to keep them from getting holes. I am planning on running them in flexible conduit like electricians use. It is a metal jacket in case you dont know. It can be braced to the truck so it wont droop. the wires will be run inside with the hoses.

Ric

Instead of starting a new thread, I thought I would bring this one back from the dead, lol....

sportJr,
got any pics ? looks like you got it done, lol

ravencr,
did you ever finish this ?
I also talked to a guy that builds tanks, I was quoted $500 but that did have a serious skid plate built into in (hes a competion rock crawler, so knows what Im wanting) then I would get a new sending unit, float etc.

BUT,,,,
I was doing some looking, and asking around, why not use a tank from an oldertoyota ? but a new one ? http://www.gastanks.com/prodinfo.asp?number=TO-7D
Im wondering if the filler necks are the same size, then I could build a skid around that tank.

ravencr

Ric, I had finished mine a long time ago and it worked great. I'd contact Will here on the forum with the newly SAS'd 2nd Gen, because if I'm not mistaken he's found an even better tank to fit in there. It's shallower than my isuzu tank was, which would be nice. My info is on a thread in here I think called Official Gas Tank Relocation or something like that.

Chris

Ric

Im thinking that I might go (when I get to that point) with a custom tank, at least it will have a built in, hard core skid plate, but my concern right now is the float, and the fuel gage on the dash..
If I go with a custom, Im sure I will have to get a float, etc. from a vehicle that has the same fuel compasity. meaning, If I have a 22-25 gal. tank built, I will have to find a float that came in that size of tank, so that, the fuel gage will read corectly. am I thinking this right ? or will the size of the tank that the float came from matter ?

amusement

Allow me to enlighten you.

If you use a gravity feed ... then mounting a float for a fuel meter isn't necessary.

A 14-16 gallon tank if your rear wheel is stored under and 20 gallons if the tire is stored on the tail gate.

More about the gravity fed system. One line goes to the bottom of the main tank to fill it, another goes to the fuel neck of the main tank for venting, one is for fuel return from the fuel regulator, and, finally, an aux fuel neck back in the of the wheel well.

The aux tank sits higher than the main tank.

A one-way valve between the aux tank and main tank will prevent fuel flowing back into the aux tank. Before the valve a fuel filter should be installed.

I paid out over 500 USD to have a 14 gallon tank installed into a 95 Hilux xtra cab 4x4. Ouch!

I have considered fuel safe tanks (fuelsafe.com). They are inexpensive compared to 550 dollar price tag offerd by fabrication shops.

Ric

yes please do, and thank you, as Ive never done anything like this, lol but this will be my main tank, just relocating it, and getting a bigger one. it will go where the stock spare tire was, tire is stored in the cargo area, at some point a tire carrier will be made.
so with a say 25 gal. tank, i will still need the float, and sending unit from a tank of the same size, correct ?

amusement

Mmm, I am confused about why your (Ric) want to remove your main tank?
I am not against removing it if there's a problem. Having two tanks distributes the weight of fuel.

Remember ... the 4runner was designed with the fuel tank on the side. You will need to account for the extra 'dynamic' weight of the rear fuel tank (hope that makes sense).

Drivability is much better distributing weight between main and aux tanks.

Here's some examples of aux gas tanks

http://www.downeyoff-road.com/BodyCo...iaryTanks.html

Also ... your "state" may have emission laws that prevent an aux tank attached to a closed fuel system. My state is so confused I slipped under the emissions 'radar'. Other states like, California, demand a fuel pump to transfer fuel rather than gravity feed. I believe that's why Downey sells an electric pump for newer Tacoma pickups aux tank kits.

I will search around tomorrow for the schematics of the NW Metal Fab tank I purchased in 2001. I don't recommend NW Metal Fab. The welder left copper wire from the MIG in the tank. Customer service was a poor experience too.

Ric

Im wanting to replace it with a better, bigger and stronger tank,
the main tank is so damaged at this point, it sits to low, I keep draging it on rocks, and I want want something that hold a little more volume.

Yes it does, but once I do the tank relocation, Ill probley relocate the battery(maybe do a dual battery set up) to that spot, adding room to the engine bay.
thankx for all the info. keep it coming if ya have more. this is in the "planning" stage, Im looking at my options.

ravencr

It's the best mod I did to my 1997 along with the drivetrain lift and completely flat undercarriage. You'll be amazed at what you used to hit that you now just ride right over with no problem. Go for it Ric, but I'd contact Will on here to see if he's made some progress with his mustang tank.

Chris