ravencr

Me too!

Chris

synovus

Chris, this isn't as much a suggestion as it is a heads-up... I'd think twice about doing business with AOR. Although I've purchased from them in the past with no problems, they seem to be going thru some major difficulties lately, especially in the customer service area. A few people on TTORA have been having BIG problems getting products shipped and/or other issues resolved. Especially as it relates to your desire to use the orbit-eyes, there's been a few members who have had poor construction/reliability issues. Check out this thread, in particular post #10. I don't know about you, but I don't have 8 months (or more) to wait around on parts to get a problem fixed. There's other threads on TTORA pertaining to problems with AOR. A quick search should pull up a few of 'em.

Have you looked into Johnny Joints? I recently wheeled with a guy in a Jeep who's got 'em on his rig, and they were damn impressive.

ravencr

Yeah, the Johnny joints are a good product. I'm happy with the one I use on my panhard bar a long time ago, but the assembly is hard to do without a press. Plus the new AOR orbit eyes have a lot more flex than the johnny joints and RE joints. They just got a new batch of the orbit eyes in, and they are completely redesigned, so I'm not sure these threads are for the old or new ones? I've caught wind of the threads, but if I literally have that much trouble I can stop by there place and raise hell if I needed to.

I don't know, the JJ and RE joints are fine products, but I was looking for a little more flex, which is when I came across the AOR's. I do appreciate the heads up, and I'm far from making the final decision.

I found a shop here in Fort Collins, that thinks they may be able to bend 2"x.5" DOM, so it might save me a ton of time to use them instead of fabbing everything myself. IF they can bend it, I may go that route.

Chris

99_Runner

This is going to be a sweet setup.

ravencr

I hope it all works out. I might have found a shop that can bend 2"x.5" DOM tubing, but to test it out, I'd have to blow at least $46 just to see if they could. It's $23/ft for that thick of DOM around here. Wow!

Chris

Flygtenstein

What is the ratio of lower link to upper link?

It is sounding like 2:1 with stock length/mounted uppers?

Just trying to get back on board with what is happening.

Albuquerque Jim

I was wondering this too.

You can't lengthen the lowers without lengthening the uppers as well can you?

ravencr

It's probably worse of a ration than that. The lowers I've proposed are 36" eye to eye, and the uppers are probably a tad of 12" long.

Chris

P.S. Jim, I have no idea if you can or not.

Albuquerque Jim

Chris, I belive you can find a link calculator online somewhere.

ravencr

I've got it already, but I haven't spent the time to measure everything up yet, and may not.

Chris

ravencr

Well, for the upper links, I've decided to go with the following setup:

1) 2 small RE joints $79.95 from Desert Fab thanks to Jim
2) 1.5"x.25" DOM tubing
3) www.aa-mfg.com threaded inserts $11.76 + shipping


Do you guys think this bushing will be thick enough at .095" from M.O.R.E.:
BA125 1-1/4" x .095 2" 3/8" $9.50
http://www.mountainoffroad.com/catal...shAssy/uba.htm

And, if it is, I'll be running 4 of these to make them adjustable on each end:



What do you guys think?

Chris

lee

pervert









sorry i couldnt resist.

ravencr

I have no idea what you're talking about there, but whatever. I got the 1.5" DOM, and it ran me $10.20/ft from Colorado Iron and Metal. This is the first time I realized that there isn't the little weld inside DOM, so I don't have to worry about that when inserting the threaded inserts, which is nice.

Chris

ravencr

By the way, Ricky at www.suicidedoors.com has been awesome. He can make pretty much any joint size you want. Also, so can: http://www.hhspeedandmachine.com/index.html

I'm getting prices on 2 1/8" mounting width urethan bushings right now with 12mm sleeved bolt holes to replace one end of my upper suspension links. They will have the 3/4"x16 pitch threaded rod already welded on. The other end I'll be using the small RE joints, which I'm hoping will be enough pivot to eliminate the binding in the upper links.

Also, I'm waiting on a response back from Ricky at Suicide doors to see what he thinks about running standard bushings at each end of the lower links welded to 1 1/8" threaded rod that screws into the DOM tubing. Drill and tap a grease fitting, and let the bushing pivot on the threads, which would allow for any amount of pivoting I would ever need. I know people have done it, but I'm confirming with him if he thinks 2.5-3" of thread depth is enough to last.

Chris

ravencr

Ok, making a little more progress on the upper links. So far I've got together:

1) 1.5"x.25" DOM tubing
2) A&A Mfg threaded inserts

And today, got 3/4" 16 pitch grade 8 bolts from a local fastener shop: CD Fastener in Fort Collins. These will be welded to the RE joints.

And, I had Rich Hedge at http://www.hhspeedandmachine.com/ make me up some custom 2 1/8" urethane bushings for the other end. They will have a 12mm sleeve, 3/16" wall thickness, and 2 1/8" mounting width, so it will fit perfectly in the stock location. Rich is super nice and can make just about anything in his shop, so keep him in mind when you need something custom size.

Chris

99_Runner

Can't wait for pics.

ravencr

Here's what my current setup looks like in the 4-link calculator. I have no idea what this all means. Can anyone shed some light on this stuff?



Chris

dragr1

iTrader: (3)

Um?

Bama you're the engineer, chime in.

ravencr

Yeah, you and me both! I have no clue!

Chris

ravencr

Here's some more pics of the 8 wrap LC coils installed and the 95% completed rear bumper:



















Chris