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04-02-2004, 02:09 AM

#21

ravencr

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Originally Posted by Robinhood150

But that's the thing, there are no simple formulas for what you want to do. If there were, the college of engineering could have just given me a sheet of equations and a diploma. They don't do that, we've asked haha.

Well, that's partially true for sure. I guess I'm looking for the ultimate guideline then, if that makes anymore sense! I agree that every vehicle is different and has it's own limitations as to where the links will fit, how long they can be, what kind of angle I'll have to have, etc. But, honestly, I beleive that a proven system that works on one vehicle could be adapted to a different vehicle using percentages of length, distance apart at the axle, the convergence of the links at the front end, etc. But, maybe that's just me.

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You need the background to make it work right and that doesn't come from reading things on the internet. It's a trial and error process that's usually left to trailer queens. The exception is SASing to a leaf spring because it's been done so much that everybody knows how to do it. Unfortunately there are no simple formulas for linked suspension, especially on a 3rd gen 4runner.

I'll agree with you there for sure. MY plan initially is to build the system as close to what I've found will work by reading and researching with enough adjustment room on the links for length, and enough adjustment room for height changes at each joint location, cycle the suspension, adjust, etc. Then measure everything up, and make the final assembly.

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I think what Adrian and Crash are saying is that you shouldn't rush into a linked suspension when you haven't even done a leafed SAS (or something on that scale). Hell, I'm a mechanical engineer, I can understand all the equations etc, and I can fabricate decently, but even I'd be leery of doing a linked suspension right off the bat.

I'm not saying I'm not leary, but I'm the type of person to get all my ducks in a row, then do the fabrication work. I can work simple equations that is needed for this no problem. I think people are scared of it, because there are so many variables to this project, but with the proper research, then adjustment to my specific vehicle, don't you guys think it's a great way to get a lot of rear travel?

Chris

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04-02-2004, 02:25 AM

#22

ravencr

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Originally Posted by Flygtenstein

All right, the pics show what "works" and what does not, but seeing the pics has nothing to do with what is on or could be on your rig. It would be different if you saw what different link angles and separation distances changed in travel through pics, but you asked only for pics. Pics only show a single instance.

I'll agree with that, but I was hoping that multiple pictures from the same person from different angles would be present, but I guess I shoudl have asked specifically for that. But, you're right on that!

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My advice, which is not being asked for

But, I'd love to hear it

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, buy a front locker and wheel what you have. Is your current rig holding you back at all?

At this point, I do need a front locker, and I plan to get one, that's for sure. Would I say that it's holding me back? Sure, in some instances I've found both a front locker would be very nice to have along with 35" tires.

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Lots of people get wood for the best this and the best that and stop having a rig that will actually go down the trail.

I've seen a lot of rigs like this, and too be honest people are amazed that these 4runners can do the things we do with them. I'm sure you get the same thing all the time when you wheel with jeeps or any other type of vehicle that has been lifted a lot more and has much larger tires than we can run.

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If you are just going to drop the dime to get it done, then fine, do it. If you want to do it yourself, it sounds like, as Steve mentioned, that you have bigger fish to fry. For instance, do you own a welder?

My buddy owns the welder, but I do the prep and design work, he welds most of the time, but I can also do it no problems.

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Do you know the difference between a weave and a whip?

Yes!

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Does anti-squat mean anything to you?

Most definitely! The steeper the angle of the links the more antisquat I'll have. but, here in lies one of my questions. I've heard that you want to start with low antisquat, ride it on the trails, and then adjust accordingly to control hop, but maximize traction at the same time. I've heard the 75% rule, the 85% rule, the equal length argument, the axle separation arguments, discussions on what types of joints to run at the axle end and the frame ends, where the lower and upper links should be in relation to the output of the transfer case, etc., and it seems that everyone has a different opinion that maximizes travel, keeps the antisquat reasonable, and minimizes the rear steer.

I guess, from the sound of it all I'll fab up some simple brackets for each link end so that I can move them up and down and in and out, not to mention the adjustment on the actual links themselves for length. Then I'll have a ton of adjustment, drive the truck, and adjust as I go, then finalize everything suing trial and error as you guys mention.

Chris

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