BlazeN8

Toyotech, I'm surprised your 22mm T-bars are working. I have tried 22mm myself and a bunch of customers have too with no luck. I have heard that v6 trucks have stouter T-bars..... but I cannot confirm that. Zack, your T-100 T-bars will find a home eventually. A guy called me the other day asking about putting blazeland on his T-100. He was familiar with YT and so I mentioned you and your build thread. He may be hitting you up for your T-bars. Weren't those puppy's around $600 and didn't you get the last pair! B-yodaful, shoot me an e-mail where to ship and send me a PayPal and I'll send you the brake lines.

ToyoTech559

thats odd lol. i been flexing the crap out of those t bars too. still loving the kit!!

MR.Z

Ordered the T-bars just to be safe.

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

Nate, totally missed my chance to meet you at the Jambo this past weekend, but i can say that ive seen your kit in person and it is one beefy mother. will be ordering it for the runner as soon as i can scrounge up the cash. especially after seeing how well toyotech's rig works with it.

anyone who has not seen this kit IN PERSON needs to before talkin crap.

LoLger

for what it's worth - been running blazeland up front and got deavers in the rears. not much off roading to be honest, but when i had a 3.4L put in the truck, the guys at the shop (toy only swaps in OR) said it was the nicest riding truck they've driven in a very long time. they were impressed with the set-up.

i think it's very drivable as a daily, more so with the 3.4L

blakefogt

the fact that I dd mine with cranked torsion bars right now, makes this solution so much more attractive. Damn money. -_-

85Xtra-Cab

Emailed Nate asking about the BL kit yesterday. Originally I wanted to SAS and I'm still considering it. But if I were to crawl I'd want to not have any fear of beating the snot out of the truck This 94 is my dd, I want to still have a very nice ride quality. I love off roading and have 5 acres to mess around on. I also have private access to the Russian River from my house, and there is so many trails I have made down there for both my ATV and my truck. It's literally limitless. Anyway, I love trails, but I want to keep this truck as long as possible and keep the nice ride on the road. For me, as much as I love driving in the dirt and mud, it's street>dirt. Unless I get another Toy and put it as non-op or get lucky and buy my uncle's 68 FJ40 for cheap..

I drive many back roads, and probably faster than I should. I'd really hate to lose the ability to drive fast and have great handling on my everyday drive to town. My current bracket lift is no quality.... Previous owner installed it. And yes I still think it'd be sweet to SAS but there's really no point. It's my dd and I don't crawl on rocks. But I definitely wheel it. So, it's looking like the BL kit is the way to go for me. Still doing my research, but the BL kit looks most promising. As for replacing the rear block lift... I'm still debating between chevys and f150s.

ToyoTech559

You can install the Blazeland LT kit to your bracket lift for a nice ride and retain your current height
I rock crawl my Blazeland LT all the time and shoot down rocky roads at 30mph GPS indicated.

donomite49

sounds like a good plan.
i rode in a long travel 2nd gen pu and it was amazing.
i've wanted one ever since.
post up results when you get that bad boy done.

85Xtra-Cab

i thought that the BL kit can give you 4" of lift on its own? That's what I'm at now, and that's where I want to stay I think. Biggest tire I want to run are 35's, I have 33's now.

ToyoTech559

More like 3 inch lift for comfortable ride. You could adjust to 4 inches but I don't know how well it would ride tho. If you want to run 35s. Run the LT with your bracket lift. You will be able to maintain your current height with t bar adjustment.

phildelfino

would lowering the t bars improve ride in this case?

ToyoTech559

lowering the t bars will help with a softer ride

85Xtra-Cab

What size tires are those? Can you show a picture of it just sitting on flat pavement? I want to see how your truck stands. The 35's are only a thought, I am actually thinking about dropping to 3" and sticking with 33's. I really like being able to drive fast on back roads with tight corners, and if dropping down lower would improve that type of driving I'll do it. Performance>looks. If staying at 4-5" and stepping up to 35's mean worse handling and ride quality then I'd rather not... Yeah it looks cool but 3"/33's fits my needs and I like driving fast.

ToyoTech559

In on 32s. Let me know if you need more pictures.

BlazeN8

On 35s and 4" stilts (aka 4" drop bracket)



Blazelander2013

Rexford Perry

I have a BL kit, flogged it for years no problems. I have Downey Mega Travel ball joints and Idler Arm Brace. I also have 4.7 Marlin Transfercase gears and 35's. I have a Detroit in the rear and Truetrac in front. I run rock crawling trails like the Rubicon and Slickrock, I even went on part of Fordyce w old 33's. I have broke 3 outer CVs. That's it. Blazeland's kit is excellent and bulitproof. I had a solid axle before. It's only major advantage is Birfields, or better yet Longs are hard to break. BL ifs handles and rides better hands down. I will be going to a solid axle again after I snap a few more cv's and wear out the bushings a little more. I just can't see $2000 for RCV's. If you knock out the pressed in bolts and use 7/16" bolts and nuts it takes half an hour to change a cv. You don't even have to take off the wheel. Just get the broken side in full droop and it comes right out.

BlazeN8

Rex,

You have had the Blazeland LA kit since 2010 and yours is kit #31. I am now at #120 for the" turn key" kit! Add to that another 60 something for the DIY weld up kit. The only failures I am aware of to the control arms are due to collisions, roll over, or some other type of obvious abuse like huck fest jumping (myself). When you have experienced CV axle failure what do you feel is the cause? Often what I am hearing is low profile bump or droop stops that allow that extra bit of travel that causes the CV inner barrel to bind on itself. If this is the case you can clearance the barrel with an angle grinder. Or go back to the factory bump or droop stops. If needed, the bump or droop stop can be shimmed until the CV doesn't bind on itself. The main thing is not to get greedy with travel numbers or the CV will self destruct. However, you may be breaking them due to 35s and extra low T-case gears. Thanks for the update!