Question on rear shock removal for 3rd gen
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Question on rear shock removal for 3rd gen
I've already upgraded my stock shocks to Bilsteins but my question is: Is there any easy way to take the top nut off the rear shocks. It was a real PITA. The angles to reach the nut were extremely difficult so using power tools or regular tools were just difficult. I think it took about two hours just to replace the rear shocks including putting in the spacer on the springs. My mechanic said that this should have only taken half an hour tops if he could reach the nut.
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if its like the 2nd gen. there is no easy way escpecially on the passenger side. The hard part though is chicago winters. the nut was completely seized. I maneged to get a grinder up there and get it cut off. Next time im making a cross member and installing eyes on it instead of the stud style. Also if you have the eyes on top and bottom you have a lot more options as far as getting the right shock.
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It's a 3rd gen but I couldn't even imagine getting a grinder to the nut. There was barely any room to get a wrench in there. I guess you could always cut the shock since you're replacing it any way and get a new nut. The problem wasn't just taking it off but also getting the nut back on the shock. Anyone else with some thoughts on easier ways.
Originally Posted by 4rnr
if its like the 2nd gen. there is no easy way escpecially on the passenger side. The hard part though is chicago winters. the nut was completely seized. I maneged to get a grinder up there and get it cut off. Next time im making a cross member and installing eyes on it instead of the stud style. Also if you have the eyes on top and bottom you have a lot more options as far as getting the right shock.
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If you've got the rear wheel off, you should be able to thread you hand up inside to get a socket on the nut. It puts your wrist at weird angle, but it's doable.
It was much easier getting the rear shock back on than it was taking off for me.
It was much easier getting the rear shock back on than it was taking off for me.
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Yes it's really hard to get at those nuts!! if you can get at them, then you can grab the rod of the socks with some 'vise grip' pliers!!! And it helps to take the top trac bar off!!
I cut the top of the old shocks right below the support with a little grinder with a little vip wheel!! And Just so all you guys know that the stock shocks are filled with oil that runs through the rod which is 'hollow' so oil sprays everywhere when your cutting trough them!!! Learned that the hard way!!!
Well Good Luck
I cut the top of the old shocks right below the support with a little grinder with a little vip wheel!! And Just so all you guys know that the stock shocks are filled with oil that runs through the rod which is 'hollow' so oil sprays everywhere when your cutting trough them!!! Learned that the hard way!!!
Well Good Luck
Last edited by 97Limited; 08-29-2005 at 10:45 AM.
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Originally Posted by 00Runner
For me the hardest part was trying to hold the shock from turning with the nut when trying to get it off.
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#8
On my 2000: I had a 2" body lift, so that helps w/ the space issue for sure.
Get a strap wrench to hold the shock if you want to save it to re-use. If not, get a big pair of vice grips and have at getting a grip on it by whacking it flat w/ a hammer or something.
Coat the top nut w/ PB Blaster and use a rachet/socket to take it off. Mine took all of 5 minutes to take off and swap.
Did another 3rd gen, a 99, and it still wasn't bad...just used a smaller ratchet and a cheater bar. Holding the shock still is the key.
Get a strap wrench to hold the shock if you want to save it to re-use. If not, get a big pair of vice grips and have at getting a grip on it by whacking it flat w/ a hammer or something.
Coat the top nut w/ PB Blaster and use a rachet/socket to take it off. Mine took all of 5 minutes to take off and swap.
Did another 3rd gen, a 99, and it still wasn't bad...just used a smaller ratchet and a cheater bar. Holding the shock still is the key.
Last edited by waskillywabbit; 08-29-2005 at 02:04 PM.
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Hey waskillywabbit;
Yeah totally that extera 2" space would feel like 2 feet under there!!!
I did mine in about an hour!!! working with just a couple jack-stands!!!
Yeah totally that extera 2" space would feel like 2 feet under there!!!
I did mine in about an hour!!! working with just a couple jack-stands!!!
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I easiesy and safest way is with a racheting wrench.
Sears
All shocks have either have a top which can be held with a wrench or an allen wrench. Bilsteins use the allen wrench. Just put you racheting wrench on put the allen wrench in the top and in less then 5 min. it is off. with no damage to the shock.
Sears
All shocks have either have a top which can be held with a wrench or an allen wrench. Bilsteins use the allen wrench. Just put you racheting wrench on put the allen wrench in the top and in less then 5 min. it is off. with no damage to the shock.
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I had Bilsteins on for about two years and had to ruin them by grinding a flat spot on the shaft. It was the only way to grip the shaft and keep it from spinning while turning that allen head. I tried everything before deciding to do this.
The OME shocks have a metal boot which can be held with a strap wrench. Much better shocks all around.
The OME shocks have a metal boot which can be held with a strap wrench. Much better shocks all around.
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Originally Posted by TStango
I had Bilsteins on for about two years and had to ruin them by grinding a flat spot on the shaft. It was the only way to grip the shaft and keep it from spinning while turning that allen head. I tried everything before deciding to do this.
The OME shocks have a metal boot which can be held with a strap wrench. Much better shocks all around.
The OME shocks have a metal boot which can be held with a strap wrench. Much better shocks all around.
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You're right. I often type with too many distractions going on and don't explain fully.
Now that I think about it, what happened was the nut was seized on and the torque needed to get it off was more than the allen could handle.
It was getting to the point where the amount of time we were spending on it wasn't worth the money I would have gotten from selling them used.
Now that I think about it, what happened was the nut was seized on and the torque needed to get it off was more than the allen could handle.
It was getting to the point where the amount of time we were spending on it wasn't worth the money I would have gotten from selling them used.
#14
did my lift last night, i ended cutting out the bottom bushing....which is on the bottom side of the top mount
i could get at the nut, but it would budge, ended up cutting the shock right where it goes into the top mount, was a bitch kinda but worked
lift all in, front and rear
cant stop looking at the truck, looks great
i could get at the nut, but it would budge, ended up cutting the shock right where it goes into the top mount, was a bitch kinda but worked
lift all in, front and rear
cant stop looking at the truck, looks great
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Originally Posted by BOSTON4RUNNER
did my lift last night, i ended cutting out the bottom bushing....which is on the bottom side of the top mount
i could get at the nut, but it would budge, ended up cutting the shock right where it goes into the top mount, was a bitch kinda but worked
lift all in, front and rear
cant stop looking at the truck, looks great
i could get at the nut, but it would budge, ended up cutting the shock right where it goes into the top mount, was a bitch kinda but worked
lift all in, front and rear
cant stop looking at the truck, looks great
Oh, and
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Like you said, it was painful. We finally got the nut out but it took all kinds of attempts before we got it to work. Putting in the shock was easier but getting nut screwed in was still a pain.
Originally Posted by BOSTON4RUNNER
did my lift last night, i ended cutting out the bottom bushing....which is on the bottom side of the top mount
i could get at the nut, but it would budge, ended up cutting the shock right where it goes into the top mount, was a bitch kinda but worked
lift all in, front and rear
cant stop looking at the truck, looks great
i could get at the nut, but it would budge, ended up cutting the shock right where it goes into the top mount, was a bitch kinda but worked
lift all in, front and rear
cant stop looking at the truck, looks great
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