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Aftermarket rear axle housings?

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Old 01-15-2010, 07:02 PM
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TG was the way to go. We run one on our xrra rig that gets beat to death and it has never given us any problem. Great proudct
Old 01-15-2010, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by hross14
TC--are you running or going to run ABS.......
Yes, but it's a 1 channel system - the sensor is in the third member, not out at the wheels.
Old 01-15-2010, 07:20 PM
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PICS OR IT DIDNT HAPPEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! cant wait to see it installed
Old 01-15-2010, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by yoder519
PICS OR IT DIDNT HAPPEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! cant wait to see it installed
Fer goodness sakes! I have a whole thread of pics on this! https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...er-ron-200156/

Here is me today trying to get those links off Man they were a BEAR!
Old 03-14-2010, 06:41 AM
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So, apparently my diff is slinging oil out the diff breather.

For those who have the TG housing, do you have that issue? Do you have baffles inside?
Old 03-14-2010, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by tc
So, apparently my diff is slinging oil out the diff breather.

For those who have the TG housing, do you have that issue? Do you have baffles inside?
Got some pics?

Old 03-15-2010, 01:23 PM
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Pix of what?

Haven't taken the third out yet, was hoping to avoid it ... called T-G, they were little to no help ... looks like I'll be welding a baffle in.
Old 03-15-2010, 03:52 PM
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Here are the pics of the original bent axle housing:





This is where the diff breather was located on the TG axle: (Note it is right under the lower link mount)


After trussing it, it was WAY up inside the truss, underneath the lower link mount.


So it was hard to get to after the truss. Plus, TG desined it all wrong since the Truss filled up with gear oil!
Old 03-15-2010, 04:05 PM
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Here we cut out the truss to get to the diff breather:


Here is the diff breather after draining the truss:


As you can see it is hard to get to, because the diff breather (installed by Trail Gear) is right below the lower link.


We also had to put in pin holes in the truss to drain all the diff oil before we cut out the truss!

So what to do???

Last edited by Lysmachia; 03-15-2010 at 04:08 PM.
Old 03-25-2010, 05:38 PM
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Brian will get my money *IF* I ever need a housing. No doubt.
Old 03-29-2010, 08:04 PM
  #31  
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So, welded in a baffle, and it STILL leaks.
Old 03-29-2010, 08:11 PM
  #32  
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Wow it looks like you guys just cant get a break ..have you guys heard of anybody else having this problem .
Old 03-29-2010, 08:15 PM
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According to TrailGear, it's the first they've heard of it ... of course, their "solution" was to buy more parts from them (creeper breather bellows setup, which wouldn't work)
Old 04-02-2010, 12:51 PM
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A recent thought, is that maybe the diff breather we have in there is broken and is somehow creating pressure that then makes the oil pump out? So we will at least replace the breather if not plug the hole and move it all together....
Old 04-06-2010, 05:25 AM
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Why not just run a breather hose to it?
Old 04-06-2010, 05:57 AM
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No room to get the hose out without kinking it or having it run downhill (where gear oil could pool)

Ended up plugging the "factory" hole and drilling for a vent out on the tube.
Old 04-06-2010, 07:16 AM
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Could have probably used a 90° fitting, but moving it was probably best.
Old 04-06-2010, 06:14 PM
  #38  
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Nope - a 90* would have sent the gear oil downhill in the breather tube.

Tried a 45*, but it wouldn't fit.
Old 04-08-2010, 02:11 PM
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Hopefully all is now well.... *crosses fingers*
Old 08-06-2011, 04:57 PM
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Arrow Yes its an old thread...

First off I should mention something nobody said in this thread, Strength! I would gladly put our housing against ANY housing made in a test for strength...

However, there are many reasons to choose Ruffstuff, over 100 people have chosen our Toyota 8" housing so far. Its not as many as the 400+ that are running our 9" housings but it is certainly a fair representation.

I have 2 issues with the TG housing. I applaud their outside of the box thinking but these 2 issues aren't addressed.

#1) Tube size, both diameter & thickness. Ours are 3.5" in diameter and .375" thick which is over 80% stronger. They chose the smaller tube for clearance and decided strength wasn't as important.

#2) Faceplate orientation. Using the offset tubes you cannot tilt your pinion, it must remain at a 90 degree angle or the axle shaft will not align with the spider gears and the steering goes to pot. This can also introduce the need for a very expensive driveshaft rather than a standard type shaft.

The Diamond axle is fine and ours is certainly simular but we add more bends so we can make it smaller in overall diameter and our larger tubes are standard rather than an option that cost more.

Our Axle Housing has more clearance than any other under the 3rd member and is stronger also, we also reinforce it inside 3 different ways and we have added the option of additional armor at the bottom if you feel you need it. We have spent a lot of time and money to make ours the best.

We sell many housings bare and we finish many too, here are a few we have finished for customers.

This one has Knuckleballs, Shock Brackets, Spring Perches, & Armor with the faceplate set at a 13 degree angle.


This one is in a single seat buggy with a Wishbone Bracket, Armor, Trusses, & Links


Here is a YouTube video explaining axle trueness...
http://youtu.be/EmJwNdXy9f4


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