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Tundra towing, what changes would you make?
#1
Tundra towing, what changes would you make?
Hey to all, Just got sweet deal on a 29' travel trailer. Now I need advice on improvements to my Tundra 2wd, 4.7, looking mostly for advice on brake upgrades. I already have dual exhaust, K&N, add-a-leaf for 550lbs, capacity, 8000lb class III receiver hitch and sway bar.
I'm sure I need to add the electronic sensor for e-brakes on the trailer and may add "air bags" or air shocks for leveling more than anything else.
Obviously I am concerned about the brake system on the Tundra because of comments on this board. any and all comments will be appreciated. thanks in advance for the help. EDH
PS. anybody already towing with this type rig, your comments would definatley be appreciated.
I'm sure I need to add the electronic sensor for e-brakes on the trailer and may add "air bags" or air shocks for leveling more than anything else.
Obviously I am concerned about the brake system on the Tundra because of comments on this board. any and all comments will be appreciated. thanks in advance for the help. EDH
PS. anybody already towing with this type rig, your comments would definatley be appreciated.
#2
Originally Posted by h7009
Hey to all, Just got sweet deal on a 29' travel trailer. Now I need advice on improvements to my Tundra 2wd, 4.7, looking mostly for advice on brake upgrades. I already have dual exhaust, K&N, add-a-leaf for 550lbs, capacity, 8000lb class III receiver hitch and sway bar.
I'm sure I need to add the electronic sensor for e-brakes on the trailer and may add "air bags" or air shocks for leveling more than anything else.
Obviously I am concerned about the brake system on the Tundra because of comments on this board. any and all comments will be appreciated. thanks in advance for the help. EDH
PS. anybody already towing with this type rig, your comments would definatley be appreciated.
I'm sure I need to add the electronic sensor for e-brakes on the trailer and may add "air bags" or air shocks for leveling more than anything else.
Obviously I am concerned about the brake system on the Tundra because of comments on this board. any and all comments will be appreciated. thanks in advance for the help. EDH
PS. anybody already towing with this type rig, your comments would definatley be appreciated.
#3
Registered User
Sorry I tired responing yesterday, but my computer is dumb.
First thing to do is get an electronic brake controller. Here is some good info one them http://www.etrailer.com/faq/brakecontrol.asp I use a pendulum type (Tekonsha Voyager). It is smoother to engage. But a good unit is a Draw Tite Activator II. They will save your butt. You will most likely have to wire it in as the Tundras don't have the factory wiring for brakes. Secondly get a Weight Distribution hitch. They will place less load on the back end of your truck. Lastly see about getting a temp gauge for the tranny if you are going to be in mountain country.
Andrew
First thing to do is get an electronic brake controller. Here is some good info one them http://www.etrailer.com/faq/brakecontrol.asp I use a pendulum type (Tekonsha Voyager). It is smoother to engage. But a good unit is a Draw Tite Activator II. They will save your butt. You will most likely have to wire it in as the Tundras don't have the factory wiring for brakes. Secondly get a Weight Distribution hitch. They will place less load on the back end of your truck. Lastly see about getting a temp gauge for the tranny if you are going to be in mountain country.
Andrew
#4
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: St. Paul, MN
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What yr tundra you got? 00-02, you may want to upgrade to a 6/7 pin plug. 03-05 comes with a 7 pin plug. Class 3 hitch are rated for 5k max, you'll need a class 4, maybe that's what you meant, a receiver and ball to match the rating. Trailor brakes, controller, rear sway bar, distributing and sway equipments, aal/bags, anything else I missed.
I tow 70-80% of the time but I don't tow 5-6k much. My average weight I tow is 3.5K, mostly boats and vehicles on dollies. Which don't come with brakes so I rely on my trucks brakes to do the work. The tundra stops fine with stock brakes, the rotor warping is caused by improper rear brake adjustments which cause the front to work harder thus causing the premature warp. Mine never warps and I have a 00 model yr. But then I also switched to crossdrill and slotted rotor around 30k or so. My tundra does superb towing and stopping so I don't see why yours is any different.
I tow 70-80% of the time but I don't tow 5-6k much. My average weight I tow is 3.5K, mostly boats and vehicles on dollies. Which don't come with brakes so I rely on my trucks brakes to do the work. The tundra stops fine with stock brakes, the rotor warping is caused by improper rear brake adjustments which cause the front to work harder thus causing the premature warp. Mine never warps and I have a 00 model yr. But then I also switched to crossdrill and slotted rotor around 30k or so. My tundra does superb towing and stopping so I don't see why yours is any different.
#5
Originally Posted by ricqik
What yr tundra you got? 00-02, you may want to upgrade to a 6/7 pin plug. 03-05 comes with a 7 pin plug. Class 3 hitch are rated for 5k max, you'll need a class 4, maybe that's what you meant, a receiver and ball to match the rating. Trailor brakes, controller, rear sway bar, distributing and sway equipments, aal/bags, anything else I missed.
I tow 70-80% of the time but I don't tow 5-6k much. My average weight I tow is 3.5K, mostly boats and vehicles on dollies. Which don't come with brakes so I rely on my trucks brakes to do the work. The tundra stops fine with stock brakes, the rotor warping is caused by improper rear brake adjustments which cause the front to work harder thus causing the premature warp. Mine never warps and I have a 00 model yr. But then I also switched to crossdrill and slotted rotor around 30k or so. My tundra does superb towing and stopping so I don't see why yours is any different.
I tow 70-80% of the time but I don't tow 5-6k much. My average weight I tow is 3.5K, mostly boats and vehicles on dollies. Which don't come with brakes so I rely on my trucks brakes to do the work. The tundra stops fine with stock brakes, the rotor warping is caused by improper rear brake adjustments which cause the front to work harder thus causing the premature warp. Mine never warps and I have a 00 model yr. But then I also switched to crossdrill and slotted rotor around 30k or so. My tundra does superb towing and stopping so I don't see why yours is any different.
PS. any info on your brake upgrade, specific's, on how to. Did it yourself etc. thanks again,
#6
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Mine had a 4 pin too, I changed it to a 4/7 in-one plug. It has your regular 4 pin plug and a 7 pin both on one bracket/holder. So you can use either one depending on you trialer type. Bought it at Wal-Mart for about $20.
#7
Registered User
As long as you have trailer brakes don't worry about the brakes on your truck. I would suggest going with a better set of brake pads. Maybe a set of TRDs if they are available. I wouldn't worry about the spring situation much. You already have an AAL and that should be plenty.
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