rworegon

Matt, I've not seen a cam seal get beyond the seepy phase. Certainly have not seen one sling oil all over the place like a crank seal. Yes, the only was to look at the seals is to get the cam gear and cover off.

Looking at your pics, I really think it's your valve covers that is contributing the majority of the oil up high. Clean off as much oil as you can and retorque as many valve cover bolts as you can reach until you can change the gaskets next month.

Then periodically just remove the upper timing cover to take a peak for oil that may be coming from the seals. I call it monitored deferred maintenance if the seals just stay at the seeping point which we are assuming they are. :-)

Get that TB and related parts back together and enjoy the Holidays!

mattbatson

thanks guys, I am getting back on it today and hope to have it together either today or early tomorrow.
As soon as we get back from our NC trip, I'll do the valve cover gaskets.

I'll post up some pics

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

I removed the radiator (was due for a flush anyway...) and it gave me TONS of extra space, it only takes about 10 minutes to pull and don't have to worry about damaging it.

Bungee the PS and AC compressor out of the way leaving the lines attached and the tensioner is pretty easy to get at.

I had a little oil spittle from the left valve cover onto my exhaust headers, tightened the bolts down (10mm socket on 1/4" drive) but like someone else said, do not overdo it! INCH pounds! mine were a bit on the loose side, a little 'snugging up' eliminated the periodic drip for the time being. I bet yours are on the loose side also.

As for the tool, that sucks the first one didn't hold up; the spanner tool is expensive but maybe you could find a local shop or buddy with a welder to fab a metal one? would be worth it to have a solid metal one for repeated use/peace of mind I think. 217 ft/lbs is a lot!

I was glad to have a solid tool for when I had to torque that joker back on while lining up the marks; hope you can find/make a better one - can't wait to see ya back on the road!

mattbatson

well I got the tensioner taken care of with a 12mm socket on the end of a 1/4inch drive extension
I actually didnt have to use the little swivel thingy, as with the 1/4 inch drive there was enough room
I was really a bit of a pain though, and took several tries witht he wife up top guiding the socket and bolt with her little hands (she used to be an aircraft mechanic), and me underneath with the rachet.
I took pics, but my laptop got hit by the Win 7 virus and took out a lot of it's functionality.
I may just have to buy another computer.

anyways, now I'm installing the timing belt, and believe it or not, that is turning into a pain in the ass!
I can get it installed on all of the pulleys except the last one, and then even with pulling and tugging, just cannot get it onto the last one!
this guys tutorial
http://www.nwtoys.com/forum/tech-art...ng-belt-2.html

shows him installing the timing belt with the upper idler pulley UNISTALLED....then the very last thing is he installs the upper idler pulley, pushing down on the belt from the top (between the two cam pulleys) and bolting it in.

I may try this technique

I'll keep you updated, and try to get some pics up

mattbatson

so I just got the timing belt on using the technique of threading it through everything BUT the upper idler pulley, then installing the upper idler pulley by pushing down on the timing belt.

that worked a lot easier.

however, all the lines are good except for the left (drivers side) cam pulley. The timing belt line/mark that is on the actual timing belt, is lined up with the pulley mark itself...but then both of those are supposed to line up with the "V" on the black tin above, and it is slightly off.
Other side cam pulley is good, and crank is good...and there is no slop at all in the belt.

Dammit I wish I could post pics?
I'm going to try emailing the pics to my wife at work and let her post them here on the forum...

4biker

How slightly is it off? I was pretty worried about it when I did mine the first time. If the belt is from the factory and all of the marks are on the right teeth, you're probably good to go. Mine was a goodyear belt that didn't have marks so I was sweating bullets the first time I fired it up, because it wasn't 100% perfect on all three marks, but it ran like a champ. Putting a factory belt on the second time looked pretty much identical, so don't worry about one degree off on one pulley.

93toyrunner2

Rotate the crankshaft clockwise (turning the crankshaft bolt) two full revolutions of the timing marks on the camshaft gears, and see if all three timing marks line up at the end. Once they go around, the timing mark lines on the belts will NOT line up anymore. This doesn't matter, just the timing marks on the 2 cam gears and TDC on the crank.

mattbatson

hey, thx for responding so quick
Okay, I think I'm okay.
what is going on is, everything is slightly to the right of the cooresponding marks on the engine.

Meaning, the crank pulley and both cam pulleys are turned slightly clockwise off of the marks on the tins and off the oil pump mark for the crank pulley.
In other words, if I were to spin the motor counterclockwise just one tooth, that EVERYTHING would be lined up perfectly.

So, I COULD pull the timing belt off, reset all the pulleys one tooth to the left, and then put the belt back on....but I'm thinking I really dont have to, and that all is good

right?

mattbatson

hey, yeah I was gonna do the two full turns clockwise dealeo to check, but the tensioner pin is not pulled yet, and i didnt want to pull it until I was sure i could,,,cause that thing is a pain, lol

or, can I turn it with the tensioner pin still in?

the belt feels pretty tight...i'll give it a spin and see what happens

4biker

Pull the pin (make sure the crank pulley has the dang spacer/washer behind it first) and it will turn the left pulley back a little bit. then crank it around like 93toyrunner said and you'll have some more confidence. How you described things being off is just like in this writeup: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timing_belt/ (see Assembly step 7 way down the page).

4biker

If you pull the pin and need to remove the tensioner for some reason, just keep the pin, take the tensioner somewhere with a shop press or 6" vice (like a demo vice at Home Depot, and re-insert the pin. It's intimidating, but you've got to pull the trigger when it's time.

mattbatson

hey, I turned it twice and sure enough all the marks line up perfectly, and you are correct, the lines on the belt itself DO NOT line up anymore....which kinda blew my mind a little

So looks like I'm GOOD!

Alrighty, continuing my installation with confidence


also, somebody mentioned checking the valve cover bolts, and i happened to glance over and look at one of the 10mm cover bolts...so i put a wrench on it and was amazed at how loose it was. I then went around to all the ones i could get to easily and they were all loose

got the lower timing cover on, then plan to put the crank pulley on,,,,then i will pull the pin on the tensioner, rotate everything again twice just to make sure

mattbatson

alright, tensioner is released, turned it over and all is fine.
crank pulley is back on and being torqued with a NEW bolt as we speak

J2F42C

I am pulling for ya Matt. Load the pics when ya can.

My friend on his T100 actually taped the pin inside the glove compartment (same engine).

mattbatson

ha ha, when I pulled the pin, I started thinking where I should put it so that I remember where it is...just in case, lol
that is a good idea
just torqued the crank bolt and it went fine.
now it is all downhill from here...
figured out how to post pics from my wife's I pad...will do later

rworegon

Sure is! You'll have it running soon. Quite the process, but now you could do it in a fraction of the time.

The marks on the belt not lining up after the two revolution have freaked out many......your received good advice on the cam and crank marks lining up.

Those valve cover bolts were probably finger tight, at best, from what I have experienced with them. Tightening them will at least slow the leaking on the passenger side and the out edge of the driver side.

Press on...... get 'er done!

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

^^^^ahhhh.... heed this wise choice for all ye who read this!! NEW crank bolt/proper torque = no engine grenade and hundreds of dollars in parts down the road

glad your on track, sounds like she will be running very shortly!

I'm rootin' for you too, know the feeling all too well

mattbatson

thank you everyone for the support and great information.

I have it pretty much all back together, but then had to leave it as we drove down to the in laws for x-mas.
I'll get it done and running just as soon as we get back...which will just be tightening the belts and putting coolant back in.
I will also get some pics up of the method we used to access the tensioner.
Thanks to 93toyrunner2 for his pm to me about how to get the operating system working on my laptop again!
I'll be back in business in no time!

rworegon

Matt.....sounds good.

When you put the coolant in, fill the block through the upper radiator hose. I can generally get about a gallon in there and a gallon in the radiator itself. Top off after the thermostat opens.....it helps to have the radiator fill hole at the highest point to purge air pockets from the block.

Oh, and use distilled water.

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

napa auto parts sells Zerex, exact same type of coolant as Toyota long life at about 1/3 the price. saved me a ton of $$$. $11/gallon (not mixed) is what I payed about a year ago, toyota's is up to over $30/gal.

i think there are at least two types, get the 'asian vehicle', it has the same chemical components as toyota's.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...antifreeze/105


might also be worth it to do a flush and rinse while you're in there; prestone superflush works pretty good, sodium citrate is the detergent in it I believe. to do the flush and then 3 rinses and a fill up, I go thru about 7 or 8 gallons if I remember correctly. takes me about 3 hours total.

Walmart always has distilled for 83 cents/gal and plenty of it; i've done my truck a couple times, my runner and the wife's honda - all had tons of scales and other crap come out after the prestone flush.

come to think of it, I just remembered when I bought my truck (from Toyota) it had prestone green crap in it??!! got the good old pink stuff now in all my rigs.

glad you're almost done, have a good Christmas!