View Poll Results: Which locker setup should I go with?
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time to get LOCKED!
#61
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Originally Posted by TomCham
I use ARB front & rear air locker. My rig is purely used on recreational offroad & expedition in China.
#63
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I put a lock-right in my '01 a couple months ago. I love it. I have driven to the mountains of Colorado through all sorts of nasty crap and have had no problems. I Also have driven through Denver in rush hour making u-turns, stop and go, no problems there. Also, it doesn't seem to affect the ABS, VSC or ATRAC. They all work the same, although I usually shut them off in the snow and off road. Also, one thing I did notice is that I could still hear it disengauge in 1 foot of snow going up a switch back mountain road. My, 7 cents.
#64
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I did some research. What I decided was either the elocker or ARB. I had a elocker that I bought drum to drum for 650. I was going to swap the whole rear end out when I found a new ARB on Ebay. I won it for 500...sold the elocker and had ZUK install the ARB. He did a write up on my install. http://www.gearinstalls.com/tacoarbinstall.htm
Most of my driving is on the street. I really didnt think a lunchbox style locker would be right for me.
A bonus for me was that the one legger Taco rears are built pretty tuff, tuffer than the elockers...add a ARB and its one tuff selectable rear.
Total cost with odds and ends, shipping, labor, Ebay comperssor..about 900
Most of my driving is on the street. I really didnt think a lunchbox style locker would be right for me.
A bonus for me was that the one legger Taco rears are built pretty tuff, tuffer than the elockers...add a ARB and its one tuff selectable rear.
Total cost with odds and ends, shipping, labor, Ebay comperssor..about 900
Last edited by boraxman; 03-18-2006 at 06:36 PM.
#68
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ok, ok you need one.
Now you know, deep down inside you'd love to score a good find on a selectable more than anything. The elocker came factory, so that means there are some laying around junkyards, etc. Just find one and work them down on their price until they get down to how much you have. Offer to just swap that axle for your axle and pay a difference. Maybe $200.
I don't know though. You may end up finding all 4.30 geared ones. What gears do you have in yours. 4.10s? Then you'd have to change front gears. (as I'm having to do, but changing front axle too, easier that way, I think?).
But, I'll have 4.30 gears (what I have in rear now). I'm thinking of putting that clutchless LSD (thats pictured on this thread) in the front while the front axle is out. Then I'll have the elocker in back and LSD up front and that should be pretty sweet. That should work out good since the IFS likes to lift a rear tire first, and if a front does get off the ground you can use the brakes on that LSD to lock it up more.
Right now I have the elocker in back, not hooked up. Can't put it in 4wd 4.30R/4.10F. But it's all cool.
nice pics...
Now you know, deep down inside you'd love to score a good find on a selectable more than anything. The elocker came factory, so that means there are some laying around junkyards, etc. Just find one and work them down on their price until they get down to how much you have. Offer to just swap that axle for your axle and pay a difference. Maybe $200.
I don't know though. You may end up finding all 4.30 geared ones. What gears do you have in yours. 4.10s? Then you'd have to change front gears. (as I'm having to do, but changing front axle too, easier that way, I think?).
But, I'll have 4.30 gears (what I have in rear now). I'm thinking of putting that clutchless LSD (thats pictured on this thread) in the front while the front axle is out. Then I'll have the elocker in back and LSD up front and that should be pretty sweet. That should work out good since the IFS likes to lift a rear tire first, and if a front does get off the ground you can use the brakes on that LSD to lock it up more.
Right now I have the elocker in back, not hooked up. Can't put it in 4wd 4.30R/4.10F. But it's all cool.
nice pics...
#70
Registered User
No, theres lots of 4.10 elockers out there. Check www.car-part.com You can probably locate one close to you.
#71
Originally Posted by boraxman
No, theres lots of 4.10 elockers out there. Check www.car-part.com You can probably locate one close to you.
#72
Registered User
Originally Posted by bamachem
oh really? do him a favor then and look up a 4.10 locked third member anywhere in the new england area - for $400 or less - or actually for ANY price...
#73
i've only seen ONE e-locked runner that was verified to have something other than a 4.30 ratio. it's Steve Schaefer's 4cyl-of-fury that was special ordered with the diff lock. since it was a 4cyl and not a V6, it came with toyota 4.56 gearing. every other e-locked diff that i've come across or seen that have been claimed to be factory 4.10 has turned out to actually be 4.30.
i think his saving grace on this might be the tacomas - IIRC, they DID come with a e-locked 4.10 thirdmember as "standard" for the TRD package.
i think his saving grace on this might be the tacomas - IIRC, they DID come with a e-locked 4.10 thirdmember as "standard" for the TRD package.
#75
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I still vote for ARBs with 4.56
More money, but if/ when you go larger than 265s you will want more than 4.30s. i liked mine in the 99, but I had a s/c which made a huge difference.
It will cost some $$$, but IMO you will be happier with lower gears and selectable lockers. The e-locker is nice, but how much $$$ are you going to save?
Plus you ca get a larger air compressor and have OBA
More money, but if/ when you go larger than 265s you will want more than 4.30s. i liked mine in the 99, but I had a s/c which made a huge difference.
It will cost some $$$, but IMO you will be happier with lower gears and selectable lockers. The e-locker is nice, but how much $$$ are you going to save?
Plus you ca get a larger air compressor and have OBA
#77
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Lee you will kick yourself if you pay all that $$$ for 4.30s. If you are going to regear, then do it once.
Andy told me along time ago it WAS NOT worth it to swap from 4.30 to 4.56 b/c the difference is too small to justify the expense.
If you ever go larger than 285---295 or 305, then it will be that much worse.
Trust what you are being told
Andy told me along time ago it WAS NOT worth it to swap from 4.30 to 4.56 b/c the difference is too small to justify the expense.
If you ever go larger than 285---295 or 305, then it will be that much worse.
Trust what you are being told
#78
in a year, you want to have a higher lift (body lift), some 285's on some LX wheels, dual lockers, gears, & a winch.
that's $150 for the BL, $800 for the 285's, $500 for the wheels, $1600 for the lockers and compressor, $500 for the gears, $500 to install the lockers and gears, and $600 for the M8000. add that up and you're at $4650. sell off your wheels and tires for about $650 and you only need $4000 to get where you want to be. you have a year to do it, so that's only $333 a month. start saving now.
save for two months and get a winch. save for 4 more months and get the LX wheels, the 285 MTR's and the body lift. then you sell the OEM wheels, and save for 6 more months and then you'd have gears, dual ARB's, a compressor, and all of that installed...
that's $150 for the BL, $800 for the 285's, $500 for the wheels, $1600 for the lockers and compressor, $500 for the gears, $500 to install the lockers and gears, and $600 for the M8000. add that up and you're at $4650. sell off your wheels and tires for about $650 and you only need $4000 to get where you want to be. you have a year to do it, so that's only $333 a month. start saving now.
save for two months and get a winch. save for 4 more months and get the LX wheels, the 285 MTR's and the body lift. then you sell the OEM wheels, and save for 6 more months and then you'd have gears, dual ARB's, a compressor, and all of that installed...