Notices
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

Tensioner Pulley gone bad

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-09-2004, 11:26 AM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
PirateFins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Smithsburg, Maryland
Posts: 1,958
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Tensioner Pulley gone bad

I was driving home last night when I heard this horrible grinding / squealing noise from the engine. My heart sank because it sounded like there was no oil in the motor. Checked the oil level and it was fine, removed the 7IO cap and there was plenty of oil on the top side (so oil pump was fine). Truck was running fine but the noise was getting worse (wasn't brakes because it was doing it when stopped). Called my Toy Mech friend and he said to check the top tensioner pulley (power steering tensioner) because they go bad alot. Pulled off the belt, ran the motor and no noise. Took off pulley and the bearing is seized. Called my dealer contact and he had one at get this $95 his cost, $130 without discount. Come to find out it is not just the bearing you get but the whole assembly. I don't have time to track down the correct bearing so I am going to just replace it with the assembly.

I can say one thing though. Who ever came up with that bearing assembly had their thinking cap on. The bearing has a bronze bushing inserted over the bolt and goes in the inner race. That way if the bearing seizes like it did, it just slips on the bushing and doesn't tear things up.
The following users liked this post:
Meatbag (10-29-2023)
Old 12-10-2004, 06:57 PM
  #2  
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
 
4Crawler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 10,817
Likes: 0
Received 29 Likes on 26 Posts
Originally Posted by PirateFins
I was driving home last night when I heard this horrible grinding / squealing noise from the engine. My heart sank because it sounded like there was no oil in the motor. Checked the oil level and it was fine, removed the 7IO cap and there was plenty of oil on the top side (so oil pump was fine). Truck was running fine but the noise was getting worse (wasn't brakes because it was doing it when stopped). Called my Toy Mech friend and he said to check the top tensioner pulley (power steering tensioner) because they go bad alot. Pulled off the belt, ran the motor and no noise. Took off pulley and the bearing is seized. Called my dealer contact and he had one at get this $95 his cost, $130 without discount. Come to find out it is not just the bearing you get but the whole assembly. I don't have time to track down the correct bearing so I am going to just replace it with the assembly.

I can say one thing though. Who ever came up with that bearing assembly had their thinking cap on. The bearing has a bronze bushing inserted over the bolt and goes in the inner race. That way if the bearing seizes like it did, it just slips on the bushing and doesn't tear things up.
I have the replacement bearings for the tensioner pulleys available. You likely have the larger dia. one, e-mail or PM me if you are interested in getting a replacement.
Old 12-10-2004, 07:20 PM
  #3  
Registered User
 
Fahrenheit 451's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: western Colorado
Posts: 591
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I think I will sing the standard Toyota owner anthem: "screw the dealer". Get a bearing from Roger. All you need is the bearing unless you get western when you try to press out the bad one and damage the pulley. Even then, a little scrounging in the junkyard will get you another. The first one I had to replace, I cracked the pulley and finally found one at a junkyard for $5.
If you have access to a press of some kind, use it. You might even contact any local business that sells bearings (oddly enough, there really are place like that) and get one there. They may even be able to press out the old one and install the new one for you quick and easy.
It was in the long ago and far away, so I don't remember any parts numbers, but I do remember the guy behind the counter saying to himself, "Huh, it's the same one as on a Buick."
Aren't you glad you don't have the 3.0 LOL!
Old 12-11-2004, 08:10 AM
  #4  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
PirateFins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Smithsburg, Maryland
Posts: 1,958
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Well I bit the bullet and just got one from my buddy at the dealer, because I needed it right away. I want to replace the one for the AC belt so I will go the find a bearing route. The p/n on the bearing is NSK 6204-DDU. Does anyone know where I can get a cross reference for different bearing co's. I work in manufacturing and have the tools to get it done.
Roger is the AC tensioner the same size? If so I will get a bearing from you.
Old 12-11-2004, 08:14 AM
  #5  
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
 
4Crawler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 10,817
Likes: 0
Received 29 Likes on 26 Posts
There are usually 2 different size bearings used. The earlier engines use the small bearings on both pulleys. The later trucks use the larger bearing on at least the p/s idler. Not sure on the A/C idler, you might pop yours off and check it. It'll either be the same as what you have or smaller. All I need is either the bearing ID or OD to match up the right part.

I routinely pull my idler pulleys and clean and regrease those bearings every few years. Keeps them running smooth for a long time.

Last edited by 4Crawler; 12-11-2004 at 08:16 AM.
Old 12-11-2004, 09:24 AM
  #6  
Registered User
 
92 Toyota's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
For future referance this part # from Toyota will work-90099-10091.It's a alternater bearing that is the same size as the top tensioner pulley on a 92 22RE.I had the same problem on my old 92 & went to the dealer & the parts guy said you can only get the whole assembly at $130.So I said forget it I'll find a bearing elsewhere.When leaving a mechanic from there caught me & said order this bearing it will work because he did it on his 92.Sure enough it worked & I think I paid something like $5.
Old 10-26-2010, 07:24 AM
  #7  
Registered User
 
PETDOC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Walland, TN
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
For anyone worried they may not have the tools to replace the bearing it is pretty easy. Once you remove the pulley wheel, pull the little inner spacer out of the bearing, then remove the wire clip that is braced in a ridge inside the inner circumference of the pulley wheel. If you have a large right angle needle nose pliers this is easy, but it can be accomplished without one. Next get a socket that has the same diamenter of the inner race of the bearing and a oil filter cap wrench. Place the socket against the inner race of the bearing and the oil filter cap wrench on the other side of the pulley wheel. Place it all in a vice and just slowly close the vice until you hear the bearing pop out inside the oil cap filter wrench. To press in the new bearing get 2-3 washers that are slightly smaller than the outside of the outer race of the bearing. I usually push the bearing in as much as I can by hand and then level it with light taps with a rubber mallet or by gently compressing the high side with the vice. Once the bearing is level by sight, place the old bearing against the new one and slowly compress the two in the vice. Once the new bearing is flush with the surface of the pulley wheel replace the old bearing with the 2 to 3 washers and close the vice until the new bearing is totally seated in the pulley wheel. Then replace the wire clip--it really helps to either have a right angle needle nose pliers or a friend handy to do this.

Last edited by PETDOC; 10-26-2010 at 07:13 PM.
Old 10-26-2010, 05:41 PM
  #8  
Registered User
 
oregon taco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: oregon
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
how bad was the noise when you noticed it? mine has a subtle belt noise...kind of a clicking. did it sound worse than that?
Old 10-26-2010, 07:11 PM
  #9  
Registered User
 
PETDOC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Walland, TN
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by oregon taco
how bad was the noise when you noticed it? mine has a subtle belt noise...kind of a clicking. did it sound worse than that?
My PS tensioner pulley bearing gave out a very brief squeal, for which I had no idea of the source. About 5 days later a protracted squeal of about 5 seconds was followed by the acrid odor of burning rubber. The pulley was totally frozen. I loosened the tensioner and continued to have power steering as the belt slid over the frozen pulley, but I knew sooner or later the belt was going to break. It took me about 3 days to investigate possible fixes. Toyota parts guy quoted me $150 plus tax for the entire assembly and insisted they did not sell the bearing. I went to a bearing shop and purchased a replacement for $11.00.
Old 10-29-2010, 05:06 AM
  #10  
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
terminator's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 923
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Well if you had the 2.7 I have a brand new in the box Toyota PS tensioner assembly for $50 shipped. Bought it, sold the truck and found it during our move.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Flossy
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
0
08-05-2015 05:14 PM
yoterr
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
4
07-24-2015 04:29 AM
PlayAwhile
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
5
07-20-2015 11:36 AM
dinks07
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
0
07-15-2015 05:34 PM



Quick Reply: Tensioner Pulley gone bad



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 02:27 AM.