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Sunroof not sealing properly on 2nd gen 4Runner

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Old 02-03-2005, 09:36 AM
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Sunroof not sealing properly on 2nd gen 4Runner

This morning on the way to work I noticed a lot more wind noise coming from the sunroof. Once I got in I took a look at the top of the truck and noticed passenger's side rear corner of the sunroof is sagging and not making a proper seal with the roof. The motors and rails operate fine, but on that last "hump" when the sunroof lifts up to seal into the roof the rear passenger's side doesn't make it all the way, driver's side is fine...

Being in Seattle during winter a weather-proof sunroof is one of those mission-critical items. Anyone have similar problems? Is there a good guide on taking the sunroof apart and doing a DIY repair, or am I better off having this "professionally" fixed?

This is a '90 4Runner SR5. I'm hoping it's a matter of a bent spring or guide or clip or something, and not hundreds of $$$$ in repair costs.
Old 02-03-2005, 12:03 PM
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Duct tape.
Old 02-03-2005, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Flamedx4
Duct tape.
Nothing Works better then a Red Green fix.
Old 02-06-2005, 06:17 PM
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90,


PM me. I am in Japan and I have a broke (I MEAN BROKE DOWN) 92 w/sun roof.

Postage might cost you ...U.S. mail only as it is a military post office (APO/FPO) but I can promise the part will be dirt cheap, just let me know what parts you need

Dragon
Old 02-14-2005, 06:28 PM
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Sun Roof Repairs

4 RUNNER (HILUX SURF) GEN 2 SUN ROOF (SR)

If your SR stops working for some reason or it does not close all the way these steps will help you get the SR out of the truck and allow you to trouble shoot the mechanics. A quick trail fix for a SR that is stuck open or on a truck with no power would be to open the little flapper door next to the SR switch and try to manually close the SR with a flat blade screw driver, be prepared as closing a fully open SR takes quite a few turns. If you must get deeper into the SR than that then read on. It is very helpful and almost required to have someone else with you when you do this as the SR assembly is bulky and heavy if nothing else, they can always tell a joke or two and drink your beverages while you are working…..

The SR is operates as a basic screw drive, or if you will a worm gear. The motor engages two cables that are coiled into a long flexible screw or worm gear. Only the motor turns not the cables. These cables are molded to the rear mount bracket for the SR glass. The mounting brackets are placed in the slide frame which has two channels built in to it one inner and one outer. The cable for the left is uses the outside channel and the cable on the right uses the inner, which will become (respectfully) the front or forward most and the back or rear most on the front rail of the slide frame. To open the SR the motor turns in a clock wise direction which pushes the cables and SR back; so of course to close the motor turns counter clockwise and pulls the cables and SR forward. The length of cable required to open the SR is long and as the SR closes it routes the cable to the same channel on the opposite side of the frame. The SR glass mounting brackets have a squared S pin in them that hold a lightly sprung bar in place which in turn holds the SR in a firm and up position when closed allowing it to seal out the wind and rain. The pin travels under the bar as the first and last movement of the cable when opening and closing the SR. If you must remove the SR then take lots and lots of pictures they will help you get it back together

Open the rear window and tailgate
1. Remove the rear view mirror and map lights if installed
2. Remove the trim piece around the SR that holds the headliner to the SR frame.
3. Remove the plastic trim around the SR switch and flapper door (note 1)
4. Remove the sun visors
5. Remove the dome light
6. Remove all of the “OH BOY THIS IS GONNA BE FUN” handles
7. Remove all of the top seat belt anchor bolts
8. Remove all of the interior plastic side panels
9. Remove all plastic trim buttons holding the head liner in place
10. Remove the head liner
11. Remove the dome light wire from the SR assembly and tape it out of the way
12. Disconnect the SR motor and switch wires.
13. Disconnect the 4 drain hoses for the SR assembly (one at each corner)
14. Remove the two nuts on the front of the SR assembly
15. Put the front seats all the way forward with the back rests tilted all the way forward (note 2)
16. Remove the remaining ten bolts that hold the SR assembly to the roof WITH ALL OF THE RETAINING BOLTS REMOVED THE SR ASSY CAN FALL AND BREAK HAVE SOME ONE HOLD IT IN PLACE
17. Lower the SR assembly and remove it from the truck out the tailgate. Locate the SR assembly on a large workbench or table and protect the glass from starches with shop rags or a blanket (note 3)
18. With the SR assembly on the work bench with the top up remove the two bolts that hold the SR motor in place and remove the motor
19. Turn the SR assembly over so that is now top down
20. Remove the plastic trim that hides the edge of the SR glass only the left and right side are meant to be remove the front and back trim pieces are not meant for removal. (note 4)
21. Remove the 8 nuts that hold the SR glass to the SR assembly and remove the SR glass and place it some where safe
22. Place the SR assembly so that it is again top down remove the 4 Phillips screws that hold the spring loaded wind deflector in place. The wind deflector uses a bar type spring with a very light pressure.
23. Remove the remaining 5 Phillips screws and two bolts that hold the SR slide frame to the SR assembly drip pan (note 5)
24. Remove the SR sliding frame from the SR pan
25. Remove the Phillips screws holding the SR slide stops in place. Only remove one side at a time.
26. Remove the rear SR glass-mounting bracket and drive cable. As you remove this watch to cable move past the spot where the SR motor would be so that the cable can be routed correctly when you put it all back together.
27. Remove the front SR glass mounting bracket
Reverse these steps to put it back together. BENCH TEST THE OPERATION BEFORE INSTALLING IN THE TRUCK.

NOTE 1: I have broken every one of the that I have tried to remove, the spring that holds the flapper door closed is mounted to the same point that has the hold in place clip mounted to it. I have not been able to repair any of the ones I have broken BE CAREFUL you might get luckier than me

NOTE 2: The entire SR assembly weighs more than 50 pounds it can fall when all of the retaining bolts have been removed I have a knot on my head from this. HAVE SOMEONE OR SOMETHING TO HOLD IT IN PLACE until you are ready to lower it.

NOTE 3: All reference to direction and side are from the aspect of the SR as it is the truck.

NOTE 4: These plastic frames are very easy to break I MEAN VERY EASY. You might want to have the replacements on order already.

NOTE 5: Pay close attention to the SR stops that are mounted to the SR pan and not removable. Also once the slide frame is removed from the pan and can be damaged beyond use by bending or twisting. Again BE CAREFUL.

These directions are not from a FSM of any type, this is just what I had to do to get a SR out of a 2 GEN 4 RUNNER/HILUX SURF.

TOYOTA will am I sure assume no liability should you damage your truck or yourself.
While I am 99.9% sure Toyota will assume no liability I AM 100% POSITIVE THAT I WILL ASSUME NO LIABILITY (read that as 0 nada none zip zilch) should you damage your truck or yourself.
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