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Split second FTC1??

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Old 08-20-2011, 06:47 PM
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Im prety sure im gonna go the smart controller way cause I like the idea of being able to tun it to my likeings. Do I still need the wideband goin this route??
Old 08-20-2011, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by dmiller_time
Im prety sure im gonna go the smart controller way cause I like the idea of being able to tun it to my likeings. Do I still need the wideband goin this route??
For sure, the wideband is the only way to have any idea what the tune looks like or to do any tuning at all. The ECU takes care of the timing automatically Leaving only the AFR's for you to play with. So you have to know what they are to mess with them.
Old 08-20-2011, 06:55 PM
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I figured it was somethin along them lines. I ask alot of questions cause I dont wanna mess up and get the wrong stuf or somethin I dont have to have. Ill let ya know when I get the kits cause im sure Ill have questions about setinng it up. You actually tune it from inside the cab with the controller and dont really need the lab top for tuning it do you.
Old 08-20-2011, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by dmiller_time
I figured it was somethin along them lines. I ask alot of questions cause I dont wanna mess up and get the wrong stuf or somethin I dont have to have. Ill let ya know when I get the kits cause im sure Ill have questions about setinng it up. You actually tune it from inside the cab with the controller and dont really need the lab top for tuning it do you.
If you just get the basic CMGS setup all the tuning is done with 2 knobs. Fine tuning can be done with adjusting the water/meth mix (or vice versa depending on how you look at it).

If you get the smart controller then you will need a laptop to tune it and it is much more involved.

Honestly for most people just the basic CMGS kit is fine but if you have the know how the smart controller is not a bad buy. Can always disable it with the twisting of a few knobs on the fly if needed and revert back to the simple setup.
Old 08-22-2011, 05:38 PM
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Witch wideband afr to go with?? I see there is a bunch of diff types in diff price ranges from 100-300 bucks. I dont need all the fancy lights on them so wats the differance in them other than the perty lights on em?? Can I just get the 100 dollar one and it be just as accurate as the 300 dollar one. Looks like they all come with the same 02 sensor.
Old 08-22-2011, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by dmiller_time
Witch wideband afr to go with?? I see there is a bunch of diff types in diff price ranges from 100-300 bucks. I dont need all the fancy lights on them so wats the differance in them other than the perty lights on em?? Can I just get the 100 dollar one and it be just as accurate as the 300 dollar one. Looks like they all come with the same 02 sensor.
I have only had personal experience with a few that are no longer sold and the LC-1 and AEM units.

Not a big fan of the LC-1 since it went through 4 sensors in as many months on me. The AEM has been working like a champ in my 4runner but the sensor costs more if i do have to replace it.

Normally not a fan of AEM but in this case it has been working ok.

There are a lot of new widebands out in the last year that are supposed to be pretty good but i don't have any personal experience. Have to do some google search for reviews on them.

Buy whatever is in your price range and gets good reviews IMO.
Old 08-22-2011, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Texas_Ace
I have only had personal experience with a few that are no longer sold and the LC-1 and AEM units.

Not a big fan of the LC-1 since it went through 4 sensors in as many months on me. The AEM has been working like a champ in my 4runner but the sensor costs more if i do have to replace it.

Normally not a fan of AEM but in this case it has been working ok.

There are a lot of new widebands out in the last year that are supposed to be pretty good but i don't have any personal experience. Have to do some google search for reviews on them.

Buy whatever is in your price range and gets good reviews IMO.
really? I have not had any trouble with my LC-1 yet. And its been over a year.
Old 08-22-2011, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by vital22re
really? I have not had any trouble with my LC-1 yet. And its been over a year.
It was installed on my MR2 and it might have just been a bad unit but others have had the same problem. It is hit or miss though.
Old 08-25-2011, 06:02 PM
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I found a aem wideband on ebay thats 8.5-18:1 afr. Just makin sure this will work. and, bout what should the air fule ration be on this truck??
Old 08-25-2011, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by dmiller_time
I found a aem wideband on ebay thats 8.5-18:1 afr. Just makin sure this will work. and, bout what should the air fule ration be on this truck??
Yeah, basically any real wideband will work.

AFR's will be around 14.7 under cruise and other closed loop conditions.

Under boost you want AFR's in the high 11's.
Old 08-28-2011, 01:45 PM
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I ordered the cmgs stage 2 kit and a wideband friday. Hope its gonna be here sometime this week. I was thinkin earlier bout what meth does to your motor so I searced it and found out somethin about it takes its toll on the aluminum componets of the engine over time. Im definatly not plainin on runnin 100% meth through this kit but what are the side effects to runnin a meth kit over say, 50k miles with it installed?? Are there gonna be any. How long has your kit been on yor runner???
Old 08-28-2011, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by dmiller_time
I ordered the cmgs stage 2 kit and a wideband friday. Hope its gonna be here sometime this week. I was thinkin earlier bout what meth does to your motor so I searced it and found out somethin about it takes its toll on the aluminum componets of the engine over time. Im definatly not plainin on runnin 100% meth through this kit but what are the side effects to runnin a meth kit over say, 50k miles with it installed?? Are there gonna be any. How long has your kit been on yor runner???
That is complete myth, just like people say that E85 will eat your stock fuel system (proven false many many many times). Or that synthetic oil is worse then dino or will hurt your engine.

People have long ago proven that meth won't hurt a darn thing. It will clean everything up nice and purrdy over time though.

I tested this a few years ago by putting some aluminum, rubber and some other stuff in methanol and letting it sit for over a year. When i pulled them out they were very clean but otherwise unchanged from how i put them in.

Now over 25 years, yeah you might see a little corrosion but who will still be driving the same car 25 years from now? Even then i doubt it would be much damage or effect anything.

In other words, don't worry about it, it is just a myth that floats around and some people will not let die.
Old 08-29-2011, 02:59 PM
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What plugs should I be runnin?? I see alot of ppl say the denso ik22. When I changed the plugs in it a few weeks ago I got them from advanced auto and told them I wanted 2 step cooler iridium plugs. He told me they were but he could have just been sayin that also.
Old 08-29-2011, 03:06 PM
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The IK22 is a fine plug, i have used a few different kinds. I forgot which one worked the best. It was either an NGK or the IK22. IK22 is a proven plug that works fine though.
Old 08-30-2011, 03:05 PM
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got my kit in today and I was lookin at where to put the tank under the hood and thats not gonna happen. How exactly did you use your washerfluid resivor?? Being that its already got stuff runnin to it and holes already in the bottom??
Old 08-30-2011, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by dmiller_time
got my kit in today and I was lookin at where to put the tank under the hood and thats not gonna happen. How exactly did you use your washerfluid resivor?? Being that its already got stuff runnin to it and holes already in the bottom??
Yeah, there is no room under the hood, it is either trunk mount or using the washer fluid reservoir. Trunk mount will give you more fluid capacity the washer fluid tank is less intrusive.

This video gives you a good explanation of how i used the tank:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYBOl...el_video_title

The only thing not shown is the level sensor, I kinda point to it but once you pull the tank out you will see where It can fit, it is the only flat spot in that area.

In that spot with my sensor when the sensor trips i have about 1/2 a gallon of fluid left.
Old 08-30-2011, 04:50 PM
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Thanks man im done for the night, got the tank tapped and the conector in it. did you hook your washer fluid plug back up?? is it operational with the meth?? Also I dont think I got a level sensor with this kit.
Old 08-30-2011, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by dmiller_time
Thanks man im done for the night, got the tank tapped and the conector in it. did you hook your washer fluid plug back up?? is it operational with the meth?? Also I dont think I got a level sensor with this kit.
Yep, didn't touch the washer fluid system, works just like stock. Even with 100% meth.
Old 08-31-2011, 02:51 PM
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Should I only have one line and no wires going into the bottom of the resivor with the cmgs stage 2 kit, correct?? Since there is no fail safe or anyother thing I see that could go there.
Old 08-31-2011, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by dmiller_time
Should I only have one line and no wires going into the bottom of the resivor with the cmgs stage 2 kit, correct?? Since there is no fail safe or anyother thing I see that could go there.
Yes, unless you get a level switch (which i highly recommend) all you need is the feed fitting for the pump going to the bottom of the washer tank.

Here is a lot of 5 level switches for $12 as an example. The CMGS already has the ability to use it, you just need to hook it up.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5Water-Level...item27bdb39092

I am sure there are single switches out there i just didn't look.


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