Removing Supercharger. Questions..
#1
Removing Supercharger. Questions..
I plan to remove the supercharger until I can get the supportive mods done. Unfortunately, I purchased it with it already installed. Can anyone give me an idea how difficult it is to swap (so I know how much time to set aside), and perhaps things to watch out for?..Looks like the IM is a three piece affair (upper, intermediate, lower).
I am decent with a wrench (I've swapped trannys, and have done most of the standard types of repair with the exception of internal engine stuff). Is there anything else I should do while I have it off? Definately going to do the spark plugs, and the tstat may be easier as well..Also, if anyone has a stock intake manifold I'd be interested in buying...Thoughts/comments welcome..
BTW its the 5VZFE eng, of course..Automatic, SR5 with 108K miles...
I am decent with a wrench (I've swapped trannys, and have done most of the standard types of repair with the exception of internal engine stuff). Is there anything else I should do while I have it off? Definately going to do the spark plugs, and the tstat may be easier as well..Also, if anyone has a stock intake manifold I'd be interested in buying...Thoughts/comments welcome..
BTW its the 5VZFE eng, of course..Automatic, SR5 with 108K miles...
#2
Registered User
Wow... FIRST OFF - HUGE kudos to you for doing this. WOW. Respect man.
The swap is VERY easy.. the IM (well, the intake plenum) is just two pieces, top and bottom. Not sure what you;'re seeing as the middle piece, possibly a pick of a turbo'd 5VZFE with the URD port fueler? That's 3 pieces.
Anyway, here are the install directions for the SC, it should give you a decent idea of what's up to pull it off:
http://customtacos.com/tech/index.php?article=45
Take a wander through there and let us know if you have more questions.
The swap is VERY easy.. the IM (well, the intake plenum) is just two pieces, top and bottom. Not sure what you;'re seeing as the middle piece, possibly a pick of a turbo'd 5VZFE with the URD port fueler? That's 3 pieces.
Anyway, here are the install directions for the SC, it should give you a decent idea of what's up to pull it off:
http://customtacos.com/tech/index.php?article=45
Take a wander through there and let us know if you have more questions.
#3
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Join Date: Sep 2005
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dumb question, can you just pull the scroll and take the belt off? it would suck air through the empty housing then. not sure if that would work, but its an idea.
#5
Contributing Member
Gideon's doing the right thing by removing it and installing the N/A intake.
#6
Registered User
Gideon, you're gonna hate how it runs with the headers and larger exhaust while NA. I drove like that for a while and it wasn't a lot of fun.
The powerband will shift down about 800rpm and there's not enough oomph in the NA engine to generate enough torque down there so it lugs.
It would help to find a way to create more backpressure in the system - maybe just replace the tail pipe with 2.25" tubing.
#7
Midiwall, Thanks for the link and comments. I didn't realize that the header/exhaust would tank the low end power so much..Well, we do what we have to...Overall power should still be better with the header/exhaust, correct? Essentially they move the peak powerband down 800RPM? Where is the peak power on a stock NA?
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#9
Registered User
Well, we do what we have to...Overall power should still be better with the header/exhaust, correct? Essentially they move the peak powerband down 800RPM? Where is the peak power on a stock NA?
Think in terms of how a SC works and why the powerband is different than a turbo. The SC comes on low since it's belt driven, a turbo will come on later since it needs exhaust pressure.
Headers are a great match for the SC 'cause the SC will start generating power sooner than NA, so the headers are tuned to help that. The headers open up the exhaust stream so that you can get more out of the cylinders in a shorter time. The downside of opening up the pipe is that less natural scavenging will occur, and clearing the cylinder will rely more on the added pressure in the cylinder that was created on the intake stroke.
Now, if you take away the boost then what happens is that scavenging doesn't happen as efficiently, so exhaust gases remain in the cylinder which interferes with the combustion efficiency of the next load of fuel.
The larger exhaust hurts this as well since it's also taking away from the scavenging effect.
So, finding some way to create more backpressure should bring back the scavenging, and I think you can do that easily by shrinking the tail pipe. hmmm... I hear myself say that again and it makes sense, but hopefully someone else will chime in as well.
#10
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Join Date: May 2002
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My 4Runner's tank holds 18.5 gal, and at 1/4 tank it takes 12 gal to fill. I run the tank to 1/4 and add one 12oz bottle and 6 gals of gas for a 1:1 ratio. Then I run the tank again to 1/4, add a second bottle and fill the tank. Again the 1:1 ratio. I usually do this about twice a year. Since I haven't cleaned the fuel system in about a year, this time I will add a third bottle again at 1/4 and fill the tank.
I'm not saying that you shouldn't do the mods, I just chose not to. If this conservative approach works for you, you maybe be able to use the money you were going to spend on the swap to start your mods.
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