Post what you paid for Lockers\Posi ...
#21
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Okay, so ARB looks like the way to go, right? Who has the best right ups then for the ARB install? Is this a do-it-yourself project with the proper instructions? Thanks for the info
Chris
Chris
#22
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Definitely not a DIY job, unless you are an experienced Toy mechanic with an inch pound torque wrench, a dial indicator and a bearing press.
Both ARB and the E-locker replace the carrier and require gear set-up to install. The E-locker requires housing mods. The ARB requires a single tapped hole in the third.
Both ARB and the E-locker replace the carrier and require gear set-up to install. The E-locker requires housing mods. The ARB requires a single tapped hole in the third.
#23
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Originally posted by Flygtenstein
Both ARB and the E-locker replace the carrier and require gear set-up to install. The E-locker requires housing mods. The ARB requires a single tapped hole in the third.
Both ARB and the E-locker replace the carrier and require gear set-up to install. The E-locker requires housing mods. The ARB requires a single tapped hole in the third.
IMO, it's a toss-up... ARB requires gear setup, E-locker requires housing mods.
#25
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If you buy a factory e-locker, the gears come properly set up from the factory. Just perform the housing mods and bolt it in. Same deal if you're getting one from a junkyard... E-locker requires gear set-up only if you're regearing.
IMO, it's a toss-up... ARB requires gear setup, E-locker requires housing mods.
My bad, you can get complete units for either locker, I meant to point out they are both full case lockers and not lunchbox lockers.
Maybe my e-locker envy kicked in.
IMO, it's a toss-up... ARB requires gear setup, E-locker requires housing mods.
My bad, you can get complete units for either locker, I meant to point out they are both full case lockers and not lunchbox lockers.
Maybe my e-locker envy kicked in.
#26
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Originally posted by ravencr
Thanks guys! How much should an install cost for front and rear ARB's? Any ideas on what's reasonable?
Thanks guys! How much should an install cost for front and rear ARB's? Any ideas on what's reasonable?
I've been going through the whole e-locker vs arb rear debate as well. I've settled on doing the rear e-locker and arb front. I found a rear e-locker with 4.30s for $400. I've also seen a whole rear e-locker + axle housing for around $700. I'm still undecided about the front and am leaning toward finding a used third with 4.30s so I can have the ARB installed and then just swap thirds.
#27
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ARB w / Compressor: $800.00
Install: $300.00 (by a local shop that unfortunately is closing)
So, total: $1100.00 for a really nice rear locker and install.
Most expensive single and by far the best mod so far...
Mike
Install: $300.00 (by a local shop that unfortunately is closing)
So, total: $1100.00 for a really nice rear locker and install.
Most expensive single and by far the best mod so far...
Mike
#28
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Originally posted by Flygtenstein
Both ARB and the E-locker replace the carrier
Both ARB and the E-locker replace the carrier
#29
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Originally posted by Flygtenstein
If you buy a factory e-locker, the gears come properly set up from the factory. Just perform the housing mods and bolt it in. Same deal if you're getting one from a junkyard... E-locker requires gear set-up only if you're regearing.
If you buy a factory e-locker, the gears come properly set up from the factory. Just perform the housing mods and bolt it in. Same deal if you're getting one from a junkyard... E-locker requires gear set-up only if you're regearing.
#30
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You keep just mentioning the "drivetrain" parts for the elocker (except phong), but how much are you all paying for the solenoid to get it to work correctly? Or is there a way around buying ecu, solenoid. etc.... You know, a cheap man's solution??? I've read a number of acrticles but haven't found one yet. I've got a 2nd gen the idea of slapping another ecu in there doesn't overly thrill me.
#31
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Originally posted by yoda-g2
You keep just mentioning the "drivetrain" parts for the elocker (except phong), but how much are you all paying for the solenoid to get it to work correctly? Or is there a way around buying ecu, solenoid. etc.... You know, a cheap man's solution??? I've read a number of acrticles but haven't found one yet. I've got a 2nd gen the idea of slapping another ecu in there doesn't overly thrill me.
You keep just mentioning the "drivetrain" parts for the elocker (except phong), but how much are you all paying for the solenoid to get it to work correctly? Or is there a way around buying ecu, solenoid. etc.... You know, a cheap man's solution??? I've read a number of acrticles but haven't found one yet. I've got a 2nd gen the idea of slapping another ecu in there doesn't overly thrill me.
This is included as part of the write up on 4x4 wire.
I struggled to get it to work. I got it going, then my bootyfabbed exhaust fell apart and cooked the wires. I really want the manual cable actuator for them made by Downey.
Last edited by jx94148; 02-17-2003 at 10:03 PM.
#32
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A third member holds the carrier which in turn holds the ring and the pinion. Common in Toy diffs and the 9" Ford. Also called chunk, hogshead, centersection and assorted other cuss words when it lands on your fingers.
The housing is what you put the third into. "Required housing mods" is a common phrase with e-locker installs. Truncated it becomes an axle, while a housing and a third are together it is a "complete axle."
"Lunchbox lockers" like EZ-Locker and Lockright replace the spider gears, unlike the Detroit, ARB and E-locker that replace the whole carrier and are inherently stronger.
An E-locker requires modifications of the housing, removal and replacement of a couple of the studs and a notching of the housing to accept the e-locker motor. Phong's site does an excellent job of illustrating this point.
An ARB requires a single hole in the third to run the air line out to the compressor.
Kudos to Phong for his hardwork and excellent documentation of the E-locker work. I am an advocate of the ARB and buying a complete third with it already installed, just as you would an E-locker.
Probably another thread killer, oh well.
The housing is what you put the third into. "Required housing mods" is a common phrase with e-locker installs. Truncated it becomes an axle, while a housing and a third are together it is a "complete axle."
"Lunchbox lockers" like EZ-Locker and Lockright replace the spider gears, unlike the Detroit, ARB and E-locker that replace the whole carrier and are inherently stronger.
An E-locker requires modifications of the housing, removal and replacement of a couple of the studs and a notching of the housing to accept the e-locker motor. Phong's site does an excellent job of illustrating this point.
An ARB requires a single hole in the third to run the air line out to the compressor.
Kudos to Phong for his hardwork and excellent documentation of the E-locker work. I am an advocate of the ARB and buying a complete third with it already installed, just as you would an E-locker.
Probably another thread killer, oh well.
#33
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Originally posted by Flygtenstein
A third member holds the carrier which in turn holds the ring and the pinion. Common in Toy diffs and the 9" Ford. Also called chunk, hogshead, centersection and assorted other cuss words when it lands on your fingers.
A third member holds the carrier which in turn holds the ring and the pinion. Common in Toy diffs and the 9" Ford. Also called chunk, hogshead, centersection and assorted other cuss words when it lands on your fingers.
#34
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Originally posted by Cebby
I have a good shop that can mess with the gearing, and even do conventional lockers and LSD's but I have yet to ask them if they can do or are willing to do the ARB.
I have a good shop that can mess with the gearing, and even do conventional lockers and LSD's but I have yet to ask them if they can do or are willing to do the ARB.
#35
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I recently installed a Detroit soft locker in my 2nd gen. I am loving it. It has greatly improed my trucks climbing skills.
Costs:
Detroit--$405.
Master install kit--$125.
Mechanic buddy install--$100.
By far the best mod for my truck..I highly recommend it.
Costs:
Detroit--$405.
Master install kit--$125.
Mechanic buddy install--$100.
By far the best mod for my truck..I highly recommend it.
#36
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Factory E-Locker installed when the truck was built: $340.00
Front ARB RD90 & Compressor: $0.00 (I built Kongs an online store and this was payment)
Now the cost of manual hubs is another story..................
But the install cost was "negotiated" as well.
Front ARB RD90 & Compressor: $0.00 (I built Kongs an online store and this was payment)
Now the cost of manual hubs is another story..................
But the install cost was "negotiated" as well.
#37
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Originally posted by Cebby
I dropped off reprints of the articles from 4x4wire on the Isuzu and Toyota install of the ARB. He's looking at it. I need to check in a couple of days. I hope he can do it. I've seen ARB's for $618 recently.
I dropped off reprints of the articles from 4x4wire on the Isuzu and Toyota install of the ARB. He's looking at it. I need to check in a couple of days. I hope he can do it. I've seen ARB's for $618 recently.
Now to pool the funds...
#38
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ARB Prices
The $550 price from Rusty's was a while ago. Prices are now listed as $590 for a few common diffs and I'd hope he could get the same price for the Toyota. Yes, the locker comes with a solenoid. You'll just have to get an air tank and 85-100 psi pressure swith to go with your non-arb compressor. You can also get a matching ARB compressor dash switch for around $12 to match the air locker switch that comes with the locker.
Last edited by transalper; 03-19-2003 at 01:20 PM.
#39
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Originally posted by yoda-g2
You keep just mentioning the "drivetrain" parts for the elocker (except phong), but how much are you all paying for the solenoid to get it to work correctly? Or is there a way around buying ecu, solenoid. etc.... You know, a cheap man's solution???
You keep just mentioning the "drivetrain" parts for the elocker (except phong), but how much are you all paying for the solenoid to get it to work correctly? Or is there a way around buying ecu, solenoid. etc.... You know, a cheap man's solution???
#40
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Best price I found for ARB front and rear plus compressor and install in Missouri.
Lockers 650 @
Compressor 185
Install 200@
Got the dealer list from ARB and talked to each one
and am not comfortable with any of these shops doing the install based on my discussions with them. My truck only has 3500 miles on it and am not willing to turn it over to just anyone to screw it up. Have heard some horror stories about things gone wrong.
Major stress, having the money ready and wanting to get it done now, but too paranoid.
Lockers 650 @
Compressor 185
Install 200@
Got the dealer list from ARB and talked to each one
and am not comfortable with any of these shops doing the install based on my discussions with them. My truck only has 3500 miles on it and am not willing to turn it over to just anyone to screw it up. Have heard some horror stories about things gone wrong.
Major stress, having the money ready and wanting to get it done now, but too paranoid.