WATRD

Because after all, it would be impossible for you to ever be mistaken about anything...

From the very page you cite as your expert opinion...

Quote:

Thicker is Better Myth
The reason that oil viscosities have gotten thinner is because bearing clearances have become smaller. Using thicker oils will interfere with oil flow and the oil pressure will increase.

And

I also own and have read the full "Motor Oil Bible" as well as having done extensive reading on "Bob is the oil guy", both of which are more commonly accepted than the site you directed me to and as it happens, both of which agree with the quotes from your "expert" site above.

But, you know what, as I mentioned earlier, I am done. As witnessed by your post history, you have an ego the size of Texas (appologies to Texans) and nothing that is contrary to your OPINION could ever be found to be true in your mind.

Don't bother replying, I am pleased say that you are the second person in my time at YotaTech to make my ignore list and I will not be seeing any more of your posts. I just hope that you don't manage to misguide too many noobies with your misinformation.

Based upon the reaction you have received on this forum, I would think you would wise up, but that seems beyond your capacity. Perhaps if a few more people follow my lead, you will wander off to find another forum where ego carries more weight than knowledge and where others will have the same over inflated opinion of you that you see to to have of yourself.

In looking through your posts, I don't see a single one with what I would call vaulable information and very few that have anything at all to do with wheeling, so you don't really have anything I am going to miss.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

I like the unedited version better Rob!

And I agree with it!

Tomsriv

I agree, often times high mileage engines have piston slap, bearing related noises or lifter noises which will quiet down when you run a thicker oil. The thicker oil gives more cushion.

And BTW 20w-50 is a 20 weight with the heat resistance of a 50 weight oil. It is not 20 when it is cold and 50 when it is hot. I always run 20w-50 Valvoline in my 71 Buick Riviera w/455. The tolerances are wider in this motor and it is always under a heavy load (4500lb car). I run 10w-30 in my 4runner and not 5w-30 because it is under a heavy load (2.7L to pull 3500lbs).

WATRD

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm et al.

http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm

http://www.valvoline.com/carcare/art...1ov&section=hm

94x4

Saying it does'nt make it so, Rob, but if it offers your apparently injured ego some solace, then please, by all means go ahead with my sympathies.

You go on to comment that "...it would be impossible for (me) to ever be mistaken about anything", apparently because of my "...ego the size of Texas".

Yet in this very thread one can readily contradict your claim by looking at my previous post wherein I not only admit that I had mispelled two words, but also thanked you for pointing out my "grammatical errors"..., now what does that in and of itself say about your character, not to mention, alleged intellect?! (You have been SERVED!)

It is also worth mentioning your comments about my being the "second person in (your) time at YotaTech to make (your) ignore list..." Don't these words sound familiar to you? They are the very ones that you said to me in a previous thread wherein we had our first confrontation in which you, by the way, got OWNED! Yet here you are responding to and attacking me again..., redundance is a sign of ignorance, Rob.

Suffice it to say that I don't know why you turned this into a personal attack against me, perhaps to coddle that no doubt bruised ego of yours from our previous confrontation, but let you be warned that if that's what you want, then I am well up to it, as you can see.

Lastly, I am neither perfect nor all knowing & even the best fall down sometimes, at least I admit when I've made a mistake and endeavour to correct it. You could possibly take into consideration the fourth line of my signature to help you by perhaps applying it to your no doubt daily struggles in life.

94x4

"Thicker is Better Myth

In a worn engine it may be o'kay to increase the viscosity because the bearing clearances have become larger."


Yes, it is true that those comments you've mentioned are found in the site I've referenced, just as is my quote above. Yet any trully intelligent person would agree that the only way for one to reach a trully informed conclusion about anything is to take a wholly unbiased look at all sides of an equation before forming an opinion and that is what was done in the article "Motor Oil Myths and Facts".

Only the narrow-visioned or weak of mind look at only one side of the equation and so, their opinions or views end up somewhat canted and leave the viewer considerably sleighted.

Back on topic, might I suggest that owners of Toyota vehicles from the model years of 1997 through 2002 take a look at the links under "Toyota Sludge" from the self same article referenced herein for some very helpful information about some possible free maintenance for your cars.

In closing, might I suggest that you do as you've suggested, Rob, and go off somewhere else at least long enough for you to acquire the mental acuity to take on someone of my, as you've proffessed, intellectual aptitude because your's is obviously lacking.

4-RUNNIN' FREAK

I cannot find what you speak of.

Nevermind... http://www.toyota.com/about/news/pro...-consumer.html

and


http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/...ota-sludge.htm

I didn't scroll down that far. I just read something bout the V6. But it's the 3.0.

94x4

Try typing "Motor Oil Myths and Facts" into your browser window and then scroll to what you're looking for.

p.s. The links are towards/at the bottom.

AxleIke

Well, we've got a 22-RTE running 20W-50, but only because that thing is blowing oil past the rings so bad you'd think a coal burning power plant had just opened up...
Running a thicker oil can actually make your engine leak because it can push the oil pressure too high, but it's not super common, just a possiblity...

If you want better lubrication, you can always switch to synthetic brands, cost's more, but they work a whole lot better

I have a 22RE, and every mechanic i've ever talked to says 10W-30 or 10W-40 for this engine, NOT 5W-30. It's also what is recomended in the manuel. 5W-30 is run in the 3.4 all the time, and that is what's recomended for that engine. I'd say that unless you're engine is basically crapping oil out the tail pipe, i'd stay int eh 10-40 range, but thats only my opinion...

I just got a long block...sorry to say, but it's a pretty penny if you go to the right people, around 2K just for the motor

mike87

ok ok so about 1-2k ? for a motor, no need to argue forget the oil... how much is a rebuild kit then? i guess i could get off my and go to westbay or autozone and look for myself

AxleIke

Well, a rebuilt kit is going to be significantly less, but most of them are just new seals, gaskets, rings...etc...and it's pretty hard to to a rebuild without some rather specialized tools...You can leave it in the truck, but it is really difficult to do it that way...an engine hoist, and stand are almost nessesary. If youve gotten that far apart, you may be wanting to have the block machined, or other things, so that will cost you more too...all depends on how long you can have the truck out of commission for

mike87

yeah my v8 350 in my camaro we rebuilt that slowly but it didnt seem to cost alot ... ofcoarse it seems like EFI engines cost alot more to rebuild

Tomsriv

[QUOTE=WATRD]Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot. QUOTE]

Basically what I said, it doesn't change weight, it just has the heat resistance of a heavier weight oil.

kyle_22r

22R/22R-E engines are dirt cheap to rebuild. engnbldr sells a master set for the '85-95 22R/22R-E for under $220. tear down the engine, remove the pistons from the rods(pull the c-clips from the wrist pin and dunk them in hot water, then push the pins out), and take the block, crank, head, and rods to the shop and have everything mic'd out and prepped. usually runs about $200-300 for all that work. they can tell you what over/undersizes you need to order for your master kit. putting one of these together isn't too bad at all.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

I investigated the dirt cheap method and just didn't like the looks of it. I wanted something that would get rebuilt once and last forever so I went with all OEM parts. Cost more, but if it had lasted 160-170K the first time, now that I know what has been done to it and taking care of it myself and using synthetic fluids, it'll last at least as long if not longer, hopefully forever. While there is something to be said for cheap, I much more prefer right. If you can get both, great...go for it.

Keep us posted.

94x4

Not intending to post a dissenting opinion and risk possibly incurring the wrath of yet another YOTATECH member, I'll unfortunately have to go with the suggested usage of an rebuild kit from "www.engnbldr.com" who I first heard about through Roger Brown, aka, 4Crawler here on the site, but has his own site at www.4crawler.com, and is the undisputed expert across all Toyota forums when it comes to the early model 'Yota's.

Inasmuch as this is so, I don't see how you could go wrong and would further suggest that you attempt contacting him directly for input and/or guidance on your project.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

I'll agree to disagree. You have your opinion and I have mine. I stated mine as such. You could have just simply stated that you like the engnbldr kit and for what reason. There was no reason to make a smart arse comment...simply immature and sad.

94x4

Not meaning "to make a smart arse comment" there waskilly, merely trying to cover the bases in an attempt to put out any potential residual fires:fireman:as you were of an agreeing dissenting opinion with WATRD on a previous topic.

Additionally, inasmuch as the self same antagonist had accused me of posting without supporting links to information to backup my claims, I thought I'd cover that base this time around in order to avoid another potential onslaught of derrogatory remarks.

Given the aforementioned, as well as the exchange previously in this thread that anyone can readily view for themselves and come to their own conclusions, I find it hard to see how one would consider my post as "smart arse"..., rather, I believe that it would be percieved for what it is: someone cautiously attempting to respond with a validated referral in a manner to avoid stepping on anyone's toes and pissing someone else off merely because they were pointing out the obvious.

So who is it that looks "immature and sad" now?

RuffRider

Mike, switching to 20W-50 shouldn't cause power loss unless you are living in Bemidji, MN in the winter. While 20W-50 may or may not be the optimal fit your engine I wouldn't look to the oil as root cause.

If your engine is still in close tolerance using heavy oils in cold weather can cause piston scuff and other side effects but it isn't likely that you would notice a performance degradation. It would likely happen within the first 10 minutes of running and only in cold weather.

I spent 10 (often frustrating) years as a powertrain engineer and most oils these days are chosen to enable the manufacturer to pass cold start emissions tests and score points with CAFE. Engine Failure Analysis never listed incorrect viscosity of engine oil even in the top 35 causes for premature failure. Most engine failures come from people that never open the hood for the first 50-75K miles.