MadCityRich

Hey Yotatechers,

I just installed 199mm Tundra brakes on my 2002 4Runner Limited. All I've done so far is a test drive. I have a couple of questions:

1) There seems to be a lot of pedal travel. I bled all the brakes with a pressure bleeder, but did not located a load proportioning valve. Does this part exist on a 2002 4runner?

2) Like I said, I'm feeling a lot of pedal travel. I stop just fine when I press a bit further, but it is a different feel. Is that normal going to the 199mm brakes?

From what I could tell, the main difference with the Tundra 199mm vs the stock brakes is that the rotor weighs about double what the 4runner rotor weighed. My 4runner rotor was about 10 lbs and the Tundra rotor was about 20 lbs. No way the wear from the stock brakes could account for that difference. I suspect much heavier duty materials in the Tundra rotor.

Other than that, the caliper is a bit wider and it appears the caliper pistons have a slighly wider diameter, but I didn't measure.

No more brake pulsation, at least.

Thanks for the help!

MadCityRich
2002 4Runner Ltd.
199mm Tundra brakes
poly steering bushings

UNR.Grad

When I did mine, it was a little soft at first and the pedal travel was also longer. It tightened up after a couple days, did you bed them properly?

yamataco

I did the 199mm Tundra brakes on my Taco, the pedal felt just a tiny bit softer when sitting still but the brakes are so much stronger that when driving it uses less travel. Bed them in, and check your bleed if the feel isn't good soon.

eric-the-red

I also found more pedal travel when I put the Tundra brakes on my 2001 4Runner. Don't know if it got better or I just got used to it but I don't seem to notice any more.

MadCityRich

Does a 2002 4Runner have a load proportioning valve?

I'd like to rebleed the brakes after a few days, but don't want to miss this piece, if it exists.

Thanks,
MadCityRich

eric-the-red

No it doesn't. Make sure when you bleed the rear the ignition is turned on, so that the booster pump operates. Otherwise you won't get any pressure at the rear brakes.

MadCityRich

I did not do that! Could explain a lot. I will rebleed with the ignition turned on.

MadCityRich
2002 4Runner Ltd.
Tundra Brakes
Poly steering bushings

MadCityRich

Actually, if you use a pressure bleeder, is it still necessary to have the ignition turned on?

MadCityRich

eric-the-red

Looking at this post I guess not.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...leeding+motive

Maybe try PMing GSGALLANT, I think he knows more about the brake system on 01-02 Runners than Toyota does

mjwalfredo

Sorry, don't want to Hijack but I wanted to verify that this is only for the 01 & 02 years. My 97' will still develop pressure for the rears without the ignition in the on position? Is it still better to bleed with ignition on anyway?

eric-the-red

Yes, it's only for the 01 & 02, in 3rd gen Runners, don't know about the 4th gen. That's because the brake booster is not vacuum, it has an electric motor to supply boost. There's no need to have the ignition on for 2000 and older.

profuse007

i think an upgraded master cylinder would do the trick.

d0ubledown

which did you bleed first? rears or fronts? i did rears first and also got a bit more travel...as if there was still air in it. i cant remember the source, but read that the fsm calls for the fronts to be bled first..then the rears? i did that..n all seems fine now. also, SS brakelines also help...although i dont have any. yet.

MadCityRich

MUCH BETTER!

I used the following procedure for bleeding the brakes. This is definitely the proper way to bleed brakes on an '01 or '02 3rd Gen. This came from a thread dealing with brake bleeding. Apparently it is as described in the FSM.

The only think I would add is that during the bleeding, the key is in the "off" position. For the rears, I bled the right rear first (not at the same time as in above).

My new Tundra brakes are much better. Like they should be. I have lots of control, but if I need to stop fast, they stop me very fast, with less effort than the stock brakes. I did do the proper bed-in procedure.

Thank you Yotatech braintrust! You gave me the Tundra brake solution, you helped me bed the brakes properly, and helped me bleed the brakes properly. You even gave me the Motive Power Bleeded adapter adapter mod. Worked like a charm. I even cleaned my MAF "while I was in there." My 4Runner thanks you, too.

MadCityRich
2002 4Runner Ltd.
Tundra brakes
Poly steering bushings

coot

I would like to possibly do this as well and I noticed that there a few different variants that are out for the tundra depending on the year. Does anyone know what tundra brake caliper and rotor would work for an 04 taco?

Coot

MadCityRich

My stuff was based on a 2002 Tundra V8. Casting S13WE. Something like that. That should work fine for a Taco, too. Some of the write-ups suggest that some modification is needed for the Taco brake line to fit into the Tundra. I can't say.

This would not work for 15 inch wheels. But I assume your are larger.

HTH,

MadCityRich

UNR.Grad

Everything you need is in this link, good luck

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/tundra-brake-upgrade-onto-tacoma-s13we-100145/

frodin1

Question? Does that write up above apply to the Runners also? I also read somwhere the other day that you shouldn't use anything other than Toyota components. Does anyone else have any feedback pertaining to this? I'd like to do this upgrade but the with writeups on Taco's and Runners. I'm kind of unclear if they both apply in the same way? I really don't want to drop twice or three times as much if I have to use Toyota parts only.

UNR.Grad

This is the general consensus on what to use:

Rotors: Brembo blanks
Calipers: Used, low-mileage 199mm (S13WE casting) tundra calipers, rebuild some higher mileage used calipers, or just buy some rebuilt calipers from Napa, Autozone, Kragen, etc.
Pads: The two pads I have seen most often on the boards are OEM Toyota pads or Akebono ceramic proACT pads.
Brake fluid: Any DOT 3 or 4 fluid, might as well go synthetic, it's not much more.
Brake lines: Optional; but if you want them, go with Goodrich SS lines.

That's all you need. If you search there is TONS of info on this.

frodin1

Yea, there's actually too much. Alot of it is getting to be conflicting. Thanks