98.T4R

so a few days ago i bought some 34 inch superswamper ssr's and mounted them on procomp d window steel rims with 4.25 in backspacing rims and everything rides great. i have only a 1.5 inch body lift. i hammered in the pinch welds and cut the front vallance and i have minimal rubing. the reason i am posting is because i was told that none of this setup would work without a suspencion lift or a huge body lift and wheel spacers. but everything seems to work fine. i just found it supriseing that it all fit with only a 1.5 inch body lift. i will post pics soon

brian2sun

You could probably even fit 35s as long as you don't plan on going over any bumps in the road. I would be really surprised if the front tires aren't rubbing all over the frame and seriously limiting your steering/turning range. My 305s (33s) still touch the frame, only a little, and I have 1" spacers in the front and stock rims. You'll see why it's not recommended to run your set-up the second you hit the dirt.

scuba

Pics or it didnt happen

emptypockets

I would agree with Brian on this. The second you go off roading you'll see the limitations the tires are going to give you. I can almost promise you'll hit the frame and will rub elsewhere when you compress the suspension and try to turn at full lock. You might even rub off road with a 2-3" suspension lift. But hey, it's worth a try and let us know how your setup works off road.

Tofer

on a 9.5" wide tire, he shouldnt have any rubbing issues....

brian2sun

If we're talking about 255/85r16s, a lot of people run those successfully with small lifts, but they are a 33.4 x 10" tire. Running true 34s w/ a 1.5" BL would be rubbing like a monkey at the zoo.

98.T4R

at full lock and full stuff they rub the frame a little and only rub the uper fender well if i have the sway bar disconnected but they dont rub the vallance or he pinch weld at all.

bgmac

98.T4R

sorry for the delay i was wheeling and camping all weekend but here are some pics, ill try to get some shots when fully stuffed









i also recently did a dual battery setup as well

haddix

Nice. Theres a guy on t4r.org running 285/75 with NO lift.

bgmac

Looks like you have plenty of clearance. Why two batteries?

98.T4R

one is for all the electronics in the truck and one is just for starting so if i happen to run the primary battery dead i can still start it up and recharge the dead one. i have a battery isolator as well so each one charges as needed

bgmac

That's cool, I didn't realize you had a bunch of electronics. What group battery? I just got a group 35.

98.T4R

im not really sure how can you tell what they are

GSGALLANT

You should have considered a blue top or yellow top for your aux battery. Red tops really don't like getting discharged, so if you kill the red top down fully once or twice, it's done. The blue and yellow tops are deep cycle, so they can be discharged many times before they die on you and stop taking a charge. It'll work ok for you the way you have it for now, but if your aux red top dies on you, replace it with a blue or yellow top.

Also, do a search on here for "battery" and "fire", then consider making yourself a proper battery hold down bracket. There are cases on here of batteries that have been "tied down" with ratchet straps or even bungy cords, have come loose, and have shorted out the + lead to the body of the truck. Not a pretty sight when that happens. Take this for what it's worth... just trying to help.

CRafferty

That setup actually looks really sick. What kind of BL did you use? and were the Swampers BRAND new or were they used beforehand?

BajaRunner

Can you give more info on the dual battery setup? What isolator did you use, and what steps did you take to do this? Are the batteries connected in any way? Does the alternator go to the isolator, then the iso to the batteries, im assuming?

GSGALLANT

That's generally how you want to do it. The altenator connects the the isolator input, then each battery connects to it's own output on the isolator. Both batteries are isolated from each other by way of the diodes in the isolator (that way one dead battery doesn't take the other one down with it), but the alternator charges both batteries. Some isolators have a "connect" switch that allows you to manually connect both batteries together temporarily when you are going to have a large current draw (winching) or to easily boost a drained starting battery using the aux battery.

98.T4R

thanks, ya the tires are brand new and i know ppl dont advise it but i made my own body lift out of 1 1/2 half square tubing with 1/8 wall and took some 1/8 inch plate steel and boxed the ends in to make blocks more enforced. i have wheeled prity dang hard and havent any problems with it

98.T4R

well it took longer than i expected but i had to re locate the radiator overflow bottle next to the intake box, then i had to cut off the bracket for the old battery tray and hammer that area down a little so the new tray would mount correctly then had to cut the fan shroud just enough for the corner of the battery. then i welded up a bracket out of angle iorn and bolted the bracket to the fenderwell on one side and the other side of the bracket is suported by a notch in the fan shroud. i then wired up the isolator and extended the starter wire and other nessasary wires. i used oversized wires just to be safe.