Fuel filter torque
#1
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Thread Starter
Fuel filter torque
I was going to replace my fuel filter yesterday but it looks like there's a non-reusable gasket somewhere in there so I need to buy that first.
But I notice they say that the correct torque is very important. But this is torque on a nut you can't get a socket over. They show an illustration with a torque wrench with a crescent end to it.
I'm not buying a specialty torque wrench just for thiis...what have other people done? Just go by feel, or is there a way to set torque on a nut with a line going through the middle of it, without buying a specialty tool?
But I notice they say that the correct torque is very important. But this is torque on a nut you can't get a socket over. They show an illustration with a torque wrench with a crescent end to it.
I'm not buying a specialty torque wrench just for thiis...what have other people done? Just go by feel, or is there a way to set torque on a nut with a line going through the middle of it, without buying a specialty tool?
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Line wrench
since this is a flared fitting on both ends .
It is the flare that seals and not the threads
This is a 3.4 with the filter in a bracket on the frame not like a 22rec and the banjo bolts and crush washers.
I don`t know where your seeing a gasket or crush washer.
I just snug the nuts up after coating the line with never seize .
Since I will be the one removing the filter next time.
Having had to deal with some so rusted they ended up being cut off.
since this is a flared fitting on both ends .
It is the flare that seals and not the threads
This is a 3.4 with the filter in a bracket on the frame not like a 22rec and the banjo bolts and crush washers.
I don`t know where your seeing a gasket or crush washer.
I just snug the nuts up after coating the line with never seize .
Since I will be the one removing the filter next time.
Having had to deal with some so rusted they ended up being cut off.
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
The manual shows a rubber gasket/washer that needs to be replaced on both the inlet and outlet. Actually it shows two on each end. If it's not something you've run into, I won't worry about it.
They look like washers in the illustration.
They look like washers in the illustration.
#4
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iTrader: (1)
Myself I have never seen one nor replaced one nor do any come with the Toyota Fuel Filters .
Just looking at my 97FSM it does not even list the fuel filter as a maintenance item.
Toyota shows pictures of the Banjo bolt type filter for what ever reason
Ours have the flare nuts on both ends.
Just make sure the flares are clean and I put never seize on the threads
Always checking for leaks once the vehicle is started .
Before starting on this job make sure you have the correct filter and the correct wrenches to hold the filter while turning the nut.
penetrating spray of your favorite flavor most likely on since it was born.
Just looking at my 97FSM it does not even list the fuel filter as a maintenance item.
Toyota shows pictures of the Banjo bolt type filter for what ever reason
Ours have the flare nuts on both ends.
Just make sure the flares are clean and I put never seize on the threads
Always checking for leaks once the vehicle is started .
Before starting on this job make sure you have the correct filter and the correct wrenches to hold the filter while turning the nut.
penetrating spray of your favorite flavor most likely on since it was born.
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ok, thanks. I was looking at my Chilton manual so that's probably the problem...
It also mentions putting clean oil on all the threads but if you recommend anti-seize I'll go with that.
It looks pretty simple. Not as simple at the little plastic filters my 20R used...just two hose clamps and you're done...but still pretty simple.
Thanks.
It also mentions putting clean oil on all the threads but if you recommend anti-seize I'll go with that.
It looks pretty simple. Not as simple at the little plastic filters my 20R used...just two hose clamps and you're done...but still pretty simple.
Thanks.
#6
Registered User
Ok, thanks. I was looking at my Chilton manual so that's probably the problem...
It also mentions putting clean oil on all the threads but if you recommend anti-seize I'll go with that.
It looks pretty simple. Not as simple at the little plastic filters my 20R used...just two hose clamps and you're done...but still pretty simple.
Thanks.
It also mentions putting clean oil on all the threads but if you recommend anti-seize I'll go with that.
It looks pretty simple. Not as simple at the little plastic filters my 20R used...just two hose clamps and you're done...but still pretty simple.
Thanks.
Use a pair of line wrenches, not just one wrench.
Don't tighten the mount in place until you have gotten the flare nuts tight.
And yeah, anti-seize.
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#8
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Thread Starter
Ok, thanks. I was under there replacing my tranny and t-case fluid the other day and got a look at it. It doesn't look corroded, luckily. I'm sure it's a bit worse than that quick glance showed, but being in Montana is definitely better than where you guys are.
We get winter, but they don't put much nasty stuff on the roads. Mostly gravel and sand. Which is why hardly anyone has crack-free windshields...
We get winter, but they don't put much nasty stuff on the roads. Mostly gravel and sand. Which is why hardly anyone has crack-free windshields...
#9
Registered User
I did mine at 80k and am about to do it again, actually, as I just passed 160k. It's sitting on the kitchen counter. I'll let you know how hard it is, and how much good the anti-seize did.
#10
Just did mine yesterday with 119K miles. Very easy and I did not use anti seize on reassembly because the threads looked brand new. Break the bolts loose and loosen until it starts to drip. I let it drain until it stopped before I popped the lines out.
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ok. Yep.
I just did mine. The diagram in the Chiltons manual must have been for a landcruiser or something. They didn't give different directions for the different vehicles the manual covers for the fuel filter.
There were definitely no gaskets. There was also no corrosion, luckily. I used anti-seize anyways, since I had it under there with me.
Just need to start it up and make sure there are no leaks. I'm doing things in short little stages now because it's cold today! I miss having a garage.
I just did mine. The diagram in the Chiltons manual must have been for a landcruiser or something. They didn't give different directions for the different vehicles the manual covers for the fuel filter.
There were definitely no gaskets. There was also no corrosion, luckily. I used anti-seize anyways, since I had it under there with me.
Just need to start it up and make sure there are no leaks. I'm doing things in short little stages now because it's cold today! I miss having a garage.
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