Flashing CEL cylinders misfiring
#1
Flashing CEL cylinders misfiring
Okay so this is kinda lengthy. I have a 97 limited edition 4 runner I rolled in 2017. Chopped the top off and still drove it thru the river and everywhere else. Bought a 2000 limited edition 4 runner last year. Engine blew due to poor maintenance by previous owners. Did an engine swap and drove it for maybe 2 weeks. Boyfriend comes back and the CEL is on and it's missing. He said he drove thru a puddle and the light came on. Checked for codes and it says missing in cylinders 2 and 6 and a iat circuit malfunction. Swapped my iat sensor off the other motor. Changed coils checked plugs and wires and still the same. Discovered there's a rip in my air intake hose where it connects to the throttle body working on that now. And I also have an exhaust leak(I was aware of this already but after he threw codes from the puddle my front floor boards got hot enough to actually burn me which is new) I'm going to swap the exhaust from my other truck. The CEL now flashes rapidly and I can't figure it out. I kinda think it's my fuel injectors (and obviously the air intake hose) but my boyfriend thinks I'm dumb and it couldn't possibly be injectors 🙄. I'll update in a few after I get my intake back together. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Last edited by Kaoticbliss66; 08-20-2021 at 09:08 AM.
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Okay so this is kinda lengthy. I have a 97 limited edition 4 runner I rolled in 2017. Chopped the top off and still drove it thru the river and everywhere else. Bought a 2000 limited edition 4 runner last year. Engine blew due to poor maintenance by previous owners. Did an engine swap and drove it for maybe 2 weeks. Boyfriend comes back and the CEL is on and it's missing. He said he drove thru a puddle and the light came on. Checked for codes and it says missing in cylinders 2 and 6 and a iat circuit malfunction. Swapped my iat sensor off the other motor. Changed coils checked plugs and wires and still the same. Discovered there's a rip in my air intake hose where it connects to the throttle body working on that now. And I also have an exhaust leak(I was aware of this already but after he threw codes from the puddle my front floor boards got hot enough to actually burn me which is new) I'm going to swap the exhaust from my other truck. The CEL now flashes rapidly and I can't figure it out. I kinda think it's my fuel injectors (and obviously the air intake hose) but my boyfriend thinks I'm dumb and it couldn't possibly be injectors 🙄. I'll update in a few after I get my intake back together. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
How many miles ?? Injectors do go bad Just be careful Lots of Poor Quality and Knock offs out there.
Also possible When the 4Runner was used as a Boat Water got into the ECM which they don`t like. Something Got Wet!!!( A puddle Ok right!!)
A flashing Light is the Danger Danger you may be doing possible Engine Damage
Might be time to Upgrade Boyfriends . If you really like him a minor Punishment like cleaning the under carriage of the 4Runner with a tooth Brush teaches respect.
Best of Luck!
#3
Registered User
Have you pulled the codes?
A blinking CEL indicates a poor running condition that will lead to damage. Now that SOUNDS terrible, and sometimes it is, but without pulling codes you are guessing in the dark, while blind, and out to sea.
You mention it has a miss in #2 & #6, was that P0302 and P0306? Was P0300 in there as well? Do you have a scanner that can look at fuel trims? Does it run fine cold and then miss like hell once warm?
A blinking CEL indicates a poor running condition that will lead to damage. Now that SOUNDS terrible, and sometimes it is, but without pulling codes you are guessing in the dark, while blind, and out to sea.
You mention it has a miss in #2 & #6, was that P0302 and P0306? Was P0300 in there as well? Do you have a scanner that can look at fuel trims? Does it run fine cold and then miss like hell once warm?
Last edited by fierohink; 08-21-2021 at 02:40 PM.
#4
Have you pulled the codes?
A blinking CEL indicates a poor running condition that will lead to damage. Now that SOUNDS terrible, and sometimes it is, but without pulling codes you are guessing in the dark, while blind, and out to sea.
You mention it has a miss in #2 & #6, was that P0302 and P0306? Was P0300 in there as well? Do you have a scanner that can look at fuel trims? Does it run fine cold and then miss like hell once warm?
A blinking CEL indicates a poor running condition that will lead to damage. Now that SOUNDS terrible, and sometimes it is, but without pulling codes you are guessing in the dark, while blind, and out to sea.
You mention it has a miss in #2 & #6, was that P0302 and P0306? Was P0300 in there as well? Do you have a scanner that can look at fuel trims? Does it run fine cold and then miss like hell once warm?
Last edited by Kaoticbliss66; 08-30-2021 at 09:08 AM.
#5
Registered User
But do you clear the codes when it gets worked on? You don't want to be reading stored codes that no longer apply to the problem you actually have.
Just checking...
Pat☺
Just checking...
Pat☺
#6
BUT I am making progress! I only have two codes now. Too lean in Bank 1 and I'm missing in cylinders 6 again. Which means that's my coils I just swapped all around. I'm not sure about the system being to lean tho..... Is that a vacuum leak on my air intake?
#7
Registered User
Yessir I sure did.
BUT I am making progress! I only have two codes now. Too lean in Bank 1 and I'm missing in cylinders 6 again. Which means that's my coils I just swapped all around. I'm not sure about the system being to lean tho..... Is that a vacuum leak on my air intake?
BUT I am making progress! I only have two codes now. Too lean in Bank 1 and I'm missing in cylinders 6 again. Which means that's my coils I just swapped all around. I'm not sure about the system being to lean tho..... Is that a vacuum leak on my air intake?
There's several ways to check the air intake system. Visual inspection, looking from the inside for light leaking in as you flex the tubes and connectors. Spraying carb cleaner, or ether, on suspected leaky areas and seeing if there is an increase in idle speed. Be extremely cautious of ether (starting fluid), as it's highly flammable. Very dangerous.
Or, you can just replace the air intake tube, the big one, and all the smaller tubes. Really, not that expensive a project. Toyota got rid of a LOT of vacuum lines in the Gen 3 engines.
As to the injectors, you can hook up one at a time outside the intake manifold, and check it's spray pattern, OR you can simply send them all in to a rebuild company. When they come back, remember to replace the grommets, gaskets, etc, when you go to install them. IIRC, there are 3 per injector. Very readily available. Remember to dip them in gasoline before installation.
Once they're properly installed, and during a run-test, use your nose, eyes, and ears, extensively to make sure there are no leaks. A fuel leak from an injector is deadly dangerous, on a hot engine.
BTW: I'm no "sir". I was a Sergeant of Marines, not an officer. We had to call officers "sir" to their face, and some even deserved the appellation. The rest, we called "zeros", since their rank designations were O-xx. Like O-1 or O-3, etc. Of course, a lot of them were worthless, so the designation of zero was appropriate
Besides, everyone knows that Sergeants run the Corps, anyway
Either Pat, or even "hey you!" is perfectly fine, anything but "sir", please.
Good luck!
Pat☺
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