White SR5

Well if you're worried about money, I found two good deals on eBay for brakes.

#1: Drilled Brembo Rotors (16" wheel only) for $141 + $25 shipping ($174 total) as the starting bid. Brembo makes the best performance brakes, hands down, but I can't vouch for these as I haven't tried them. Here's the link to that auction: CLICK HERE.


#2: OEM Rotors AND Pads (15" OR 16" wheel) for $65 + $23 shipping ($88 total) as the BUY IT NOW price. Like getting brand new ones from Toyota for half the cost. Here's the link to that one, there are 10 available: CLICK HERE.

Hope this helps someone out!

Zach

rimpainter.com

Hey Zach, if you read the description (kind of decieving) it states that these are OE type rotors and pads. I dont think these are the real deal. If you look at the box for the pads, it appears to be genuine Toyota, but isn't. I think this guys auction is a bit misleading. Not only that, but there would be no warranty.

Thanks for looking though.

AgRunner06

If I remember right, rotors will warp because the the metal cools too quickly. For instance, if your brakes are pretty hot and you drive into a river. There's probably a pretty good chance that your rotors will be warped when you come out of the river. In my case, I think my rotors were just turned before I bought my truck. Then when I sprayed them with water when washing my truck, they warped. Turning your rotors is pretty much a temporary fix.

I think I'm just going to go with the Napa rotors. I'm going to put on the Performance Friction brake pads from Autozone (normally I'd never put anything from Autozone on the 4Runner). If I remember right, those are almost the exact same pad as the TRD pads. What I've heard is that I have to buy them for a '96 LC but they will fit my 4Runner.

So yeah...that's about it.

:chicken:

White SR5

Doh, I guess I read too fast. My bad. The Brembo's are top of the line though for rotors. Another option is to go to Auto Zone and get the Performance Friction pads that they have listed for a 96 Land Cruiser. They're full metallic and have a LIFETIME no questions asked warranty. I have those on now. They produce a lot more brake dust than the semi-metalic ones but can handle harder and extended braking because they're full metallic. They were around $60 for a pair.

Zach

AgRunner06

White SR5,
Will those pads also fit the 2nd gen 4runners? I just want to make sure. Did they really run you $60? I thought I heard that they were cheaper.

3.4v6

i also heard that you can warp your rotors by over tightening the lug nuts ... is this true?

airrikk17

i installed the same slotted rotors on my t-100 ( which seem to be famous for their warping rotors) and i cant beleive how great and smoth i brake now , i too had a horrible shake due to warped rotors . one thing i did find out from a local toyota mechanic is , too make sure you repack the bearings really good , appartently , this can cause the rotors to warp if not done properly . my braking seems to be better now , but thats probably because they are working right on a smooth surface. i would have personally tried the x drilled rotors , but at the time i couldnt find any for my truck . of course right after i buoght mine i found some .

oh well , soon to be done mods , like this week , include 4 inch lift , new tires , and new fiberglass canopy . yippee

airrikk17

Highland Runner

AgRunner06,
Yes they do fit. I have had the PF pads on my 94 and my wifes 98 for years. They work great. The PN for the pads is Autozone #5024. 3rd gens just got their own part number. These are made for a 96 Landcruiser. Tell them thats what you have for the warranty. BTW the #5024 and the other number for the 3rd gens is an identical part. You can take the old pads back and get new ones for free for life. Just make sure you keep the box they come in, or change the pads and take the old ones back in the box for a refund. The price should be $39.99.

3.4v6

do you have any pics of this back bearing and how do i repack them .... do i just go to toyota and tell them i need some back bearings? thanks
jason

airrikk17

sorry i dont have any pics ,yours will probably be a bit different then mine was , but if it is like mine , the hub and rotor come off togther then you have to seperate the rotor from the hub to replace the rotor . on the back side , there will be a axle seal , youll have to take it out and id suggest you replace it with a new one , using a block of wood to gently tap it back in to place when you get ready to put it back in .

after the seal is off the roller style bearing will be there , its sort of cone shape , you take it out be hand after the seal is out theres nothing use holding it in place . you can clean it up with gasoline or what ever you use to clean grease with. then when your ready to packthe bearings , you take a hand ful of high temp bering grease and roll the bearing and grease in your hand , kind of kneading it , and make sure you get the grease in and around everything . dont worry if its messy , it only gets messier. keep adding grease to the bearing as it fills in , and jsut make sure you get a lot of grease on it . then your ready to putthe bearing back in , then the axle seal. then do the same with the bearing on the front side . now mine didnt have a axle seal for the fornt bearing but your s might .

itsa messy job , id used about 20 pairs of latx gloves when doing mine . you can getthem by the box ful at most automotive stores , or at your friendly doctors or dentist office

if you have a buddy that has done a brake job rotor replacemnt , before and hes too lazy to help you , ask him to at least come over drink some beer and watch you do it , so that if you have any questions , at least someone , sober or not , will be there to give you a clue . but once youve done it , youll see , its easier then you figured it would be , jsut the first time is a bit over whelming .

airrikk17

nrgetic99

I have had a 96 and a 99 SR5, both with 16" wheels and the "upgraded front rotors" e.g. the bigger ones fitted to trucks with 16's.

They are very prone to poor braking based on poor adjustment of the rear brakes which have a sluggish auto-adjuster.

Don't get me wrong, I think the truck is underbraked BUT with good clean factory rotors and Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads in front and well adjusted rears, it ain't too bad.

To adjust the rear brakes without taking off wheels, while parked and your foot off the brake, repeatedly pump the park park whille holding the release lever. Do this 15-20 times.

I do it every time I think about it so prolly every 2 - 3 months or every 2500 - 3000 miles.

BTW, Gadget did his thing (e.g. spent the money, published the results) and concluded OEM rotors and PC pads gave him the best brakes.

Oh yeah, change your brake fluid every 24-36 months, its hydroscopic and that means you could be trying to send water into your calipers...not soo good for rapid stops !!!
David