corax

I'd skip spraying it on just because of any potential overspray, it's pretty good at self leveling if you use a brush anyway.

that stuff does NOT come off, but be aware that paint doesn't really stick to it well either unless you use their primer on top of it - it's too hard and smooth for paint adhesion

rocket

iTrader: (1)

yeah POR-15 is awesome and wearing gloves are a must but I was referring to their Marine Clean product thats used in the 1st step to "clean" bare metal. The fumes are seriously potent if you breath it in...it made me gag, spit, cough, and run for fresh air a few times. I even thought I was going to die once.

Lysmachia

Actually.... I was able to get POR15 off of myself and other places using lacquer thinner. But it's kinda important to do it while it is still wet...

Djlarroc

Very cool thread. I'm about to embark on this same journey with my new Runner that came from NY.

So is POR15 sold at Home Depot/Lowes also? I'd rather go in and buy as little as I can for as much as I need. I've read on multiple places to use as much as possible in one sitting.

Yukon

Im also looking for retail places that sell this stuff, their website is no help that i can find, anyone know?

rocket

iTrader: (1)

I've always bought it at their website...sometimes they offer a 10% discount. They also have a store on eBay.

Seeing your picture above is where POR-15 would make a major difference and be the most ideal place to use it.

Applying it will take some time in becoming familiar with it's bonding/consistency but the end result, especially undercarriage parts will be well worth your cost and time.

Purchase some highest quality brushes and plan to coat everything that you can in one or two applications. You cannot take "breaks" because your brushes will gradually harden and quickly become useless.

Again, just for reference, I had no problem paying extra to have my aftermarket bumper power-coated...I used to powder-coat all kinds of things but feel POR-15 is superior.
We're currently using and/or have plans to use POR-15 on two front/rear bumpers, sliders, skid plates, and a used (already powder-coated) utility trailer.

A single quart should cover everything you need, plus some.

vermontoyota

I know you can get it at Bond auto paint shops and car quest. you guys not from the northeast may or may not have those stores

89-4run

I just did the underneath of my 2002 4Runner last year using Picklex-20 and Zero Rust. I DID a ton of research on different products, and POR-15 is the most commonly known product on the market because of advertising. A couple of things that I didn't want to deal with:
1.) The fumes will kill you. Sure, not like you're working with the stuff daily for long periods of time, but from what I've read, I wasn't taking a chance.
2.) You have to follow all of the prep steps to a "T", no half-assing anything.
3.) Cost, time, etc...

The stuff I got went on easy, very forgiving, and 1 year later in perfect condition. The only con I found is that Zero Rust will probably chip if smashed on a rock - I'm not hardcore wheeling so that didn't factor into my decision. As a previous user stated, this stuff won't kill you, I still wore a simple mask. Zero Rust comes in spray cans which is nice.

Here is the store I got the products from: http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...gory_Code=6RCC

I called and talked to the guy to get his advice on proper prep work. This is going off of memory, but this is what he told me:
1.) Wire wheel/Scrap any rust off, try to get down as far as possible.
2.) Apply Picklex-20, let dry over night
3.) Apply thin coat of Zero Rust, wait 15 minutes, apply another coat
4.) Done.

I orderd a bottle of Picklex and 1 can of ZR, and 2 spray cans of ZR. I got the front done, around the front suspension, frame rails and gas tank skid plate done and I still have more than enough product to last me.

The only other thing I can thing of is that ZR isn't shiney midnight black coat. If thats what you want POR is the way to go.

-Rob

89-4run

Ok, found my old post with more information. And it was Rock Slide that was using POR-15 and gives alot of good information on it.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/f...-paint-119621/

CJM

Wanna get a good laugh? A year ago or so I noticed rust on my T100, it wasnt to bad, maybe around alot of the welds and various other parts.

I went to home depot and bought rustoleum rust converter in a can, pressure washed the under carriage and let dry. A day later I sprayed the heck out of the underside of the truck with the rustoleum, a year later and wowza its still good. Best of all it only cost like 5 bucks a can..

HAVOC

I saw POR-15 at a local body-supply store while I was there buying some seam sealer. (I did not buy it there, I bought it online).
I'll be doing my chassis, inside floor, outside floor, and inside of the firewall/kick panel. I pulled the windshield and found rust there so that will get an application of POR15 also.
I bought the floor pan/trunk kit from http://www.por15.com/ Shipping was very fast as they are in New Jersey (a few doors down from where I go for training for work).
POR15 is 90% preperation. Do what I did and read the instructions two or three times. I'm waiting for the humidity to die down so I can start applying the stuff. I'll do the windshield area first to get a feeling for the process, then tackle the other ares. I'll post pics of the process when I'm done.

Start of the process. Dont worry, it's just surface rust. The clutch master was leaking which ate the paint and rust started (leaking windshield). Brake fluid has no effect on POR15 so this is a big plus.

84RNR

My cousin (he's got an '85 runner) and I just spray the entire underside and inside the frame rails a few times a year with used motor oil. We mix it with a little kerosene to make it easier to spray from a pump sprayer. Works well and it doesn't smell at all like you would think. We have a lot of gravel driveways around here and it helps kill the unwanted grass on them too, so 2 birds with one stone I guess.

Yukon

This zero rust stuff is looking like the way I want to go, I can get a quart, and two aerosol cans, and the pickle stuff for 70 bucks! I'm still researching though, anybody else have experience with it.

trbizwiz

What about using boiled linseed oil inside the frame. Its a little friendlyer to the environment (veg oil) and it too dries toa waxy consistency. Its also cheap at hardware stores.

VaTech4wd

I started to undercoat my 4-runner yesterday but was a little hesitant in doing so. It was my first time undercoating. I realize that you should steer clear of the brakes, but is there any other area to be cautious around? I want to make sure I get everything but at the same time not cover parts that should not be covered. For my undercoating i used a product by Amsoil. Its called HD Metal Protector. Anyone ever use this product? It goes on as a liquid then seals like a wax. Thanks for your help.

cnmrosko

I wouldn't paint over any rust with POR-15 or any other paint or hard cure coating type of product. I've tried it several times with various products , including POR-15 and undercoating sprays, and over time it made things worse. If you clean off all of the rust, sand blast or acid wash, sand and prime the surface with a good quality zinc rich primer and top coat with POR-15 you'll have a fairly good rust resistant surface.

Currently I've been occasionally spraying the frame and rusty under parts on my used 98 4runner with corrosion x, corrosion x heavy duty and or max wax and it definitely slows down the corrosion process. I bought the 4runner with 126,000 mi. on it and wish the previous owners had done something similar.

http://www.corrosionx.com/

I've read that used motor oil will tend to attract moisture so it's not the best choice for rust protection, I wouldn't use the linseed oil either.