bigtrucknwheels

Before you guys flame, I searched and got a bajillion threads for 90-95 4Runners, but nothing solid on a 3rd gen 4Runner...

Anyways, all I need is a few quick answers.

What all is involved with replacing the CV? Can I slide it out without having to pop out a ball joint or having to completely disassemble the hub? And lastly, I have heard talk of modifying the studs on the differential to make replacement easier, what exactly gets modified?

Thanks!

akaphilly

hardy har har

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/cv_axle/


its pretty easy takes 30-45 mins

bigtrucknwheels

thanks! thats just what I was looking for! Now, to find that 35MM socket...

fightman80

Really good link man! Very informative!

Jin_Chris

Let me add a little.

As explained in the 4x4wire, please have someone step on the brake while you are "trying" to loosen up the lock nut (35mm one). If you have never done CV shaft job, just be prepared to use your muscle.

My suggestion is that,

1. when you get 35mm socket, make sure you get 1inch one.
2. Do not buy those 1/2 inch short break-bar in auto part store.
3. Get or rent as thicker break-bar as possible (1 inch is better than 3/4 inch of course).
4. If you can not find long break-bar, go homedepot or something and get heavy gauge gas-line hollow pipe (4~5feet). Use it as an extension bar.

It may sound overkill. but I have done this a few time for a few different brand of cars. One time, I broke 2 bars from autozone but yet couldn't move even a fraction of mm at all.

You will save a lot of time (and sweat)....

Once you break it, then, it will be pretty straight-forward.

Oh! one more suggestion,

If your cv boot is torn already, my suggestion is to go to the car wash and degrease and hose-down that area as much as possible. It could be really messy if you don't take care of those grease first....
Enjoy!

TC4RNR

when the cv is removed, little bit of gear oil will leak out from the front diff., be prepaired don't make a mess on the floor, i would replace the fluid because you need to top off the diff any way. just a tad over 1 qt., not a big deal at all but big peace of mind.

bigtrucknwheels

cool, I will just pick up some synthetic gear oil and I will probably do the rear diff and the transmission at the same time. Then again, maybe not, I am on a budget and have time constraints to deal with lol.

Thanks for your suggestions! I will see what I can round up as far as tools go. I have heavy pipe laying around from electrical work, so no worries there.. Lucky for me, there is no mess, just a complete sheer-off inside the boot. You should hear that thing clank. At 70, it sounds like a freight train and shakes the whole truck! I can't complain though, it lasted 215000 miles, almost exactly (within 20 miles lol).

bigtrucknwheels

well, I got the new-to-me CV in, and man, that was a piece of cake... the parts I was most concerned about was breaking loose the ball joint bolts and getting that shaft to go into the diff. I greased the crap out of the end of the axle shaft and literally pushed it right in and it clicked. The ball joint bolts were not frozen in place, much to my pleasure. I didn't have an Allen socket though, so refilling the gear oil took a little time. Luckily, being an electrician, I had a large Allen wrench in my tool sack. I grabbed a wrench for extra leverage and went to town.

But, good news is, its all fixed and sounds like nothing haha. The excessive shimmy/vibration is gone as well. I will have to get pics of the old CV... The boot was def. the only thing holding it together. I am darn lucky it didn't fly apart on me .

racedirt1

I have torn boot, how much longer do you think it takes to replace inner and outer boots than it does the entire cv?