OneTrickToy

???Ducky???

You aren't an audiophile....but you are a DJ?

How does that work?????!!!??

I can help you out getting your system running.... I'm working on some ideas for my Yota right now. Mine involves running my two amps under my seats on kitchen drawer rails being driven by dual motors. Push of a button and both amplifiers will slide out from under the seats for viewing/adjusting. Then running my W6's behind my seats the the boxes meeting between the front seats. Where they meet I'm going to finish it to look like an arm rest. I'll have the power switches for the amps and stereo under the armrest.(the pad will flip up to expose the switchboard.

Ducky

Well Mixing Music is one thing, wiring a truck right Im finding to be totally different...

I got:

2x w6's in a sealed box right now...
1x Rockford Punch 225x2 for the amp hooked up now
1x rockford punch 160x4 in my garage
MB quartz DSD216's in the garage
MB quartz DKC169's in the garage... (prolley wont work since I think they are 6x9's
and a sony CDXM750 deck installed right now.

Im interested to hear the difference between a sealed box and a bandpass box.

OneTrickToy

Hmm... If I were you.... I'd try and sell the MB Q's 6x9's and the Punch 2 way amp. Then take the money and buy a class D Subwoofer amp. Then when you have some more money down the road, buy some new rear speakers. The 6x9's would definately take some cutting to fit. And the Punch 2 way doesn't put out enough watts. The W6's NEED 250-300 each RMS. I talked with a shop in southern California that consistantly takes 1st place in competitions, and they said that the W6's are great subs, but very inefficient. They need a lot of power to perform. Which is what I found out. I ran it off a DHD amp, an Audiobahn amp, and my friend ran it off his Rockford Punch amp. They sounded ok.....but when I made the switch to the JL amp.... WHOA. You would think they were 15's. But it not only improved the power... but the clarity. They were crisp. Anyways, I can help you set everything up if you want. But you'll have to wait a bit. Unless you want to meet tomorrow or Monday(highly doubt that). I'm going down to Seattle on Tuesday, and I leave for Europe Wednesday morning. I won't be back stateside until the September 18th.

Ducky

What Model Amp do you suggest... I could aim for that... and go from there.

OneTrickToy

I'm glad I copied the post before I hit send.... Tried to send it and the server went down.

If you could find the amp that I'm running for a good deal... then that is what I would suggest. JL Audio 500/1. They give you(are supposed to) a chart that shows it's benchmark. It will put out between 600 and 730 watts RMS. The reason I suggest it is because the controls are second to none. For $15 you can get a remote gain control. The controls:
Infrasonic Filter. "Q" Selection. Center frequency. Boost(dB). Amp LP filter with slope choice of off/12dB/24dB. Voltage input selection. Signal sensing switch(if you don't want to run a remote line). Then it has a daisy chain output. A set of RCA outputs to run to another amp. This output has it's own slope control, and filter (LP/HP). You can run these outputs as a clean output(same as what came from your deck), you can use the filter, or you can have it run the exact same settings that go to your subs, and hook it up to another 500/1 amp(this way all amps daisychained will be controlled by the first amps controls). Other than that..... The amp uses class D circuitry(most effiecient for subwoofers). It will put out a CONSTANT RMS wattage no matter what the impedance. Very nice so you always know what you are putting out. And the clarity stays the same across all impedances. This amp can run anywhere from $350(what I payed brand new)-$550. I've seen it going between $450-$550 here in WA. I bought mine when I lived in Cali. Cash speaks a lot down there. Walk into a store and say, I've got XXX CASH for this amp. Most likely if it's reasonable they will say..."well...ok. I guess I can do that." I don't know about up here though.

Other than this, JL makes a 1000/1. Or, I would suggest an Eclipse, Memphis, or Audiobahn amp. There are a couple others that are good, but I can't think of them right now. RF has gone down in quality in the last few years... so I wouldn't suggest them. There are a couple other guys in here that are into car audio too. Or you can go to a reputable stereo shop(NOT Best Buy, Circuit City, or any other huge chain). Go to a small shop that does competitions. They will know their stuff and point you in the right direction.

Ducky

I understand the mono part.. so I only need 1 channel amp for 2 dual voice coil subs?

OneTrickToy

YES! And most people don't understand that. The reason subs are dual voice coil is not so you can run multi channel amps. It is used so that you can run various impedances(ohms). For example the W6 is a dual 6 ohm sub. Each coil is 6 ohms. If you run them in series, it will run at 12 ohms. Run them in parallel, and you'll have 3 ohms. When you run multiple subs, this gives you a ton of options. Run each sub's coils in series, and you have two 12 ohm subs, then wire the subs together in parallel and you have a 6 ohm configuration. Run each sub's coils in parallel and they will will be running at 3 ohms, then run the subs together in parallel and you'll be running at 1.5 ohms. <---this is what you want to run. 1.5 ohms is a very good number. Below 1 ohm and you start heating things up and it won't run very stable. The higher the number, the more stable, and I believe the less power is needed, but the quality is degraded. The lower the number, the more power needed, but higher quality. I think that sums it up. I believe JL Audio has a few really good writeups that will explain everything in detail.