Dan_90SR5

Alright, I installed my Cruiser coils today. I disconnected the brake line and the load sensing valve bracket. I know that I need to get a new brake line. I also need to make a bracket to raise the lever on the load sensing valve, right?

I was just curious about the bracket. I hear everyone talking about a new brake bracket, but wasn't sure if that's what they meant.

I got a new welder and can't wait to try it out on the pan hard brackets. Would the best thing here be to make a drop bracket and a lift bracket, one on each end that splits the difference in the lift? That is my inital though. What is the general concensus?

Flygtenstein

My LSPV is attached to the frame with an adjustable turnbuckle. No need to mess around with brackets, etc.

My panhard is dropped. Whatever is easiest for you to do it likely best. In the end, it is six of one, half dozen of the other.

Dan_90SR5

Yeah, my LSPV is attached the same way. The problem is that when you allow the axle end to sit so low, it isuseing the rear brakes as little as possible. This will cause poor braking and I would assume premature wear on the front brake pads.

That was just my thoughts on it. I also know that the Downey kit comes with some sort of bracket. I'm not sure if it's for the LSPV or for the brake line though.

KevyWevy

ok so where are the pictures?!?!?! how level does it sit? did you end up using the spaceres for the coils from slee? details man details!!!! hahahahahahaha

WSU4runner

Yeah, I'd like to see some pictures too. As i'm about to do the same thing in a month or so

KevyWevy

about a month here too

Dan_90SR5

Alright, not many details to tell right now because I'm doing other things to the Runner and have other things in my life going on right now.

The Runner is still up in the air. I have one side on the front done and the rear completely done. I am going to make the LSPV bracket tuesday and replace the hard lines. Someone has worked on these breaks before and stripped out one of the fittings (yes, they were a bitch to get off). Oh yeah, I had to unhook the hard lines because I replaced the differential seals.

I'll have pictures to post next week and will take some of all the stuff that has been in question here. I used the packers like Slee suggested. The taller spring is about 1/2" when uncompressed. Christo (from Slee) says that they are the same spring rate and should have the same 1/2" when the weight of the Runner is on it.

Actually for the sake of you guys, I'll finish the front and put the wheels on it. Then I'll get your pics. It doesn't have to be in the air to finish up the brake lines or the LSPV bracket.

KevyWevy

thank you!!!

KevyWevy

how long do you think the LSPV bracket should be?

Dan_90SR5

What I'm going to do is measure the amount of lift the the coils gave ma and make the bracket the same height. Essentially this would put it at the stock ride height and make it work properly.

The bracket just needs to 1/8" flat stock, that's all that the factory one welded to the axle is. Just extend that up with the same material.

Flygtenstein

I have an old bracket, PM me your address and I will mail it this weekend.

I have a turnbuckle on my LSPV as I said in another thread. I went to a wet parking lot, drove around and slammed on the brakes. I then adjusted the turnbuckle until the rear ABS kicked in just before the fronts locked. The bar is about flat.

I would be more worried about the panhard/gas tank/driveshaft issue myself.

Robinhood150

Remember that the sagging height is not the factory height. So if you gained 5 inches from your sagging height, the bracket should not be 5 inches, it should be something less.

Dan_90SR5

Correct about that bracket height. It should only be 2-3" I would think.

I'm making panhard brackets as soon as I can get the material that I want use for them. I'm also doing a 2" bodylift and I'm going to fabricate a new mounting bracket for my tank.....moving it up 2". That should help some. If it's still bad after that I'll look at making a new tank. Working from easiest to hardest though.

anthony1

iTrader: (1)

It's better to put the pan hard rod up rather than down. I bent mine already a while back.

Dan_90SR5

I'm doing both......splitting the difference

KevyWevy

so, uh any pics yet??????

914runner

Just to let you know, The fuel tank cannot be moved ap because it will hit the passenger side upper control arm frame mounting braket. When I do my 3" body/drivetrain lift, I plan on making a custom fuel tank that will go where the rear tire used to go and will be winched up by the spare tire winch thinggy.

Dan_90SR5

The pictures have been delayed because I haven't been able to work on the Runner. I have alot going on right now. Maybe tomorrow I'll get to do some work on it.

As far as the fuel tank goes. I think that it can be moved up. It might need to be moved forward and up. Or possibly a small amoutn cut off that end and then moved up. I'm not saying that things can be done easily for the average person, but anything can be done.

I have to agree though. I was thinking the same thing about moving that tank to the spare location. I have to measure that though and se what size tank can be put there.

Flygtenstein

The fuel tank can/should be movable a distance dictated by bodylift.

I do have one of the Downey LSPV brackets, if anyone is hell bent on that. Otherwise, the turnbuckle allows you exact adjustment.

KevyWevy

so any word on how much lift you got in the rear with the coils and the spacer?