Clinometer in-dash mod
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Clinometer in-dash mod
I just finished modifying and installing a clinometer in my '90.
I bought Bob K's modified unit, but with the smaller dash area in a 90 and an aftermarket stereo it was still way too big. So I cut it down another 1/4" and I still had to cut out the dash opening all the way to the structure too. Finally it's all in. Thanks to Bob98SR5 for the clinometer and the great idea!
-Phil
I bought Bob K's modified unit, but with the smaller dash area in a 90 and an aftermarket stereo it was still way too big. So I cut it down another 1/4" and I still had to cut out the dash opening all the way to the structure too. Finally it's all in. Thanks to Bob98SR5 for the clinometer and the great idea!
-Phil
#4
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Originally Posted by Flamedx4
I just finished modifying and installing a clinometer in my '90.
I bought Bob K's modified unit, but with the smaller dash area in a 90 and an aftermarket stereo it was still way too big. So I cut it down another 1/4" and I still had to cut out the dash opening all the way to the structure too. Finally it's all in. Thanks to Bob98SR5 for the clinometer and the great idea!
-Phil
I bought Bob K's modified unit, but with the smaller dash area in a 90 and an aftermarket stereo it was still way too big. So I cut it down another 1/4" and I still had to cut out the dash opening all the way to the structure too. Finally it's all in. Thanks to Bob98SR5 for the clinometer and the great idea!
-Phil
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Thanks!
Still works perfectly, but I can tell you, it can't be cut down any farther that that! There is barely any clearance at the top of the case for the 'wheels' of the clinometer, and the altimeter sticks out the bottom of the case till it's flush. I didnt' actually put the top back on the case after I cut it down, it's that tight a fit - I taped a piece of black Hefty-bag over the top to keep dust out. All the adjustment knobs are still there (they have to be, if you cut it till they were gone you'd be cutting the mechanism up.) and work fine, the only thing lost is the word "lock" above the lock knob. I actually cut the dash opening bigger too. Once I did that I had no choice but to make it all work out... :pat:
Still works perfectly, but I can tell you, it can't be cut down any farther that that! There is barely any clearance at the top of the case for the 'wheels' of the clinometer, and the altimeter sticks out the bottom of the case till it's flush. I didnt' actually put the top back on the case after I cut it down, it's that tight a fit - I taped a piece of black Hefty-bag over the top to keep dust out. All the adjustment knobs are still there (they have to be, if you cut it till they were gone you'd be cutting the mechanism up.) and work fine, the only thing lost is the word "lock" above the lock knob. I actually cut the dash opening bigger too. Once I did that I had no choice but to make it all work out... :pat:
#6
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Originally Posted by Flamedx4
Thanks!
Still works perfectly, but I can tell you, it can't be cut down any farther that that! There is barely any clearance at the top of the case for the 'wheels' of the clinometer, and the altimeter sticks out the bottom of the case till it's flush. I didnt' actually put the top back on the case after I cut it down, it's that tight a fit - I taped a piece of black Hefty-bag over the top to keep dust out. All the adjustment knobs are still there (they have to be, if you cut it till they were gone you'd be cutting the mechanism up.) and work fine, the only thing lost is the word "lock" above the lock knob. I actually cut the dash opening bigger too. Once I did that I had no choice but to make it all work out... :pat:
Still works perfectly, but I can tell you, it can't be cut down any farther that that! There is barely any clearance at the top of the case for the 'wheels' of the clinometer, and the altimeter sticks out the bottom of the case till it's flush. I didnt' actually put the top back on the case after I cut it down, it's that tight a fit - I taped a piece of black Hefty-bag over the top to keep dust out. All the adjustment knobs are still there (they have to be, if you cut it till they were gone you'd be cutting the mechanism up.) and work fine, the only thing lost is the word "lock" above the lock knob. I actually cut the dash opening bigger too. Once I did that I had no choice but to make it all work out... :pat:
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Up and down. (Well, actually where the stereo goes in, the previous owner had to cut it side to side too. Ugly job, I think they used an axe....) The toyota opening isn't quite double din, even though I think they claim it is. A DIN radio is 2" tall, and the opening was only 5 1/2" tall. The little tray that was in there is only 3/4 the height of a radio. Would have been fine in say, a 98 (See Bob98SR5's pics in his write up in the tech section,) but there wasn't any extra room in the dash above the opening of the 90. So, another excuse to get out the dremel.... <grin>
Last edited by Flamedx4; 07-20-2004 at 10:27 AM.
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#8
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Nice mod, I've been thinking about that one for a while. What I want to do is a little different. I'd like to put the clinometer where the two center vents are up top to have it more at "eye" level. Then re-route the vents below the stock stereo...has anyone done this?
#9
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Originally Posted by Gabe
Nice mod, I've been thinking about that one for a while. What I want to do is a little different. I'd like to put the clinometer where the two center vents are up top to have it more at "eye" level. Then re-route the vents below the stock stereo...has anyone done this?
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Originally Posted by Cebby
I haven't yet, but I plan to. I have the clinometer and a couple of spare dash pieces tp play with. I want to find a heater vent that is the size (roughly) of the cupholder slot. I need to hit the pick and pull yard. IIRC, the vent our of a early 90's Jag XJ6 is nice and narrow.
I knew I couldn't be the only one out there thinking about it, although routing through the cup holder would be definately easier because of the location. Plus imagine the blast coming out of there when you compress the air vent that much, !!! Definately need pics of this...perhaps even a writeup!
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Same color as the body - House of Kolor Tengello Pearl. Yeah, the entire truck was disassembled for paint, windows, dash and all. Every inch that shows (and almost everything that doesn't) was painted. Even the seat belt mechanisms and the door hardware. Green accents are a bit over the top - they go with the green in the Flames... I have new switches to replace the painted ones in the dash, that wasn't a great idea. Notice the flames on the door edge and the seat base. You don't wanna know how many hours went into this...
Credits to Tom Meyer of FX Designs in Roseburg Oregon. He does nice work and is a heck of nice guy.
-Phil
Credits to Tom Meyer of FX Designs in Roseburg Oregon. He does nice work and is a heck of nice guy.
-Phil
#15
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Originally Posted by Flamedx4
Same color as the body - House of Kolor Tengello Pearl. Yeah, the entire truck was disassembled for paint, windows, dash and all. Every inch that shows (and almost everything that doesn't) was painted. Even the seat belt mechanisms and the door hardware. Green accents are a bit over the top - they go with the green in the Flames... I have new switches to replace the painted ones in the dash, that wasn't a great idea. Notice the flames on the door edge and the seat base. You don't wanna know how many hours went into this...
Credits to Tom Meyer of FX Designs in Roseburg Oregon. He does nice work and is a heck of nice guy.
-Phil
Credits to Tom Meyer of FX Designs in Roseburg Oregon. He does nice work and is a heck of nice guy.
-Phil
#17
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When I was a kid, Dad and I restored old cars. This '95 4Runner has me thinkin' about restoring/improving it. Since the paint on the hood and top are getting a little ratty, I'm thinking about removing the bumpers, glass, badges, weather stripping and doing the prep myself. Sounds pretty much like what you did. How long did it take you and what was the cost?
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If you're thinking of a real restoration paint job, it's time consuming. (figure 100 hours of labor, not counting actual paint and paint prep time) If you just want to repaint the same color and only need to do the outside, it's not bad just to remove the exterior trim and stuff. A few hours off and and a few hours to put it all back. Paint prep time depends on who bad it is and how picky you are (and how experienced you are.) All in all there are 200 hours into this paint job, plus 2 grand in paint and materials. Certainly not worth it. It used to go to shows, now it goes 4 wheeling. It IS fun to see people's faces when they find me on a trail.... For the record - I didn't paint this truck - I bought it already painted from the guy who painted it.
Last edited by Flamedx4; 07-21-2004 at 08:08 AM.
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Have you come up with any good ideas for keeping the sides from getting scratched on the trails? They call it Oklahoma pin stripes here.
Last edited by mt_goat; 07-21-2004 at 08:20 AM.
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Just what I've alway done in the past. My 4Runner still looked great after 15 years and it pushed through a lot of mud and brush. Steer clear of the worst damage, ignore the small stuff. Keep it clean, wax it once in a while (I think I waxed it 6 times in 15 years...) Don't overdo it and don't worry too much about it. (Ya got to choose - 4wheelin or Pristine - there is no compromize) Twice in 15 years I properly compounded it down and got rid of the accumulation of scratches. A clearcoat paint job helps, you can take out some deep scratches in clear coat. Avoid sagebrush - that stuff is like 60 grit sandpaper!