JBurt

So my sway bar bushings were torn in half and I ordered a set from wheelers to replace them. I searched for a write up (I know it doesn't seem hard at all but I always like to check) and didn't find one so I just went with the instructions that came with the bushings.

1st question - On the two brackets that hold the sway bar up, one is stamped with an "L" and the other is stamped with an "R" (I'm assuming for left and right). Anyways the "L" bracket was on the passenger side and the "R" bracket was under the drivers side. This doesn't seem right to me and them seem to fit a whole lot easier if I swap them. I think that would also explain why the other two failed. Anyways I figured I would check on here to see what other people's were like.

2nd question - I took the nut off the top of one of the end links and it was really tight ( I didn't think to use the jack to put the lower control arm up and take pressure off) anyways I stripped the top of the end link and figured I'd take it to a shop to have them rethread the end of it. My problem is I can't get it off. I know you have to use an alan wrench but I'm not sure on the procedure and it seems stuck on there pretty good. Any help is appreciated.

I've already made up my mind to keep the sway bar so I don't want to just take it off (although it would be easier). Thanks.

J2F42C

I think you are correct on that the L and the R correlate to the specific side of the 4 runner, so do change them back.

To get the sway bar out, I'd remove the nut that holds on the bolt to the LCA, and then push the sway bar link out of the LCA. For the non stripped side, do the same but you may/may not have to loosen the top nut first to pop out the other sway bar link out of the LCA. Then once the sway bar is out, you may be able to get more leverage on that nut.

If you have the $$$, I'd just get another sway bar link if yours is that rusty and the nut does not come off. Try a junkyard first, if not, order from toyotapartszone.com for $70. Part # is 48820-AD010. Don't forget the crush nut on top of the link: 94184-01041. $2for two. Torque down to 14ft/lbs.

TheDurk

L and R are definitely Left and Right. If you reverse them, you can get them on, but it looks wrong and it will certainly mess up the bushings if you leave it that way. I put mine back in reversed, but I caught the mistake. Sounds like your previous owner didn't. It's not that hard to mix them up.

JBurt

Thanks guys. Swapping the brackets made them fit real easy. What size are the nuts on the bottom of the end links. It's apparently a size that I don't have and I wanted to make sure I got the right size before I go pick one up. 21mm maybe? Thanks again.

pkt1213

iTrader: (1)

I belive autozone and o'riellys stocks the end links and I belive both of them are made by Moog. I know at least one of them carries them. I replaced one I had to cut off on my truck and the aftermarket endlink is so much beefier than the stock one.

JBurt

Autozone. 24.99. Thanks a lot. I should have it all back up and running this afternoon. Does anyone know if the bolts on the bottom of the links are crush bolts? When I replace the bushings on the other side will I be fine just raising the control arm and taking them off, or should I just leave the old ones on there, they are crushed, but not too bad. Thanks.