doink

hey guys-
im thinkin about getting geard and perhaps an arb locker/compressor set up. anyfeedback on the unit from you guys running it would be appreciated..but..good and bad

dusty98

I have the ARB in the rear and the ability to lock it only when needed is a big plus. Like anything else, it has to be setup right. I've heard of air & fluid leaks otherwise.
A few weeks after a deep water crossing, the inline fuse in the engine bay had gotten rusty and it wouldn't work. I replaced the fuse and it's fine. I also sealed the fuse housing better too.
I'm not sure what air hoses they come with lately, but I'd upgrade them if you can or at least get the repair kit for the blue ARB hose. The repair kits are inexpensive so you can keep a couple if you want.

doink

cool. glad to hear it. keep em comin guys . ill have to lookinto the repair kit if i do indeed get one..

Flygtenstein

Two lockers, ARB compressor and stainless lines.

They rule.

Either route the lines wisely or cross to stainless and to it foolishly.

Set-up is important. If the copper line gets buggered, you are screwed.

calrockx

for what it's worth, i've been researching the arb air locker too as i plan to get one, and i've heard great things about them. the only issues i've heard are what golden mentioned above, but if installed correctly, you should no problems. check out the 4x4 wire board too, lots of info on there.

the member on the board casey has one, and he's very happy with his, and as far as i know, no problems. but i'll let him offer him chime in on that.

doink

yeah, ive been researching them for a while and heard nothing but good things as well. just double checking as its a heavy wad of cash to lay down for something to go screwey.

Flygtenstein

Choice 1:
Get rear e-locker with appropriate gears. Not an issue if you have a new runner, sure hard to match a used one with either 4.88's or 4.56's. Means go new.

Choice 2:
Get an ARB. No breather to plug and quit. Simple bolt and go without housing mods. Have to go new so cost becomes a wash.

I love mine and cannot imagine wheeling without them.

Is this something that could bump the wheeling board over the 3 post a day limit?

Brendan

Everything said and done, how much did all the parts cost for the front and rear lockers and the compressor (and anything else needed) without labour?

Cebby

Don't you need to drill and tap the housing for the airline?

Adrian, on another note, you mentioned changing the blue plastic lines to stainless steel. Are these the Russell/Earls type hoses, partially hardline, or something else?

Call me curious...

Flygtenstein

The third is tapped for the air line, not the axle housing.

I got my stainless lines from AOR because my front melted a couple days before I left for CO4RJ 2002 and I was going to be flying past their shop on the way. They use an adaptor that goes from pipe thread to compression fittings on the lines. Really a good deal.

My whole set-up has been posted a couple times. Parts are about $600 per locker, $185 for the compressor, then you ought to get front and rear master install kits for about $125 a piece. Stainless lines were $100 or so a piece, IIRC.

mt_goat

I've been running a rear ARB locker for about 7 years with no problems, except a small air leak from the tank manifold, which caused the compressor to kick on about every 2 or 3 minutes. The leak was fixed by wrapping Teflon tape around the threads of the fittings.

I've been running a front ARB locker for about 1 year and the mechanic that installed it messed up and the locker wouldn't disengage for a few minutes after flipping the switch off. He had to take the whole thing apart to fix it, he was not happy. He said he used too much lube on an o-ring and it wouldn’t let the air out fast enough to disengage the unit. No problems since though except I have a another small air leak somewhere that causes the compressor to kick on every 5 or 6 minutes when the locker is being used, no big deal though.

The ARB compressor is much too slow for airing up tires, but works in a pinch. It works good for airing up air-shocks though, (100psi).

They are worth the money to me! I also can’t imagine wheeling without them, they have saved my many times, especially since my wife and I like to wheel by ourselves a lot. If you spend the money on them make sure you tell your insurance carrier so you will be covered for the extra expense if something bad happens. My carrier didn’t charge any extra for them or my winch and winch bumper.

Oh yeah, I haven't had one problem with the plastic air-lines just make sure they are routed good, like away from the exhaust pipe and headers and zip-tied out of the way. I did run that plastic protector stuff over them to help protect them.

Nitro Hotpants

i too have an ARB in the rear, it has been nothing but good for the time i have had it. (close to a year) i havent had any problems, and just like what EVERYONE else said, its all about how its setup. if you get a good install, you wont have any problems. i say go for it, you wont be disappointed.

-Casey

PAhydrohead

doink,

I have had my ARB since 1985 and the only problem I had was oil leaking out of the air soleniod valve by the compressor. That was due to a faulty o-ring in the diff at install and was corrected right away by the installer. Since then no problems. I still have an open diff in the front and one ARB will get you places you never thought you could go! Then again, it can get you into some places you wish you didn't try to go so explore wisely. My compressor seems to cycle on and off pretty often when I have the occasion to use the locker so I may have a leak somewhere in the line but the locker still works great.

Flyg's stainless lines are something I may do because the blue air line has plenty of places to rub on its way back to the diff and I have wrapped some of those areas already with black electrical tape as a precaution.

Gadget

I have front and rear ARBs.

Click, LOCKED. Click, UNLOCKED!!!!

They work just that fast.

Now about that air line. Never had a problem, don't expect one either. One thing to keep in mind, if you melt one from improper routing, then upgrading to stainless will not do you any good since inside the stainless braid is PLASTIC liner.

Anyway, installation is everything and if installed correctly you are going to love the lockers and you will not believe the additional traction you will have.

I go over things nice and easy with no drama where guys without lockers spin tires, take a couple of tries and then take a hard run at something. My truck will just walk over these things. You will much less of a chance of breaking something since you will have much less wheel spin and you can take thing much slower and easier. Overall I am very glad I installed the ARBs.

See you at the EC4RJ!!!

Gadget

Bratik

I also have front and rear ARB and I've been very happy with them. So for I used them only few times but I wouldn't trade them for anything else.

See you at EC4RJ04, can't wait

Gadget

Wait just a minute,,, You mean the Russians now have lockers? I can wait to see what you try now!!!!

Gadget

doink

so i am pretty much sold on the air lockers now. hopefully i can get one, along with my gears put in.

bratik-

who put yours in? . also, how much? i just got a quote for like 3k..i think they screwed something up on the computer...

oh, and would you want to carpool to ec4rj?

Joe

Usually when gear lube leaks from the solenoid on Toyota's is because the housing vent tube is too small and pressure builds up in the housing forcing gear lube up the airline. The quick fix is to check your valve and hose to make sure it's clear and if so, you'll have to drill and tap the vent hole to 1/4 or larger. If this happens on the trail just disassemble the solenoid and clean the o-rings and it'll function as good as new until you really work your lockers again and then you just might have to clean it again. I don't know if ARB has corrected this problem or not, as I know they were looking into it a year or so ago. If your compressor is kicking in and out I would recommend that you use soapy water and bush it all over your compressor and solenoids - You should see plenty of air bubbles where ever you're losing air. If you see bubbles coming from the compressor can just tighten the bolt at the end of the tank (can). Normally the leak will be coming from a solenoid and using Teflon tape on the shanks and snubbing it up will cure the problem.

Bratik

Hey,
The guy who installed my lockers and PG 4:88 is Danny white he is a owner of http://www.geared-to-go.com, very cool guy, easy to work with. I brought to him 3rd member and front dif and in 2 days he installed PG gears and lockers, he also order all parts for me. My total cost was about $2500 for everything. I had to install 3rd member my self and wire ARB compressor which was very simple. Did you mean caravan to the EC4RJ? cause my car is always full of people and I wouldn't have any room. All these years MarcZ and I caravan to these events. It'll be great to have another 4runner from Atlanta going with us.

doink

hmm, thats good to hear. i might have to give this guy my business. an yeah, i meant caravan to ec4rj. if i get this locker /gear situation set it..im DEFINITELy going