4runner96

I am replacing a timing belt on a 96 4runner with the V6 engine. The Toyota Shop manual is my reference backed up by Haynes Manual. I noticed when we removed the old belt that with the timing marks on the three pullies lined up the original placement lines on the old belt did not line up with the pully marks. When the replacement belt is installed by placing the new belt cam and crank placement lines at the appropriate timing marks, the tensioner is installed and the engine is rotated by hand the following is noted. The timing marks always line up appropriately but the placement lines marked on the new belt do not line up with the tooth at the timing notch like they were placed originally. My question. Are the placement lines on the belt simply for ease of installation and is it a factor of the differing pully sizes that allow the markings on the belt to move in relationship to the way it was originally installed. Perhaps after X number of revolutions, the lines will at one time or another be back at the initial position. Don't get me wrong, I am comfortable that the belt has not jumped any teeth and like I said, the two cam and the crank timing marks always line up when the engine is at top dead center. I am just trying to understand what I am seeing. I've pulled the new belt and repeated the process twice and always had the same result. Usually the first go around the three lines are one tooth off original placement on all three pullies. More revolutions, they get further off and always the same number of teeth off on each pully. Any comment and insight is appreciated.

eric-the-red

You are correct, the lines are only for the initial install. I think they would eventually line up with enough revolutions, but as long as the timing marks line up you're OK.

Cloudbase

I'm doing this right now and just observed what the original poster described. Thinking my tensioner was bad, I considered giving up and towing to the dealer. But thank god you asked that question, because I'm confident that everything is correct...

mt_goat

Here's a couple write ups:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timing_belt/

http://www.toy4x4.net/timing_belt/index.htm

youngbuck

When I changed my timing belt, I made sure the engine was at TDC, and all the lines on the belt were lined up perfectly with the lines on the crank/cam pullies. Then, I just pulled the retainer pin out of the t-belt tensioner, while still making sure all the lines were lined up. It helped having another person to help me keep the belt lined up on all three of the pullies at the same time w/out one of the cams moving or the belt falling off.

IIRC, I lined everything up with the upper-idler off, then I installed and torqued the upper-idler, and then released the tensioner. Worked perfectly.

Cloudbase

Thanks for the write ups. I've been using the 4x4wire one.

I've got the timing belt on, but stopped at re-installing the crank shaft pulley. I'm off to find a 217lb torque wrench tomorrow and finish the job.

mt_goat

I found mine at Home Depot.

ryanman

information was passed to me saying that instead of making that tool you can just put a breaker bar on the crank pulley rest it on the frame, and crank over the engine, in my case i have both heads off currently.... I might try that approach rather then trying to get this tool made with my lack of funds

rocket

iTrader: (1)

If you have a 5pd tranny, do it and you might be surprised how great it works. One quick crank is all it takes.

mt_goat

That only works for taking the bolt OFF, how are you going to retorque the bolt to 217 ft-lbs?

ryanman

just impact it on with some locktight?

One_96TR4

Not a good idea. Not bad a a quick temp fix but you should really get it torqued to the proper specs.

mt_goat

Wrong! Read and learn something about the 5VZFE:

http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Articles/012007_04.html