Are 4runner 4cyl's reliable??????????
06-29-2009, 07:47 PM
#21
If oil changes were the ONLY thing...
I would start with the fluids...diffs, tranny, power steering, coolant etc. Those could be very dirty at 140k...easy to change. I would check the pads and rotors as well.
Have you test drove this vehicle or brought it some place to have it inspected? That's a good way to know what you are getting into. You can listen to and feel the vehicle. If anything feels odd to you or you just don't know, it may be wise to take it somewhere and explain that it's a possible purchase and you would like a go-over of it...
I would start with the fluids...diffs, tranny, power steering, coolant etc. Those could be very dirty at 140k...easy to change. I would check the pads and rotors as well.
Have you test drove this vehicle or brought it some place to have it inspected? That's a good way to know what you are getting into. You can listen to and feel the vehicle. If anything feels odd to you or you just don't know, it may be wise to take it somewhere and explain that it's a possible purchase and you would like a go-over of it...
06-29-2009, 10:42 PM
#22
Registered User
I think this statement has to many variables to have a good answer.
First good one would be auto or manual?
In my driveway sits a 99 single cab Taco 2.7 (33's 5 speed 4.10 gears), As well as a 99 4Runner 2.7 (5speed Had stock 28's ? now 31's).
The 4runner performed well on STOCK tires, feels a tiny bit heavy but deff had the pep.
With the 31's its a bit of a dog, yes I said 31" tires. I believe its cause the stock gears are waaayy to tall. like 3.73 or 3.90's
Gearing would be your friend on that one, duh.
My Taco though, Almost felt stock with the same 31's that are now on my dads 4Runner.
It was pretty quick for what it is.
Some food for thought : The 2.7 has the same HP ratings as the previous generations' V6.
If you plan on lifting and putting bigger tires, you might not get any type of good gas mileage, the 2.7 just doesnt have enough power to move a 4runner and 33's easily, And this is from my experience on my single cab, not on a 4runner, thats just my logic.
And like others have said, the 2.7's are great motors, Can go 300k without a problem if maintained well.
Although, there is the exhaust manifold cracking problem, and if that is left unattended for too long the motor will burn a valve, probably 4 and youll be burning oil at 105k (ask me how I know)
Go for it, you wont be let down.
(Warning, Shameless plug)
06-30-2009, 04:35 AM
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My Runner would be completely stock..
I will not modify anything.
It will be strictly for getting my family and small cargo around town, and maybe a few road trips..
I am about to make the purchase this morning and I will post pics of it when I do..
I had a 2001 Honda accord 4cyl before this Runner and it was so SLOW.
Especially with the A/c On. Im not looking for a race car by any means, but I need something to keep up with traffic. I will be on the highway about 70% of the time.
I will not modify anything.
It will be strictly for getting my family and small cargo around town, and maybe a few road trips..
I am about to make the purchase this morning and I will post pics of it when I do..
I had a 2001 Honda accord 4cyl before this Runner and it was so SLOW.
Especially with the A/c On. Im not looking for a race car by any means, but I need something to keep up with traffic. I will be on the highway about 70% of the time.
06-30-2009, 07:12 AM
#27
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i just bought the 4runner!!
LOve the truck!
I find that the 4cyl is a bit underpowered for such a large suv..
but it gets the job done...
I hope this suv will last for the next 10 yrs or so
LOve the truck!
I find that the 4cyl is a bit underpowered for such a large suv..
but it gets the job done...
I hope this suv will last for the next 10 yrs or so
06-30-2009, 08:18 AM
#28
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You will get 10 years out of it easy. I also am a huge 4cyl fan. You just cant beat them. But, I found with the 3.4 that you get ALOT more power and awesome reliability with the 3.4 and sacrafice MAYBE 1-2 MPG......... Maybe. The 2.7 is a little bit like the old 22RE in that way, you get the power of a small 4cyl with the fuel economy of a v8, AWESOME!
I assume your truck is a 2x4? If so, stick with the 4cyl unless you want to tow something. The market is so saturated with V6's that a V6 can actaully be had for a little bit cheaper.
I assume your truck is a 2x4? If so, stick with the 4cyl unless you want to tow something. The market is so saturated with V6's that a V6 can actaully be had for a little bit cheaper.
06-30-2009, 08:49 AM
#29
Registered User
So...what more do you want to know about the 2.7s? I've owned my '97 4runner 2.7L for 4 years now with no major problems. I did have to replace the exhaust manifold which you definitely need to check on. I was able to see my crack through the heat shield but it'd be best to take it off and look a bit harder. Its an easy change.
That has been the only thing I've HAD to worry about. I've done some other modifications but nothing major.
It is a bit of a dog when in 4hi or when heading down the highway. Hitting hills slows it down pretty rapidly but just understand it, accept it and move on. Your cruise will definitely not be able to keep up either so I generally don't use CC.
Mine is sitting at 148k miles now and pulls strong still.
I have heard of some people needing to get a valve job around 200k miles as they tend to get out of spec but thats about it.
Get us some pics and shoot me a PM if I can help with anything.
That has been the only thing I've HAD to worry about. I've done some other modifications but nothing major.
It is a bit of a dog when in 4hi or when heading down the highway. Hitting hills slows it down pretty rapidly but just understand it, accept it and move on. Your cruise will definitely not be able to keep up either so I generally don't use CC.
Mine is sitting at 148k miles now and pulls strong still.
I have heard of some people needing to get a valve job around 200k miles as they tend to get out of spec but thats about it.
Get us some pics and shoot me a PM if I can help with anything.
06-30-2009, 10:05 AM
#30
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
^^ hey thanks for the info and support.
I just came back from driving it on the highway...
Its very weak..
Its pretty tough to get it past 60.. it likes to take its time to get up to speed..
Mine is sitting right at 142k..
I havent really seen any 4cyls with 200-300k.. Can someone link me to them??
I just came back from driving it on the highway...
Its very weak..
Its pretty tough to get it past 60.. it likes to take its time to get up to speed..
Mine is sitting right at 142k..
I havent really seen any 4cyls with 200-300k.. Can someone link me to them??
06-30-2009, 01:37 PM
#31
Registered User
It is pretty gutless on the highway...which is really its only downfall in my eyes.
It'll be hard to find high mileage 2.7L 3rd Gens because well there aren't a lot out there. Do an autotrader search for 4cyl Tacomas and you'll find some. They have the same powerplant.
It'll be hard to find high mileage 2.7L 3rd Gens because well there aren't a lot out there. Do an autotrader search for 4cyl Tacomas and you'll find some. They have the same powerplant.
06-30-2009, 01:59 PM
#32
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I talked to the former owner about the exaughst manifold issue, and she said the car never had any issue with it..
Im not mechanically inclined myself, so Im afraid that I might be overlooking it.
I might swing by a mechnic shop to make sure..
Im not mechanically inclined myself, so Im afraid that I might be overlooking it.
I might swing by a mechnic shop to make sure..
06-30-2009, 03:23 PM
#33
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey Skrilla Ive spotted the exaust manifold crack!
What should I do???
How much is it gonna cost me to repalce it with the mini headers?
Parts and labor)
I dont have a whole lot of money, and I suspect that its been cracked for a while now
What should I do???
How much is it gonna cost me to repalce it with the mini headers?
Parts and labor)
I dont have a whole lot of money, and I suspect that its been cracked for a while now
06-30-2009, 03:52 PM
#34
IMO, I would look to purchase those mini headers...and install it yourself.
I know you are not mechanically inclined, but there are not that many bolts and with a 2.7 there is enough room to get around in there. There's nothing that can really go wrong, because those mini's were meant to replace the poorly designed manifolds, in the stock manner.
Check the sticky at the top of the page...it has a complete guide to the install...and because you say you are low in coin, this will be the cheapest way to go at it. Also, remember to get a new exhaust manifold gasket. Good luck with the install!
I know you are not mechanically inclined, but there are not that many bolts and with a 2.7 there is enough room to get around in there. There's nothing that can really go wrong, because those mini's were meant to replace the poorly designed manifolds, in the stock manner.
Check the sticky at the top of the page...it has a complete guide to the install...and because you say you are low in coin, this will be the cheapest way to go at it. Also, remember to get a new exhaust manifold gasket. Good luck with the install!
07-01-2009, 08:30 AM
#36
Registered User
LIke the others have said...its a do-it-yourself kind of job.
Really all you need to do is take off the air intake system which has a few bolts and clamps connecting the pipes (5-10 mins), take off the heat shield (10-15 mins) cause they are a pain...then get a good breaker bar and socket sets and crank of the manifold bolts that connect it to the block. It will then connect to the header pipe underneath and to a small exhaust port at the back. You'll see what I'm talking about when you see it...but honestly thats it. Its not a hard project in fact it was the first one I did to my 4runner and I wasn't mechanically inclined either...now I'm dropping axles, upgrading suspension, etc. etc. You gotta start somewhere.
Deathcougar (major contributing member on here) has the complete "mini-header kit" available for purchase which I think runs somewhere around $300 for everything you need. The mini header system was a redesign by Toyota on the later model Tacomas since manifold cracks were typical in the "old" design (what 96-2000 had). Its a good set-up and you shouldn't have the problem again. At the time of replacing mine, the "mini header" idea wasn't "discovered" per-say so I just ordered an OEM one off Ebay for like $90 bucks. When I do it again, I'd go with the mini.
Here is the link to the "mini-header" install setup which basically walks you through the process step by step. Deathcougar placed a few posts on this thread so you'll see him. Shoot him a PM and he'll hook you up.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/o...l-pics-157752/
**EDIT**..You will want to get this taken care of soon. If not, you will likely burn exhaust valves and other vital components then you'll need a new top end rebuild...so don't screw around with this. Just get'r done.
**EDIT AGAIN**...When replacing, it might be a good idea to go to Toyota and tell them you need some extra studs and nuts for the exhaust manifold as you may break one when taking it off. It didn't happen to me but I've heard of others whos had it happen and they that will set you back like 5 bucks but at least you'll have everything right there in case it happens.
Really all you need to do is take off the air intake system which has a few bolts and clamps connecting the pipes (5-10 mins), take off the heat shield (10-15 mins) cause they are a pain...then get a good breaker bar and socket sets and crank of the manifold bolts that connect it to the block. It will then connect to the header pipe underneath and to a small exhaust port at the back. You'll see what I'm talking about when you see it...but honestly thats it. Its not a hard project in fact it was the first one I did to my 4runner and I wasn't mechanically inclined either...now I'm dropping axles, upgrading suspension, etc. etc. You gotta start somewhere.
Deathcougar (major contributing member on here) has the complete "mini-header kit" available for purchase which I think runs somewhere around $300 for everything you need. The mini header system was a redesign by Toyota on the later model Tacomas since manifold cracks were typical in the "old" design (what 96-2000 had). Its a good set-up and you shouldn't have the problem again. At the time of replacing mine, the "mini header" idea wasn't "discovered" per-say so I just ordered an OEM one off Ebay for like $90 bucks. When I do it again, I'd go with the mini.
Here is the link to the "mini-header" install setup which basically walks you through the process step by step. Deathcougar placed a few posts on this thread so you'll see him. Shoot him a PM and he'll hook you up.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/o...l-pics-157752/
**EDIT**..You will want to get this taken care of soon. If not, you will likely burn exhaust valves and other vital components then you'll need a new top end rebuild...so don't screw around with this. Just get'r done.
**EDIT AGAIN**...When replacing, it might be a good idea to go to Toyota and tell them you need some extra studs and nuts for the exhaust manifold as you may break one when taking it off. It didn't happen to me but I've heard of others whos had it happen and they that will set you back like 5 bucks but at least you'll have everything right there in case it happens.
Last edited by Skrillah; 07-01-2009 at 08:35 AM.
07-02-2009, 07:56 AM
#37
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: delaware
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
my 98 2.7 is an auto and has 178K miles on it. I've owned it since 64k. I've put an exhaust manifold, 2 sets of starter contacts, 1 injector, and just recently a cat converter. One thing to look at is whether it has CA emissions. That made the difference for me from a $225 direct fit aftermarket cat and a $1385 OEM cat. They do not make, as far as i can tell, a direct fit replacement cat for CA emissions, other than OEM. My 4runner had the OEM 1998 Spark plug wires on it until the injector went on it at 168k. And they didn't actually need replacement- i was fishing on a diagnosis, since the misfire didn't happen frequently enough to get a solid diag. I've kept up on all the maintenace- oil changes, spark plugs and even did the "no-service-interval" fuel filter somewhere around 105K. Keep the throttle body clean, it seems to stick at a regular interval.
The only things that i have "modded" are the K&N FIPK, and a magaflow muffler, since the other one was leaking. I noticed a mild MPG improvement, but not more than 2 mpg. The biggest MPG improvement i had was when i switched the BFG all terrains out for the Michelin LTX at2s. I get 19-21 on the highway and 17 under normal conditions.
But to have under $2k invested (not including stuff like the OME suspension and other "wants"), in an 11 year old truck with 178K miles on it, that's a testament to the engine and the truck.
The only things that i have "modded" are the K&N FIPK, and a magaflow muffler, since the other one was leaking. I noticed a mild MPG improvement, but not more than 2 mpg. The biggest MPG improvement i had was when i switched the BFG all terrains out for the Michelin LTX at2s. I get 19-21 on the highway and 17 under normal conditions.
But to have under $2k invested (not including stuff like the OME suspension and other "wants"), in an 11 year old truck with 178K miles on it, that's a testament to the engine and the truck.
07-02-2009, 08:04 AM
#38
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great^^^
Good to hear that the 2.7 runner is pretty reliable.
IS your runner pretty sluggish from a takeoff?
Mine seems to be really slow on takeoff and take forever to get up to speed..
I dont know if thats just the way the motor is or if I have an underlying problem...
Good to hear that the 2.7 runner is pretty reliable.
IS your runner pretty sluggish from a takeoff?
Mine seems to be really slow on takeoff and take forever to get up to speed..
I dont know if thats just the way the motor is or if I have an underlying problem...
07-02-2009, 08:09 AM
#39
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
my 98 2.7 is an auto and has 178K miles on it. I've owned it since 64k. I've put an exhaust manifold, 2 sets of starter contacts, 1 injector, and just recently a cat converter. One thing to look at is whether it has CA emissions. That made the difference for me from a $225 direct fit aftermarket cat and a $1385 OEM cat. They do not make, as far as i can tell, a direct fit replacement cat for CA emissions, other than OEM. My 4runner had the OEM 1998 Spark plug wires on it until the injector went on it at 168k. And they didn't actually need replacement- i was fishing on a diagnosis, since the misfire didn't happen frequently enough to get a solid diag. I've kept up on all the maintenace- oil changes, spark plugs and even did the "no-service-interval" fuel filter somewhere around 105K. Keep the throttle body clean, it seems to stick at a regular interval.
The only things that i have "modded" are the K&N FIPK, and a magaflow muffler, since the other one was leaking. I noticed a mild MPG improvement, but not more than 2 mpg. The biggest MPG improvement i had was when i switched the BFG all terrains out for the Michelin LTX at2s. I get 19-21 on the highway and 17 under normal conditions.
But to have under $2k invested (not including stuff like the OME suspension and other "wants"), in an 11 year old truck with 178K miles on it, that's a testament to the engine and the truck.
The only things that i have "modded" are the K&N FIPK, and a magaflow muffler, since the other one was leaking. I noticed a mild MPG improvement, but not more than 2 mpg. The biggest MPG improvement i had was when i switched the BFG all terrains out for the Michelin LTX at2s. I get 19-21 on the highway and 17 under normal conditions.
But to have under $2k invested (not including stuff like the OME suspension and other "wants"), in an 11 year old truck with 178K miles on it, that's a testament to the engine and the truck.
What do you mean by "your injector went'?
Should I be worried about this issue as well?
What happened, and why did it go?
What exactly does that mean?
07-02-2009, 08:49 AM
#40
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: delaware
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
it is a little boggish when taking off, but you'll get used to it. like someone else said, you have to plan your passes and all that. But i'll take that and the extra mpg over a 3.4 that you have to change the belt and only gets (usually) 17 mpg at best.
I had an dead miss intermittently- it would just start shuddering and carrying on. Wasn't enough to throw a code, but i found a P0303 stored in pending, cyl #3 misfire. eventually, it became a major issue- as soon as it would warm up, the thing would miss. Was able to ohm the injectors out and found that #3 was higher than all the rest. it got a new one and it cured everything. Trust me, you'll know when an injector is failing. I only replaced one, since it is about the same price from the dealer as from the aftermarket places.
I had an dead miss intermittently- it would just start shuddering and carrying on. Wasn't enough to throw a code, but i found a P0303 stored in pending, cyl #3 misfire. eventually, it became a major issue- as soon as it would warm up, the thing would miss. Was able to ohm the injectors out and found that #3 was higher than all the rest. it got a new one and it cured everything. Trust me, you'll know when an injector is failing. I only replaced one, since it is about the same price from the dealer as from the aftermarket places.
