thaddeusss

so... I just did a valve adjustment on my #2 tacoma this afternoon. it was fine before, after I finished the job I went to start it and it only ran for 3 seconds before dying. not sputtering, it just cold dies. it will fire back up instantly, only to die again 3 seconds later. if I reset the ECU it will run for 5 seconds before the CEL comes on and it dies, then back to 3 seconds each time. roughly... I didn't actually time it. but it is the same every time unless I reset the ECU.

what did I do? I can't find anything wrong... I've successfully done head rebuilds on 2 tacomas before this one, (can you guess why I'm adjusting the valves on this one?) so I'm familiar with what I'm doing. I'm stumped.

the CEL is on, which it wasn't before, but I don't have a scan tool currently to find out what it says. finally giving in and going to get one tomorrow... but I can't make it to the store 3 seconds at a time!!!

only thing I can think of is maybe damaging the coils or something (it's a 95.5 with distributor) when I cranked it a few times to seat the valve shims before double-checking the lash. I had the distributor cap off.

anyone have any ideas???

toyota4x4907

This sounds like the issue that arises when the AFM/VAFM/MAF isnt plugged in correctly

PismoJoe

Did you for some reason disconnect the top camshaft position sensor? Also, check the coolant temp sensor wire for the ECU on the back of the head.

Other than that, get a scan tool so you can start somewhere.

thaddeusss

thanks for the tip. discovered today that if I hold the throttle open for about 30 seconds, after that it will continue to run normally until I shut it off again. if I let off the throttle during that 30 sec window it will die instantly.

the truck had obviously never even had the valve cover off in its 202,000 miles... the plastic harness protector that goes around the rear of the head was super brittle and started shattering when I had to move it to access the rear valve cover bolts. I noticed the wire on the coolant sensor next to the distributor is cracked all the way round where it enters the sensor...

I am stumped without a code reader. although... this is a 95.5 and has the earlier style diagnostic port as well as the obdII port. I should be able to jump the E1/Te1 connector and read the CEL, but it's not working for some reason. stumped about that too.

I did a head job on my ex's 95.5 last year, and accidentally left the sensor on the back of the head unplugged... I don't remember it having this symptom, but then sometimes my memory ain't that good!

doesn't have a CPS, it's distributor ignition.

PismoJoe

It could be a stuck IAC valve, which would explain why when you let it warm up a bit by holding the throttle it idles but does not when you do not do this.

If you can get a live data scan tool check the iac valve duty position, it should be near 80% or more dead cold.

If not, try hitting the valve with a brass drift and hammer to see if you can manually unstick it.

thaddeusss

got it fixed.

there is a cam position sensor, it's integrated into the distributor on 95 & possibly 96 3rz 's.

somehow, despite marking the position of the dist. cap @ TDC when removing the camshafts and checking it when re-installing them, I had managed to shift the dizzy gear one tooth off. I think the ECU also uses the crank angle sensor, so it will still run with bad data from the cam sensor, and the cap is wide enough the spark can just barely jump from the corner of the contact.

anyway, I found TDC, saw that my mark was off, pulled the dizzy and re-inserted on the correct tooth and problem solved.

haha searching for solutions to my problem I saw a whole lot of threads on boards all over the net where people were being told that their engine might even be a 22R because they had a distributor...

vikkz

Nice feeling when you figure out the problem, why dont you try getting one of them cheap obd II bluetooth scanners from amazon they are only $10-25 and you use any android phone with the torque app this is what I use its hell of alot cheaper then a regular scan tool $120 vs $15-30 with the app that you buy.

thaddeusss

I looked into this. I made the mistake of getting an iphone last summer, on a family plan and figured I could share apps with everybody and save $. dumb. now I want one of those BT scanners, but... apple doesn't play nice with bluetooth, they only 'approve' devices from manufacturers who pay them to do it. so no bluetooth scanners for me. there are wifi ones but they cost $100 or more, and also no apps for iphone less than $50. F^ you apple!!! I'm definitely switching as soon as I get a chance. I'm gettin' tired of how gimmicky and un-functional the iphone really is.