koyota93

Do anyone have any tips on removal of my engine? Any old threads? I am getting a used longblock that I am swapping in. Does anyone know if it is easier to pull the motor out with the auto trans attached? I will be doing it in my garage and only have basic hand tools, cherry picker, and floor jack ( no Trans jack). Am I getting myself into the job from hell or what? It seems pretty straightforward because it is a complete long block. Well, any help is greatly appreciated.

dragon564

Get a FSM or one of the other from CHILTONS, HAYNES something......oh yeah i almost forgot GOOD LUCK..

arjan

I left my trannie in. Just make sure you have enough extensions for getting to the top bolts on the the bell housing. I think I used three extensions for those. I replaced the engine with two friend in one long evening. I found it not too bad to do.

I unplugged the wiring harnass from the engine and laid it down on the windshield. You'll have to take off the intake plenum to get to the plugs at the injectors. This makes removing some coolant hoses easier too though.

If you have any particular questions, just let me know.

koyota93

Thanks for the help. My S/C and one of the heads is already off, so i shouldnt have problems with the harness. In the Haynes manuel, it says to take off the radiator core support and grill. Did you have to do that arjan? What does FSM stand for?

arjan

I only took out the radiator and the grill. I was worried the engine would hit the rad, and make my project even bigger. FSM is the factory service manual, the service manual from Toyota available at the dealer. They are pricey, I don't have one.

I never took the heads off. I just unbolted the engine mounts, bellhousing which includes the starter and a dustplate on my 5spd (not sure if an auto has one). The bolts on the dustplate were a pain, and I managed to take a couple out with extensions from in front of the engine. That was all easy when the rad, alternator and powersteering pump were out of the way. That created a lot of room. The exhaust is only three nuts which didn't give me any problems after I used some liquid wrench. That stuff worked like a charm on the rusted nuts.

I hope things are cooparating for you, and keep us updated.

koyota93

Yeah, the heads are only off because we intiallly thought it was a blown head gasket, but then found a hole in the piston with a fat gouge in the cylinder wall.

93ToyKid

Removal is pretty easy. I would definately leave the tranny in place. One thing you may have to consider, I also put a "new" used longblock from a 94 4Runner in my 89 truck (3.0). Well, Toyota made it very difficult for us. I planned on just swapping the motors, and that was it. Not so. They changed so much crap on these engines form 89 to 94. We ended up swapping all sorts of sensors, coolant lines, event the intake plenum to make it work. I still have a sensor which had no place to hook it up in the new engine. Oh well.....finally got it all to work. Don't know if you will have this problem, but if you do, things can be swapped between the motors to make it work. We even had to swap the air conditioning bracket, because of a different offset. The thing that made me mad was that I had to take the plenum off just to unplug the wiring harness. I wish there was a plug on the fender or something, but oh well. Anyway, it's pretty easy, just take your time. Oh, and if the truck is an auto, it is IMPERATIVE that the torque converter stays ON THE TRANNY, or you will have lots and lots of oil on the floor.

rimpainter.com

BruceTS also has experience with this. You may want to hit him up. He had his engine R&R'd in record time if I remember correctly.