OrRunner's 1987 4Runner Build-Up Thread
#62
Thanks for the photos of the diamond plate -looks great!
It was me who asked about the corners
Seems like you used 2 pieces of plate (one black on the bottom part) for each side - can I ask why you did it that way? Is that bottom part of the D plate covered in herculiner or something?
Truck looks at home in the snow
Thanks again for the pics!
It was me who asked about the corners
Seems like you used 2 pieces of plate (one black on the bottom part) for each side - can I ask why you did it that way? Is that bottom part of the D plate covered in herculiner or something?
Truck looks at home in the snow
Thanks again for the pics!
Yea, its actually 1 piece for each side, when i used the pop rivets to attach the diamond plate to the truck, i didnt get them all extremely tight, so when i had the pan and bumpers linexed, i had them go up a couple of inches onto the diamond plate, i also put a bead of silicon sealer in the corner of the floor where the diamond plate meets the floor, gave it a nice clean "finish" type look, and made some of the rattles a little more quiet!
#64
Heard back from the machine shop yesterday and got to pick up my block and rebuild kit, total was 660.00 for the following:
tank/flux
bore .020 over
machine crank/rods
sleeve #4 cylynder (had rust in a wear spot)
new pistons/rebuild kit
full gasket kit
timing set/oil pump
Really it was only 300.00 in parts and 360.00 in labor, but i ordered a "heavy duty" timing set with the metal guides and ended up with the plastic, they are ordering a new timing set today and i will get it in the am. I am going to get to the shop and paint the block on thursday, with the lower end build being done on tuesday. pics will be posted accordingly.
Fair warning, this is going to be a slow build as my motor in the runner in running great . I decided to go this route so when i get this motor done, im going to build the one i have in currently for a project with a buddy of mine.
tank/flux
bore .020 over
machine crank/rods
sleeve #4 cylynder (had rust in a wear spot)
new pistons/rebuild kit
full gasket kit
timing set/oil pump
Really it was only 300.00 in parts and 360.00 in labor, but i ordered a "heavy duty" timing set with the metal guides and ended up with the plastic, they are ordering a new timing set today and i will get it in the am. I am going to get to the shop and paint the block on thursday, with the lower end build being done on tuesday. pics will be posted accordingly.
Fair warning, this is going to be a slow build as my motor in the runner in running great . I decided to go this route so when i get this motor done, im going to build the one i have in currently for a project with a buddy of mine.
#65
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Location: Milwaukie, Oregon
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Just curious. What machine shop are you using? Did you find a good one? I have a complete engine less the head sitting in the back of my truck now. It had a blown hg and cracked head. The block has been bored .040 already. I plan to build it up as a replacement for the tired 22re in my truck now. I'm going with an enginebldr head and 261 cam as well.
I'll be watching your build. Subscribed!
Maybe we'll have a yt run one of these days here in Oregon, huh?
I'll be watching your build. Subscribed!
Maybe we'll have a yt run one of these days here in Oregon, huh?
#66
Just curious. What machine shop are you using? Did you find a good one? I have a complete engine less the head sitting in the back of my truck now. It had a blown hg and cracked head. The block has been bored .040 already. I plan to build it up as a replacement for the tired 22re in my truck now. I'm going with an enginebldr head and 261 cam as well.
I'll be watching your build. Subscribed!
Maybe we'll have a yt run one of these days here in Oregon, huh?
I'll be watching your build. Subscribed!
Maybe we'll have a yt run one of these days here in Oregon, huh?
And yes, i would love to have an oregon y/t meet up, seems like it would be at browns outside of portland, i know last year there was a run that way with alot of the wash. guys. i am going to try and make that one if it works out with my job
#67
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Location: Milwaukie, Oregon
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Yeah. Medford would be a little far for me. lol. I'll probably take it to enginebldr for the machine work then. I didn't know if they had a full machine shop.
#70
Oi oi oi, been awhile since i updated, kind of got off track, then ran into the best thing ever.....i was putting together my motor (finally got all the goodies) and got to the point of tapping the head bolt holes to clean them up. All felt nice and smooth, no hang ups and there didnt seem to be much of anyhing in the holes. Got to the 3rd one on the pass side and the tap wiggled kind of funny, started looking real close in the whole and found the bottom portion of the whole was stripped out. now keep in mind, the machine shop that did all the machining said they "clean tapped all head bolt holes" well this one was not so clean.....head bolt will thread but not torque at all......Helicoil right.....? Yea not so much on a head bolt, dont like that idea, so i am going to pick up another short block for 125.00 then i get to have that one tanked and machined again....anyways should get it back by friday and i will paint, then saturday i will start to put it all back together again...
#75
Well, i have made some progress with my motor. Pretty much have the long block ready, still need to swap some stuff for my TB and Intake. Going to be doing that tomorrow then start ripping out the old motor. Hope to have this up and running by fri night or sat morning, wish me luck!
Last edited by OrRunner; 08-30-2010 at 07:05 PM.
#77
got the exhaust done and on. I ended up going with magna flow all the way through, running a high flo cat, with the medium size can (18" i think) and 2.25" piping all the way back. Tucked a little bit for clearance and i love the way it sounds, not to loud unless you really get on it. At idle, you cant even really tell it has aftermarket exhuast. Now i need to start collecting stuff for an SAS, but that may be a bit.
#79
alright guys, I need a little help!
I got my motor in and done and it seems to be running great, however, I am having 2 issues:
1-a slight "hicup" at idle, when warm not cold, the motor just stubles a tiny bit and it seems to repeat ever 60 or so seconds, I think this may be timing related, how ever when Jumper the T-E1 terminals in the diagnostic box I dont get an idle down, like its not bypassing what its supposed to. I have tried this warm and cold? any input?
2-I am also getting a slight hesitation when under load, seems very sporadic, cant nail down a patter. I am thinking this may be due to a tps adjustment as my tps tested fine, also could be related to my o2 sensor which was replaced (with a bosch). I ordered a denso o2 today and will install on sat morning. When this is done should i disconnect neg term on the battery to reset computer? or does the o2 sensor just need to run and it will correct the ecu on its own?
little more info:
no check eng light, no codes, other than that everything seems to be good, including vacum lines. No apparent or noticable vacum leaks or ehaust leaks. I did not do anything with VAF? or what ever that sensor in the air box is called? But i did not have any issues with the airbox before the new motor. Last, the the "hicup" i am refering to above was also present with the last motor so not realy sure its timing relate but i guess it could be.
any reccomendations or information on these things is greatly appricated!
I got my motor in and done and it seems to be running great, however, I am having 2 issues:
1-a slight "hicup" at idle, when warm not cold, the motor just stubles a tiny bit and it seems to repeat ever 60 or so seconds, I think this may be timing related, how ever when Jumper the T-E1 terminals in the diagnostic box I dont get an idle down, like its not bypassing what its supposed to. I have tried this warm and cold? any input?
2-I am also getting a slight hesitation when under load, seems very sporadic, cant nail down a patter. I am thinking this may be due to a tps adjustment as my tps tested fine, also could be related to my o2 sensor which was replaced (with a bosch). I ordered a denso o2 today and will install on sat morning. When this is done should i disconnect neg term on the battery to reset computer? or does the o2 sensor just need to run and it will correct the ecu on its own?
little more info:
no check eng light, no codes, other than that everything seems to be good, including vacum lines. No apparent or noticable vacum leaks or ehaust leaks. I did not do anything with VAF? or what ever that sensor in the air box is called? But i did not have any issues with the airbox before the new motor. Last, the the "hicup" i am refering to above was also present with the last motor so not realy sure its timing relate but i guess it could be.
any reccomendations or information on these things is greatly appricated!
#80
Holy crap, I just realized that I did not update when this problem was taken care of....anyways under reccomendation from THOOK, I re-adjusted my tps, which helped quite a bit, then replaced my bosch O2 with a denso, reset my timing, and now she runs fantastic.