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...I wonder if Low range H4 conversion harness converts the circuit to switched-positive and connects the common H4 pin to ground (formerly connected to positive side on stock). That may be an issue with the Trucklite which I think is polarity sensitive. Got documentation from lowrange?...
Originally Posted by 92ehatch
Sounds like you have a polarity issue with the switched ground system and headlight. To fix this you would need to convert to switched power. .
Yes there is a polarity issue.
Originally Posted by Gen1Runner
Here's the info and link to lowrange.
"This H4 Relay Harness will plug into your factory wiring harness such as on the Suzuki Samurai and Toyota vehicles and will be able to provide the power needed for your upgraded headlights from IPF, Hella and others. Simply hook up power and ground and then connect your old headlight plugs into this harness. Your old plugs power the relay to put full power to the lights for ultimate power!
Features Fused and Relay protection for headlight harness. Considering LED Headlights for your Suzuki Samura?
Know that LED lights do not work out of the box on the Samurai. The factory wiring changes ground direction between low and high beam. That works fine for incandescent bulbs which just need current to heat the element. But that does not work for LED lights which are designed for current to flow one way only. There is a solution! The Low Range Off-Road DIY-H4 headlight harness uses a relay powered by your factory headlight wiring to keep current flowing correctly all the time. Using our harness you can use H4 LED Headlights on the Suzuki.
AHA! Yes there is a polarity issue. Above info from Low Range suggests that the harness converts to switched power. This will not work on the Truck-Lites because truck-Lites are designed to work for the switched-ground system on the stock MoreFunner circuit. (See above schematic). That explains why without the conversion harness, the lights work although high-beams flicker.
High beams flicker either because power quality is poor OR lights are bad. THAT'S WHY I STRESS THAT THE HIGH-BEAM SWITCH BYPASS TEST BE DONE.
Alright RAD I finally completed the high beams switch bypass test. I tested it on the passenger side since it's closest to the battery and it stopped the flickering on the passenger side.
So what do I do next to get my high beams to work.
I also took your advice and scrapped away the paint near my grounds to get it nice and shiny.
With that H4 relay kit from lowrange I cant get the high beams to go off so I'm assuming from what I read in your last post is that kit is no good???
Cleaned up
Alright RAD I finally completed the high beams switch bypass test. I tested it on the passenger side since it's closest to the battery and it stopped the flickering on the passenger side.
So what do I do next to get my high beams to work.
I also took your advice and scrapped away the paint near my grounds to get it nice and shiny.
With that H4 relay kit from lowrange I cant get the high beams to go off so I'm assuming from what I read in your last post is that kit is no good???
Cleaned up
The dimmer-combo stalk on steering column. I believe Terry or someone else here has a post on that.
The poorly-designed wiring for the headlight subjects the switch to high currents. Once you replace the switch OR repair it, it will handle less current because of the LED's low-current draw and help increase its life.
The system will still not be ideal but will be better than if using halogens.
Ultimate fix for using Truck-lites would be an H4 conversion that does not covert to switched positive. I rewired mine but that would be too much work for you to do.
P.S. The H4 conversion harness is good for halogens.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 05-31-2017 at 11:09 PM.
With that H4 relay kit from lowrange I cant get the high beams to go off so I'm assuming from what I read in your last post is that kit is no good???
Hey Buddy,
Just wondering if you have any update on this. Since that time we were discussing this I found out a couple of things:
1) Trucklites will work with either switched positive (H4 conversion) or switched-ground (stock), AND
2) You are not the only one to have trouble with Low-Range Offroad's H4 conversion harness. Pls search the forum for that other discussion.
I haven't messed with the H4 conversion as of late. I actually removed it and hooked the truck lites up to the stock set up again. I was having the high beam issue a while back as we discussed earlier in this thread. Since than the issue has been resolved. I filed those contacts down on the dimmer switch and wouldn't you know it they work now! Super pumped on that.
As of late, I was getting a CEL on when driving on the highway that I thought was in regards to me replacing the stock exhaust manifold with an LCE header kit. I was running the single wire 02 sensor when I was throwing this CEL. It would come on when on the highway and once I let off the throttle it would disappear. Did some research most said to swap the single wire for a 4 wire. I ordered it from LCE couple weeks ago. Finally got around to installing it and the CEL is still coming on. So now I don't know what to do!??
Any thoughts or suggestions for the great minds of Yotatech.
Mounted up some 33" General Grabbers
Replaced the front and rear diffs with 4.56s
Updated all the cab lighting with LED lights.
Replaced by single wire O2 sensor with a 4-wire.
Had the stereo update, new double din deck and two 6x9s placed in the rear.
Scored a complete set of diffs on CL. Got front and rear diffs with stock 4.56 for $380.
Nothing done to suspension as of right now. Rear end has a minor sag to it. Not terrible but noticeable. Eventually I'll be doing either an add a leaf or completely new springs in the rear and BJ spacers up front. I don't really wanna lift her too much. I like the look as of right now.
Scored a complete set of diffs on CL. Got front and rear diffs with stock 4.56 for $380.
Nothing done to suspension as of right now. Rear end has a minor sag to it. Not terrible but noticeable. Eventually I'll be doing either an add a leaf or completely new springs in the rear and BJ spacers up front. I don't really wanna lift her too much. I like the look as of right now.
wow! Great deal on the diffs. The BJ spacers are a good way to go. Keeps the stock ride. I am very pleased with mine. Wish I had the 4.56s with my 31s though.
wow! Great deal on the diffs. The BJ spacers are a good way to go. Keeps the stock ride. I am very pleased with mine. Wish I had the 4.56s with my 31s though.
Yes, great deal on diffs! and yes, 2 inches max lift would be just perfect.
Oh... BTW, you may not perceive the need for it but you may want to rewire your starter relay
Would you mind enlightening me as to why I would need to? Im not aware of what kind of difference that would make. I'm not the most mechanically sound individual. Ha
No, a previous owner added rear springs with about 2" of lift and larger torsion bars. Having the hard top off
removes about 250 pounds from the rear making them stiffer. I may remove a leaf and replace it with
a spacer block to keep the lift but improve the ride. Already replaced the aftermarket torsion bars with stock
when I did the ball joint lift and that was a good move as far as improving ride quality goes.
Yeah man, I’m running BJ spacers and 2” blocks in the back, I have skyjacker nitro shocks and the ride is great. I run 30x9.50x15 atturo trail blades and it looks pretty good, the tires are not stuffed into the wheel well and the power loss is minimal, I stopped running 31x10.50 tires a while back because I live in NC and the hills/mountains make me row the gearbox too much with 31’s. If you have not done so, I’d recommend rebuilding the front end (new ball joints, pitman arm tie rod ends etc) makes it drive tight like a new rig.
Yeah man, I’m running BJ spacers and 2” blocks in the back, I have skyjacker nitro shocks and the ride is great. I run 30x9.50x15 atturo trail blades and it looks pretty good, the tires are not stuffed into the wheel well and the power loss is minimal, I stopped running 31x10.50 tires a while back because I live in NC and the hills/mountains make me row the gearbox too much with 31’s. If you have not done so, I’d recommend rebuilding the front end (new ball joints, pitman arm tie rod ends etc) makes it drive tight like a new rig.
Yeah I reckon she's probably due for a front end rebuild. Even though she's not too sloppy right now. Gotta little shake at times. What parts did you go with on your front end rebuild and what spacers?
05-26-2017, 07:59 AM
