My 1st 4Runner ('87)
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My 1st 4Runner ('87)
Before the paint job
I got this gem a little over a month ago. She bone stock and just about everything works on her ( power windows, power locks, power mirrors, AC/Heater, Cruise control, and factory stereo). She also has brand new tires which is a bonus. I'm the third owner. The second owner had it for several years and he got it from a friend's father. The father pulled it behind his motor mileage unknown for towing. It has just over 160k miles on it. She's very tight in the front end and clutch is solid. She needs some TLC and cleaning up, but overall I'm impressed by the vehicle.
A few things to fix or that I want to address:
- Valve cover gasket
- Exhaust leak (I've got a LCE header, High Flow CAT, LCE Cold Air Intake, and Magnaflow exhaust) Not sure on diameter I want to finish up with???
- New Carpet Kit ready to install
- Interior shifter boot cover
- Driver's side mirror glass is broken
- Small amount of rust in wheel well (currently at the shop being addressed and painted)
- Rear key switch to roll down the window. Switch up front works though.
- New HID headlights will be installed so I can see
- CV axle boots are torn
- Rotors are warped
These are some things that I'm looking to knock out here soon. I can do most of the basics with wrenching unfortunately can't FAB but know some people in the industry. She will be used for exploring the hills and hunting. If anyone wants to give me some ideas, help or even criticism for that matter its all greatly appreciated.
I got this gem a little over a month ago. She bone stock and just about everything works on her ( power windows, power locks, power mirrors, AC/Heater, Cruise control, and factory stereo). She also has brand new tires which is a bonus. I'm the third owner. The second owner had it for several years and he got it from a friend's father. The father pulled it behind his motor mileage unknown for towing. It has just over 160k miles on it. She's very tight in the front end and clutch is solid. She needs some TLC and cleaning up, but overall I'm impressed by the vehicle.
A few things to fix or that I want to address:
- Valve cover gasket
- Exhaust leak (I've got a LCE header, High Flow CAT, LCE Cold Air Intake, and Magnaflow exhaust) Not sure on diameter I want to finish up with???
- New Carpet Kit ready to install
- Interior shifter boot cover
- Driver's side mirror glass is broken
- Small amount of rust in wheel well (currently at the shop being addressed and painted)
- Rear key switch to roll down the window. Switch up front works though.
- New HID headlights will be installed so I can see
- CV axle boots are torn
- Rotors are warped
These are some things that I'm looking to knock out here soon. I can do most of the basics with wrenching unfortunately can't FAB but know some people in the industry. She will be used for exploring the hills and hunting. If anyone wants to give me some ideas, help or even criticism for that matter its all greatly appreciated.
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Nice find! Unless the guy removed the rear driveshaft to flat tow it, the speedometer would still work even with the truck off. So your rolling mileage would be correct but your engine would have a lot less running miles than indicated. Looks like you're going to treat it nice. Don't put HID's in reflector housings. Either do it right and get proper projectors or get a conversion housing and use the correct halogen bulbs. HID's in reflector housings don't point the light correctly and will blind oncoming traffic.
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Thanks for the info arlindsay1992. Any recommendations on which route to go with the headlights? I just want to see and be bright. I'm hoping and thinking that a good portion of the mileage is tow behind.
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I run Hella H4 conversion housings with some cheap 9003 bulbs. They are way better than the sealed beams. They are technically a European standard, not DOT, but they are made for left hand drive cars so the light output curves up on the right, not the other way around which would blind oncoming traffic. I am really happy but they are slightly pricey, about $100 for the pair. I have heard good reviews about AutoPal housings which serve the same purpose at a lower cost. I have never tried them personally but anything is an improvement over sealed beams. Do a search here for "H4 conversion" and I'm sure you'll find tons of information.
#7
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That is a real beauty. I bought Roundeyes back when they were in business, if I ever change my headlights again, I think I'll get Trucklites LED.
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Man she's a beauty. Also a nice upgrade on the exhaust. I think the 2.5" is best. I ran a 3" on an old pickup with a Thorley tri-y and the drone at highway speeds could put you to sleep. Post your progression. We all love the pics and stories that go with them
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You got a nice find. It sounds like it has all of the lights, bells and whistle. I have only seen a few as loaded as your truck is and it looks to be great condition. Welcome to Yotatech.
#12
Clean truck!
Like Arlindsay says above, Please do not join the legions of A$$holes who use improper lights that light up the heavens and blind others.
Conversion housings are cost effective and yield significant improvement over stock. HOWEVER, a resounding HOWEVER, more essential is to upgrade the wiring with an "H4 conversion harness" to correct the poor wiring that sends power through a "convoluted path" (ask 4Crawler) on thin wires, so some power is lost on the wire, instead of going to the bulb and subjects your dimmer-combo switch to high currents. using high-wattage (off-road) headlights will subject your dimmer switch to even higher current.
Like Arlindsay says above, Please do not join the legions of A$$holes who use improper lights that light up the heavens and blind others.
Conversion housings are cost effective and yield significant improvement over stock. HOWEVER, a resounding HOWEVER, more essential is to upgrade the wiring with an "H4 conversion harness" to correct the poor wiring that sends power through a "convoluted path" (ask 4Crawler) on thin wires, so some power is lost on the wire, instead of going to the bulb and subjects your dimmer-combo switch to high currents. using high-wattage (off-road) headlights will subject your dimmer switch to even higher current.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 04-19-2017 at 02:06 AM.
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They make projector retrofits that fit h4 housings. They run about 300 plus the h4 headlights. So total would be about 400.
basically you heat and separate the new lights and just fit the projectors in. Then you have a proper hid conversion
basically you heat and separate the new lights and just fit the projectors in. Then you have a proper hid conversion
#16
Nice score!
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Some interior shots. Dirty but nothing a good cleaning can't fix
New carpet going in this weekend.
Small knick in headliner.. Anyone got any suggestion on repairs for that?
New carpet going in this weekend.
Small knick in headliner.. Anyone got any suggestion on repairs for that?