Another 86 Toyota 22re rebuild...
#1
Another 86 Toyota 22re rebuild...
As I'm waiting for parts to come in for the build I decided to post up my rebuild process.. Rebuild it because I have a blown head gasket and just decided to do a full rebuild and good thing I did. Pull the engine stripped the block and Took the block to Jim at 22re performance to get bored .020, freeze plugs, rods cleaned with new bushings and a piston/ring set. Should have that back in a week or so... Went ahead and ordered a full gasket set from engnbldr.com, heard a lot of good things about engnbldr and for the price can't go wrong.. Still looking for a complete cylinder head not sure what one to go with but that's where I'm at with the rebuild any helpful info would be greatly appreciated hopefully these Pictures show up
#3
Registered User
I was in a similar situation not to long ago myself (actually two weeks ago). 1994 22RE blew the headgasket and decided it was overhaul time. Here is what I ended up doing.
I left my bottom end alone though, cause after 22 years I was still at factory compression and had tge factory hone still showing Yes, I baby my engine and change oil at 3k miles.
I had the OEM rockers relapped and the rocker shafts polished. I did order new rocker shaft springs and spacers. That was about $20 from Toyota No need for new ones, but you might as well while you are in there. I did end up ordering a new stock head and 268 cam from ENGNBLDR, and couldn't be happier. Just make sure that you go with the Toyota OEM headgasket. Cheap insurance if you ask me. You should be able to get it at the dealer for no more than $35. While you are there, make sure you order the odd ball stuff like the crush washers for the fuel lines, and gasket for the cold start injector, etc. I can give you the part numbers if you wish?
I left my bottom end alone though, cause after 22 years I was still at factory compression and had tge factory hone still showing Yes, I baby my engine and change oil at 3k miles.
I had the OEM rockers relapped and the rocker shafts polished. I did order new rocker shaft springs and spacers. That was about $20 from Toyota No need for new ones, but you might as well while you are in there. I did end up ordering a new stock head and 268 cam from ENGNBLDR, and couldn't be happier. Just make sure that you go with the Toyota OEM headgasket. Cheap insurance if you ask me. You should be able to get it at the dealer for no more than $35. While you are there, make sure you order the odd ball stuff like the crush washers for the fuel lines, and gasket for the cold start injector, etc. I can give you the part numbers if you wish?
#5
I was in a similar situation not to long ago myself (actually two weeks ago). 1994 22RE blew the headgasket and decided it was overhaul time. Here is what I ended up doing.
I left my bottom end alone though, cause after 22 years I was still at factory compression and had tge factory hone still showing Yes, I baby my engine and change oil at 3k miles.
I had the OEM rockers relapped and the rocker shafts polished. I did order new rocker shaft springs and spacers. That was about $20 from Toyota No need for new ones, but you might as well while you are in there. I did end up ordering a new stock head and 268 cam from ENGNBLDR, and couldn't be happier. Just make sure that you go with the Toyota OEM headgasket. Cheap insurance if you ask me. You should be able to get it at the dealer for no more than $35. While you are there, make sure you order the odd ball stuff like the crush washers for the fuel lines, and gasket for the cold start injector, etc. I can give you the part numbers if you wish?
I left my bottom end alone though, cause after 22 years I was still at factory compression and had tge factory hone still showing Yes, I baby my engine and change oil at 3k miles.
I had the OEM rockers relapped and the rocker shafts polished. I did order new rocker shaft springs and spacers. That was about $20 from Toyota No need for new ones, but you might as well while you are in there. I did end up ordering a new stock head and 268 cam from ENGNBLDR, and couldn't be happier. Just make sure that you go with the Toyota OEM headgasket. Cheap insurance if you ask me. You should be able to get it at the dealer for no more than $35. While you are there, make sure you order the odd ball stuff like the crush washers for the fuel lines, and gasket for the cold start injector, etc. I can give you the part numbers if you wish?
#6
Got my parts back from the machine shop finally! Now to get building
Hammered black valve cover
Block bored .020 over
Crankshaft ground .020 main .020 rod
Rods
Stainless steel freeze plugs
Crank in
Crank in
So I got the crank in but I have a problem.. It won't spin when bolts are fully torqued down. When only center cap is torqued it spins a little not smooth. Can anyone help me out?
Hammered black valve cover
Block bored .020 over
Crankshaft ground .020 main .020 rod
Rods
Stainless steel freeze plugs
Crank in
Crank in
So I got the crank in but I have a problem.. It won't spin when bolts are fully torqued down. When only center cap is torqued it spins a little not smooth. Can anyone help me out?
#7
Registered User
For starters, I'm pretty sure you got all the main caps installed backwards.
The point of the center boss on the main caps should point toward the crank snout, not to the backside of the engine.
The arrow on the main cap that carries the thrust washers should point to the front as well.
Plastigauge is your friend. put the caps right and check the clearances.
The point of the center boss on the main caps should point toward the crank snout, not to the backside of the engine.
The arrow on the main cap that carries the thrust washers should point to the front as well.
Plastigauge is your friend. put the caps right and check the clearances.
Last edited by millball; 08-04-2016 at 08:04 PM.
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#8
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: vancouver
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Hope this helps atleast oil strainer bolt locations.
Valve cover looks awesome, always been iffy bout the hammer tones but looks really good!
Valve cover looks awesome, always been iffy bout the hammer tones but looks really good!
Last edited by 4RunnerFreak12; 08-04-2016 at 09:18 PM. Reason: Better pic
#9
Ok I got it to spin just had the caps on backwards, also I haven't bought a head for it yet but I came across a 20r head for a good price , would a 20r head work on my 22re block?
#11
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That Valve cover looks great, Did you do that yourself? if so give us the name of the products. I also have always been a little iffy on the hammer paint and have never tried it, but yours looks great. Keep up the good work!
#12
So I'm on to the piston and rings now and I'm starting to think the guy sold me the wrong rings... Or do I just need to gap them?
When flush ring ends overlap
Cylinder #1
....
22Ret Pistons
New Pistons
When flush ring ends overlap
Cylinder #1
....
22Ret Pistons
New Pistons
#13
The valve cover I had done at 22re perfermance where I had my machine work done. I love it, it turned out great!
#14
Registered User
Clearly, the rings are wrong, meant for a larger over-bore than you have.
Is your truck currently equipped with turbocharger??
If not, the pistons may well wrong too, even if they fit the bores.
Their compression ratio may be incorrect. Turbo motors were bulit with lower compression ratios.
I am not sure whether the turbo motors lower the compression ratio in the combustion chambers (head), or with the pistons , or both.
You better find out what you've really got. Your block looks like it does have a turbo oil drain.
Is your truck currently equipped with turbocharger??
If not, the pistons may well wrong too, even if they fit the bores.
Their compression ratio may be incorrect. Turbo motors were bulit with lower compression ratios.
I am not sure whether the turbo motors lower the compression ratio in the combustion chambers (head), or with the pistons , or both.
You better find out what you've really got. Your block looks like it does have a turbo oil drain.
Last edited by millball; 08-12-2016 at 10:08 PM.
#15
Clearly, the rings are wrong, meant for a larger over-bore than you have.
Is your truck currently equipped with turbocharger??
If not, the pistons may well wrong too, even if they fit the bores.
Their compression ratio may be incorrect. Turbo motors were bulit with lower compression ratios.
I am not sure whether the turbo motors lower the compression ratio in the combustion chambers (head), or with the pistons , or both.
You better find out what you've really got. Your block looks like it does have a turbo oil drain.
Is your truck currently equipped with turbocharger??
If not, the pistons may well wrong too, even if they fit the bores.
Their compression ratio may be incorrect. Turbo motors were bulit with lower compression ratios.
I am not sure whether the turbo motors lower the compression ratio in the combustion chambers (head), or with the pistons , or both.
You better find out what you've really got. Your block looks like it does have a turbo oil drain.
#17
Registered User
If you're running an engine with turbo pistons and/or head without a turbocharger installed, its gonna make substantially less horsepower than a stock 22re does.
On the bright side, you will be able to burn anything that passes for fuel and never have to worry about any pre-ignition knock.
'85 to '95 22RE stock compression ratio is 9.4:1
22R-TE compression ratio is about 7.5:1 or a little less
A 22RE head has a combustion chamber of about 55cc (less if the head has been milled)
A 22R-TE head has a combustion chamber of about 81cc (less if head has been milled)
Putting a plain 22RE head on top of the turbo pistons can mitigate the compression loss some, but can never bring the compression up to what an ordinary 22RE has to begin with.
In conclusion, you're shooting yourself in the foot using turbo engine pistons, or a turbo head in your non-turbo application.
On the bright side, you will be able to burn anything that passes for fuel and never have to worry about any pre-ignition knock.
'85 to '95 22RE stock compression ratio is 9.4:1
22R-TE compression ratio is about 7.5:1 or a little less
A 22RE head has a combustion chamber of about 55cc (less if the head has been milled)
A 22R-TE head has a combustion chamber of about 81cc (less if head has been milled)
Putting a plain 22RE head on top of the turbo pistons can mitigate the compression loss some, but can never bring the compression up to what an ordinary 22RE has to begin with.
In conclusion, you're shooting yourself in the foot using turbo engine pistons, or a turbo head in your non-turbo application.
Last edited by millball; 08-14-2016 at 03:37 PM.
#19
Registered User
Are you sure that the FSM specs are not .35 to .57mm??
15 thousanths inch should be fine.
Just a quick YotaTech search finds a thread that confirms this:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...nd-gap-161533/
Now you're cookin!!
15 thousanths inch should be fine.
Just a quick YotaTech search finds a thread that confirms this:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...nd-gap-161533/
Now you're cookin!!