navyredneck

Today I started by installing the other side's motor mount (not recommended unless you have a 3" BL like me, easier to install once in vehicle because you can't lower the engine with them installed to access the top tranny bolts).

Then I installed the alternator and a/c pump (not working I might add). Then I finished hooking up some small stuff, made 3 or 4 more trips to get little things from the parts stores and stealership.



After that I installed the valve cover, added some oil and I was ready to install.



Shot before I put it into the truck



Rear of motor prior to installing



Lowering it into the truck



Once it was in the truck I couldn't get it onto the tranny. I even tried the screwdriver trick where you stick a screwdriver on either side through the bolt holes to line it up. That helped a lot, by the way. Then I made sure I had equal spacing on all sides. It really seemed as if the tranny had a spring in it that would push the engine back at me every time I pushed it in. Can you figure it out from the picture?



Here's a better view



The way the chain is hooked on the rear side of the hook was making the chain act like a spring. Once I lowered the engine oil pan onto a 4x4 piece of wood on my jack and moved the chain around the engine slid onto the tranny like butter. All I did was crawl underneath the two and pull them together!



Next I installed all the bolts and the motor mount bolts.

Then I installed the starter. Now here's a question that tells how engine dumb I really am. Is the starter always engaged? Because as I was bolting it on, I moved the crankshaft to help it engage correctly. I thought I was okay so I finished torqueing down the starter. As I was doing that I heard a loud pop. I really hope I didn't break a tooth off of my flywheel... Maybe someone smarter than me can tell me. After that I finished bolting on my starter.

Tomorrow I'll probably hook everything up. Hoping to roof my house on Friday and Saturday so I'm probably gonna have to tow the truck off of the driveway so the delivery truck can pull up onto the driveway to lift the shingles onto the truck.

navyredneck

Here's a post in the general discussion forum. Thought I'd try where there'd be more people.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...9#post50460809

Any help would be appreciated.

tampabayota

bring back memories good job it took me 6 months to do ours but i had to get a special turbo that took 3 months to get

navyredneck

I'm stupid, the hose plugs into the air cleaner. New problem, though...

The engine turns over and will start with the aid of carb starter and then dies. Oil pressure is good as well. I pulled the outlet hose on the fuel pump and it's not pumping when the starter is rotating the crankshaft. I'm thinking I reversed some hoses or something...

Update: I compared my hoses to my neighbors 22r 2wd truck and they all look identical. Now I'm really stumped...

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

navyredneck

Well the reason the truck wouldn't run is in this thread:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...1#post50464701

Basically I forgot to install the lobe thing that drives the mechanical fuel pump. I figured it out once I traced all the fuel lines and was able to pump fuel myself...


I did a seperate thread to try and get more help. As Wabbit and I have discussed, though, sometimes it just helps to sit down and type some stuff.

Anyway, the truck runs now. I got the coolant flowing with the upper radiator hose hot. No coolant or fuel leaks. Exhaust leaks in 2 locations: 1 on the manifold where I'm missing a bolt (couldn't find it -> probably rusted so bad I tossed it 3 weeks ago). Other location is a hose up by the brake booster cylinder. I just need to tighten that one. I'm gonna look for a bolt that will fit the manifold but I'm guessing that I may have to make another trip to the stealership. I'm probably gonna drive the truck around tonight a bit to see how the clutch holds up. Once I get a title tomorrow I should be able to put it on the road.

Tomorrow a buddy is coming to show me how to set the timing using the strobe light. He's also got a welder at his house to weld up the temporary sleeve I have connecting the exhaust manifold to the cat.

Already working on gathering all the fluids I need to change everything out. Next on my list is:

Replace f/r differential fluid
Replace manual transmission fluid
Change oil out at 100 miles and then again at 500 miles (doing the 100 because I'm not confident in my ability to keep the engine clean during my long build session)
Install new 3" body lift kit to replace the one that looks so bad now. Getting new body mounts since the old ones are in really bad shape.

Get SR5 instrument cluster to swap my current one. Any idea on whether the cluster changes from 22r to 22re?
Herculine bed on outside
Remove bed and paint/undercoat to prevent rust
Clean up and paint frame while bed is off
Herculine inside of cab after I rip out the cheapo vinyl in there now

I think the front axle is in pretty rough shape. I'll post pictures of all the junk on the insides. Thinking of ordering a 3" classic lift kit from TG from Wabbit. I wouldn't do the lift until I had chevvies ready for the rear but I could at least go ahead and redo the axle and install axle armor and stuff. Eventually I want the hi-steer when I'm ready to install power steering.

YotaJunky

Awesome thread for the 22R.

Thanks for sharing your pics and the write up. Any battle scars?

Troy

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

That engine sure is purty!

Been tearing apart my own perfectly good front axle all weekend to make it bomb proof...ain't wrenching great...that smell of grease and oil ground into your skin so no matter how much you wash it is there for a while...sore arms...shop looks like a tornado hit it...any of this ring a bell?

tampabayota

re tourque the head? lash the valves?

navyredneck

By lash the valves you mean valve adjustments, right? I don't know how to do that but I was planning on learning by the 500 mile mark.

navyredneck

Well, once my wife came home tonight (and was standing by to tow me back with the 4runner) I took the truck for my first ride in it (minus hood, grill, rear bumper, and license plate and plus exhaust leak, loud rattle from the exhaust sleeve that needs to be welded, and many other miscellaneous rattles).

It rides like a 2 horse wagon. The springs are definitely shot. The engine has plenty of power, though. I thought the distance req'd to shift gears was much longer than my last stick shift (back in 97 I had a 94 Ford Probe).

It drove good, though. I only killed it twice and the clutch seemed as good as new. Definitely need to get the timing done, though, and I need to find one last exhaust stud to get the manifold on there tight and stop that exhaust leak. Everytime I braked to a stop at a stop sign and started back up, the fumes would flare up something incredible.

May end up getting the carb professionally adjusted by my friend who owns a shop. Based on how long it sat in the PO's driveway I bet the carb could use a good adjustment. I really need this thing running good since I'm making it my DD soon.

whitetaco02

hey man, i may have an extra exhaust stud laying around from where i got my headers. i am sure it would fit your set up. PM me if you are interested and I will look and see if i could find them. when they installed my headers, they took the studs out that came out easily and replaced them with the new ones. the ones that were difficult to get out we left in there. i know i have like 3 or 4 left i just have to find them. let me know.

navyredneck

Well, I found a bolt of the correct size and tried to use it on that lost hole for the manifold. I got it down to 25 ft-lbs (FSM says 33) and it stripped. Torque dropped off to nothing. Now I'm in a real fix and don't know what to do. The exhaust has not been rewelded back in so I can remove that. The question is how to get a drill in there to drill it out and install a helicoil (something I've never done). I'm thinking:

pull the fender (dunno how to do that)
pull the engine

A friend suggested I drive it like that but I really hate to drive around with something broke. Particularly because that will force me to reweld the exhaust back to the cat which will make this job much harder to do in the future.

It runs and doesen't make that many fumes but I think this will get worse as it will probably burn up the gasket in that area. Opinions or suggestions?

(photobucket not currently loading up so no pictures)

good thread here that describes similar situation:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...t+exhaust+head
I think it's talking about the exact same bolt in fact.

I'd like to install the helicoil but not sure how to get a drill in there. Anyone have experience pulling a fender?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Right angle drill may work, or use a larger size bolt, for 10mm, a 7/16" bolt works well, run a bottoming tap into the hole to make threads. Or you may be able to get a longer metric bolt to grab some threads deeper in the hole.

navyredneck

My garage hasn't come clean yet but this will help:



I dropped it off today!

As soon as I decide what to do about this manifold bolt I can get rid of the engine hoist.

Pic of the bolt:

navyredneck

Working on a bumper. Thread is here:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f88/simple-cheap-heavy-duty-bumper-idea-110331/

Started tearing down my Warn Winch today. It's an old MX6085 that they stopped making in the 80's.

Rolled off all the old cable. Getting new synthetic rope from Rockstomper in the near future:


Took off safety bolts and the gears look good (nice surprise). This means I probably won't mess with them.


Putting gloves over the ends to keep debris out of the spool:


This looks like a weld repair which doesen't make sense to me? Any ideas?


Everything stripped and ready to paint. Using ceramic paint on the bars and Rustoleum on the spool. I tried to drill through some ceramic paint Friday night that had been baked on. I destroyed 2 drill bits in the process.


Primed:


Done for the night:

navyredneck

Finished painting the winch today. Based on the internals that I saw I'm not gonna do anything but paint and clean. Here's the final picture before I put synthetic line on it (ordering that tomorrow from rockstomper.com). I only painted the parts that were really rusted. The gear end didn't have much rust and had some nice stickers on it so I left it as is.

Oh, I did uncover a label plate which I did not repaint:
MRV-B-7
N16543
build date of 11-85 (this thing is as old as the truck!)



FIY for any engine gurus, I got word from Oregon Engine Rebuilders that my core had an early 22r head on it. Something about the head was designed to be used with domed pistons. By using the early 80's head with the 1985 block the compression ratio ended up being 7:1 instead of the 9:1 or so. John seemed surprised that it even ran with it like that. He said to call back on Monday and he could tell me how bad the crankshaft bearings were (where I think I had the rod knock coming from).

navyredneck

Rockstomper:

I sent an email to Scott with a picture and dimensions of the spool on my winch. He replied that I could fit 5/16x80 or 1/4x125 of rope. I'd rather have the 9,200 lb rope since more than that will probably pull my truck apart. I'd rather have the rope give than the winch or truck.



So today I ordered 1/4x125' of rope, a small treesaver, and 2 shackles for the custom rear bumper I hope to start soon.

govt.mule:

Mike has a yard full of yotas somewhere and is sending me a box of goodies. Getting a rear window motor and regulator for my 94 4runner and power steering and ifs box for the pickup plus an ac hose that the pickup is missing.

My mechanic friend here tells me that if I get the hoses connected and buy a new accumulator from Autozone that he thinks he can get the ac unit running on R-134. I don't care if its R-134 or R-134a as long as the ac puts out some cool air. The summers here are hot and I drive 45 mins one way a day during the week.

Oh, and update on the truck. The same mechanic friend above found a helicoil already in the head. He removed that and installed a bigger stud. Currently getting the new cat welded in to finish the exhaust. I'm excited that I should be driving the truck tomorrow to work and hopefully to turkey hunting on Saturday!

tampabayota

were still on for the 31st right!!

navyredneck

Yep, I will PM add'l info a day or two before.