gmack192

Yup... But the parts store did warranty the alternator and replaced the battery too... I got it running again, going to work on the carb this evening.. then the snorkel...

gmack192

While waiting for the jets and power valve block off, I started on the snorkel/ airbox.





I forgot to take a pic of the hole when it was finished.. I put door edge guard around it for a more finished look.
When everything is done the box will only stick out about 3/4 of an inch further than the snorkel did.
Hopefully I can get everything back together this weekend (Monday & Tuesday)

gmack192

I got the carb back on today and finished up the snorkel... I still have to adjust the carb.. I dropped the jets from .73 to .40 so hopefully it will quit loading up.

I am also having an issue with oil blowing out the vent tube when I get it over 5000rpms... Any ideas??? I have 70-85 psi oil pressure in the 4-5000rpm range.

The snorkel set up:



Opinions welcomed..

gmack192

Well all the work I have done it the past few days has been in vain... It is puking oil every where....Not sure whether to try fixing this engine AGAIN or getting a long block already built.. LCE is a BIT pricey but sure is SWEET...

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

That's awful! I really like the LCE Pro Long Block.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

LCE is great if you have the dime to drop. But there are a bunch of places that sell reman engines. Powertrain Products is located here in Maryland and I've heard great things about most of the engines they sell, but not specifically about 22R engines. Here's a link for a $1,899 22R long block:

http://www.powertrainproducts.net/TO...FY6i4AoduD0AaQ

Honestly, if you sling a wrench well (which it sounds like you do), a complete rebuild is the most economical and you can do it to your liking in terms of performance. My rebuild thread runs through everything I did and I can give you my list of parts and vendors to make it cheap for you.

gmack192

I built this engine about 4 years ago...It was a good engine, til I let my son use (abuse) the truck.. While he had it he blew a freeze plug (it was COLD) and warped the head. I fixed that, the he blew a timing chain, fixed that too..

When I built it, I put in a new crank, rods and 0.40 pistons...

My problem is, I am TIRED of working on it.... I wanna PLAY....

gmack192

Found a 85 Buick 231 V-6 with an MSD distributor and Elderbrock intake, 80,000 miles.
I do have a brand new Holley carb...
I am still undecided as to which way to go.....

Any suggestions??

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

the 231 V6 was a very popular conversion for years. Seems like a good route to go if you don't have to worry about inspections or emissions

gmack192

Fortunately I don't have to worry about inspections here..
I just have to weigh the cost of the conversion verses rebuilding the 22R again. I can get the 231 pretty cheap, but the added cost and time to do the conversion makes the decision difficult....

Sometimes I hate trying to make up my mind.......

gmack192

Well I started at 8:30 this evening and by midnight I had it down to the bare block..


An hour and half later..


And a little while later, the culprit.......Cylinders #1, #2 and #4. the top ring only.. Machine shop said if it ever got hot, it will cause the rings to collapse and break up... I believe it did when my son had the freeze plug blow out..


Gonna have the head resurfaced, the crank polished ( the bearings look real good) and order the parts Monday..

I talked to the guy that has the 231 today, I may still get it and put it in the corner for a while....

gmack192

Well it has been decided that my block is TOAST...Any recommendations on a good long block?? Reasonably priced???? If there is such a thing.

gmack192

Well I bit the bullet and bought a NEW (not rebuilt) 22R from Japanengines.com $1750 shipped.. and no core.. Which is good, cause my block is SHOT.. But I will keep the head, crank and 0.40 pistons, JUST IN CASE....

The more I thought about doing a swap, the more I wanted to keep it TOYOTA..

gmack192

Started getting the truck ready for the new engine..


Cleaned and painted..sorry for the crappy pics..


Today I painted all the black, the bumpers, rock sliders and rear fenders.
I also got everything taped off and ready to paint the green..That will be this weekend..Time to go back to work for a few days and get some rest.

gmack192

Getting closer to paint...


And I gotta a surprise this afternoon.. I ordered the headers on the 6th and they were at the door today....Summit Racing = AWESOME customer service...

gmack192

Ordered the cage....4xinnovations.com.. Slowly but surely I am going to get this truck the way "I WANT IT.....

gmack192

Got a little bit done today.....

Cleaning (that was the other day)


painted the oil pan and valve cover Rustoleum Hammered Silver



Then I taped everything off...


And shot the truck.. Rustoleum Satin Spruce Green..again..



and the hood....
.

Tomorrow I am going to finish up the engine bay

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

I still find it amazing how well rustoleum lays down! How many cans did it all take?

I'm not sure how well that hammered paint holds up, but just to let you know, I painted my valve cover with Duplicolor high temp engine enamel and then cleared it with Duplicolor high temp clear. I orginally wanted to clear it because I went back and did brushed aluminum raised lettering and didn't want it to get grimey. After all was said and done, that clear coat is tough as nails!! I would recommend it if you're looking for durability.

gmack192

I have used the hammered before and it does hold up pretty good.. I used the hammered on the wheels and they still look as good as the day I mounted them..

I had a Sammy I used to race, I painted it the hammered green years ago..Wanted to paint this truck with it, but can't find that color for some reason.

I used 5 cans 3 good coats.. This was a re-spray.. when I painted it the first time, I used 8 cans. but I also painted the doors and inside of the truck..

yotantn

gmack..
the Yotaologist.

You tha man!