Wheel studs too short?
04-02-2023, 01:00 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Wheel studs too short?
Quick background on the setup, 81 solid axle, IFS hubs, 00-06 Tundra brake swap, 17" method 105 beadlock wheels, 37x12.5 tires
Just installed the brake swap and, because of the Tundra rotors being "slip on" outside the hub, the rotor hat thickness takes some of the available wheel stud length. The lug nuts are the style where there's some extra thread below the bottom of the cone taper. Even so the 1st thread of the lug nut is ~5/32" from the wheel mount surface when seated.
End of story is that when the wheel is mounted, I only have ~19/32" of engaged threads.
What do we think? Is it fine/plenty? Is there a longer wheel stud option?
Thanks for the input!!
Just installed the brake swap and, because of the Tundra rotors being "slip on" outside the hub, the rotor hat thickness takes some of the available wheel stud length. The lug nuts are the style where there's some extra thread below the bottom of the cone taper. Even so the 1st thread of the lug nut is ~5/32" from the wheel mount surface when seated.
End of story is that when the wheel is mounted, I only have ~19/32" of engaged threads.
What do we think? Is it fine/plenty? Is there a longer wheel stud option?
Thanks for the input!!
04-03-2023, 06:25 AM
#2
Registered User
Yeah man..from my build thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52157325
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52157325
Had a heck of a time finding longer wheel studs. Didnt want to drop the $$ for ARPs and they dont "just make longer studs". So this is what I found:
Dorman Part #98458 is the stock front stud is a .559" Knurl and a .3149 shoulder depth. Length of 40 mm.
Part # 610-312 is a stock rear stud, with a knurl diameter of .5578" and shoulder depth of .4921. 44.5mm long
But after digging through the Dorman parts book, I found one!
Part # 610-463. Rear stud off of a Awd Toyota Matrix. Same .559 knurl but a shoulder depth just over an inch, it makes the whole stud 55mm.
Stock on the left, stock rear in the middle, and martix on the right.
Attachment 144137
Same with the Taco rotor on.
Attachment 144138
And in the rim
Attachment 144139
I can get about 6 turns onto a stock one, and about 8-9 on to the stock rear. this bolt is .75" long and I have thread for days.
Attachment 144140
Probably could have gotten away with using the rear studs, but I wanted to be sure.
With that out of the way I put the front axle together.
Attachment 144141
Still need to work the break shims to get the rotor to line up with the caliper. but still..
Attachment 144142
Run down of the axle: 85 Axle with all the TG armor. Marlin axle rebuild with Koyo wheel bearings and Youkon trunion bearings. Ifs hubs ground down with martix wheel studs running 97 Tacoma rotors. Stock 92 v6 break caliper moved to the other side of the knuckle ears and drilled out for 1/2" bolt. 5th stud. 4.10 diff with lunchbox locker and 30 spline longs with TG creeper flanges.
Dorman Part #98458 is the stock front stud is a .559" Knurl and a .3149 shoulder depth. Length of 40 mm.
Part # 610-312 is a stock rear stud, with a knurl diameter of .5578" and shoulder depth of .4921. 44.5mm long
But after digging through the Dorman parts book, I found one!
Part # 610-463. Rear stud off of a Awd Toyota Matrix. Same .559 knurl but a shoulder depth just over an inch, it makes the whole stud 55mm.
Stock on the left, stock rear in the middle, and martix on the right.
Attachment 144137
Same with the Taco rotor on.
Attachment 144138
And in the rim
Attachment 144139
I can get about 6 turns onto a stock one, and about 8-9 on to the stock rear. this bolt is .75" long and I have thread for days.
Attachment 144140
Probably could have gotten away with using the rear studs, but I wanted to be sure.
With that out of the way I put the front axle together.
Attachment 144141
Still need to work the break shims to get the rotor to line up with the caliper. but still..
Attachment 144142
Run down of the axle: 85 Axle with all the TG armor. Marlin axle rebuild with Koyo wheel bearings and Youkon trunion bearings. Ifs hubs ground down with martix wheel studs running 97 Tacoma rotors. Stock 92 v6 break caliper moved to the other side of the knuckle ears and drilled out for 1/2" bolt. 5th stud. 4.10 diff with lunchbox locker and 30 spline longs with TG creeper flanges.
04-03-2023, 10:34 AM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks you so much!!
I knew someone had a "fix" for this, but after many threads you forget where you saw the answer.
I could PROBABLY get away with what I have, but it seems sketchy.
I knew someone had a "fix" for this, but after many threads you forget where you saw the answer.
I could PROBABLY get away with what I have, but it seems sketchy.
04-07-2023, 08:12 AM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Got the Toyota Matrix rear studs and they are exactly what I needed. Well, mostly.
For my setup there's ~3/32" too much shoulder, I bottom out the "Extra Thread" style lug nuts before the wheel is tight.
Not a big deal though, standard lug nuts work perfect. Tons of thread engagement.
Added bonus that the rotors are now on full thickness shoulder part of the stud instead of thread.
Thanks again RW!
For my setup there's ~3/32" too much shoulder, I bottom out the "Extra Thread" style lug nuts before the wheel is tight.
Not a big deal though, standard lug nuts work perfect. Tons of thread engagement.
Added bonus that the rotors are now on full thickness shoulder part of the stud instead of thread.
Thanks again RW!
04-07-2023, 03:52 PM
#5
Registered User
Your local parts store should have a 1/4" slip on wheel spacer that may help take up the rest of that slack.
I had to run one when I went to a steel wheel so the wheel would clear my caliper.
I had to run one when I went to a steel wheel so the wheel would clear my caliper.
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