BigFishAllDay

Right on. My main concern when I called the seller was whether or not the supercharger had sustained any damage. I was going to buy it just for the S/C, then part out what I could to make a buck, then scrap it. Judging from your pics, the truck was in worse shape than I imagined based on the c-list pics.

When I called the guy, it was a day or so before you picked it up. He said I could drive up and check it out, but when I called to do that (either the next day or day after), you had already paid and trailered it away. I knew it would go fast at that price, so congrats to you on moving fastest.

Anyway, I'm down here in Albuquerque. If you're ever down here for some wheeling, send me a PM. Great work on the swap/rebuild/install!!!

Pistol_Pete

Following because i am considering this swap.....BUT my bigger inquiry is about the little white car next to the red one.....?...'69 mach?

93NMyota

iTrader: (1)

Actually it's a 1970 Mach! :-) but sorry it's not for sale, I would definitely do the swap, I've got about 700 trouble free miles on this swap. Much more power and torque I don't even have to try with this engine on a grade vs downshifting and having the 3.slo floored all the time. Best of all I get about 3 mpg better overall! It's not a big deal to do ive done much more difficult swaps plus there is so much great help and knowledgeable members on here so you have nothing to worry about. I have an entire running donor vehicle if you are interested!

northern 3.4

That was really cool running in to you today I drive that road maybe 5 times a year. Your rig was very inspiring being that you are basically finished with your swap and im just barley starting mine. You've got a sweat rig you should be proud of a job well done.

93NMyota

iTrader: (1)

Its nice to meet someone on here local, I had others come pick up parts too, just makes this seem more like a community if that makes sense lol Thanks for the compliments, Im sure you'll get yours done just as quick and all I needed was a little inspiration/motivation and it got done fairly quickly. Again feel free to message me or call and you can bring the harnesses to my shop if you have any questions

93NMyota

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys a little update, I now have about 3000 miles on it and it runs just great! I have one little concern that has been bothering me and i can't seem to get it right, maybe someone has dealt with it or can help;
About 50% of the time it has a rough time starting. Not really bad Its kinda hard to describe i can maybe post a video if needed. I do NOT have to try starting a few times or crank it for more than 5 seconds its just not consistent like the old engine used to be or other buddys 5vz start. Its been this way since i got it running and I'm just being picky bout it but i want it to be perfect lol. It always starts and always runs perfect just sometimes has to crank longer than it should, I don't know if its due to the timing calibration on the URD (which is at 0) or a faulty ignitor or something, no check engine codes or anything, any have any ideas? Thanks again guys!

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Did you do anything to the STA terminal of the ECU? I'm not entirely sure what roll that plays, but seems relevant.

93NMyota

iTrader: (1)

Yessir, i havent checked that yet but seems like a good idea! I put starter signal input on this wire, that's what it calls for, I can actually test it while cranking where it goes into the ecu when I get home. Thanks

93NMyota

iTrader: (1)

Ok got the starting issue taken care of, i copied the way the urd was wired into the harness by the previous owner and it was on the wrong ignition wire, just figured it out when i printed out the instructions and inspected it, changed it, and there it was!

So I have a new issue I cannot seem to get resolved. When i am about 3/4 to full throttle it feels like something is holding it back. The swap now has about 4500 miles on it and it just started acting up and pulling the following codes:

p0100 --> mass air flow circuit malfunction
p0141 --> Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (bank 1 Sensor2)

I have the Toyota service manual for my a 2000 the year of my donor and follow all the diagnostics, ohm tested the wires, everything tested good. replaced the MAF and the ecu, for the po100 and still pulling the p0100.
As far as the p0141 I tested per the book and it tested fine, there are (2) DTC detecting conditions;
1) When heater operates, heater current exceeds 2.35 A
2) Heater current of 0.2 A or less when heater operates
I did the o2 simulator resistor and capacitor mod that is supposed to take care of the p0420 on this circuit and still have not seen that code but if its not drawing any power could it cause the po141? If so why would it just pop up now? Any relation to the p0100?

Could the URD FTC be bad? I know it could cause the p0100, I also replaced the front o2 (a/f ratio) sensor just for an extra though although there were no codes on that. Thoughts? thanks guys

93NMyota

iTrader: (1)

Delete

93NMyota

iTrader: (1)

Just a little update, it's now my DD it's been about a year and about 20,000 miles, been super reliable. Here is a little video in about 12-18" of snow!

[IMG][/IMG]

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...A61D6E4992.mp4

:wabbit2:

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Love the super whine! Unwatchable video quality however.

93NMyota

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for setting it up properly!

Victor, ya a buddy shot the video with a crappy cellphone from a distance but you can hear it lol