GJCruiser

My swap has commenced. After searching for 6 months, I've finally found a donor. It's a 1999 4Runner SR5 5 speed. It was a one owner with 109,000 miles. It was hit in the front passenger corner hard enough to break the airbox and the power steering pulley. The radiator was wrapped around the fan so I cut the fan belt to start it. I "lot drove" it on to and off of the trailer. It has good oil pressure, good compression, and it sounds sooo nice!

GJCruiser

Sorry for the series of posts but I got tired wasting time typing this story out just to have it the system time out or something. I would select "post" nad be told I have to log in when I already am.

Anyway, I've never driven my 93. I bought it with the blown 3.0. It's very clean, the exterior has a few scratches, and the interior is a "10". It'll be my daily driver and mini expedition rig as I have a small popup camper. I'll delete the ADD but keep the ABS.

The 3.0 is out and the engine bay pretty well cleaned up. the motor was a bathtub. Along with the oil, the crankcase yielded the full compliment of antifreeze when I removed the drainplug from the pan.

GJCruiser

Really frustrating. What's $^%%^&*(going on? My fourth attempt. Oh well I'll post pictures when I figure out how.

My goal is to complete the swap with as much 3.4 look and function as practical. That brings me to 3 questions.

The 3.0 cruise sat on the driver's side fender along with it's harness. If I use the 3.4 cruise, where does it's wiring get spliced into the body and what happens to the original 3.0 cruise harness?

There's a part of the 3.0 harness that goes back to the trans/tc. Does that get replaced by the 3.4 harness or should I leave what's there in?

What are thoughts regarding leaving and using 3.0 fuse/relay box vs. using and moving to the driver's side the 3.4 box?

Thanks,

Gerry

gilby4runner

Use photobucket for your picutre hosting. Good luck with your swap!

GJCruiser

Thanks. I'll need the luck as well. Is Photobucket an application? Web-based? Thanks

yodathespian87

As for your questions. The first 2 I don't know for sure cause I never took those from the 3.4 so I'm using my 3.0 stuff. Which that includes the fuse which was your 3rd question. Best of luck to you.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

use the 3.0 stuff for the cc, but i belive you need to swap the cables over for proper length. Leave the 3.0 fuse box alone. As for tranny wires.. you have a couple choices, cut yours out from the 3.0 harness and splice them into the 3.4 harness. Or cut the connectors and just splice them onto the 3.4 harness.. it just depends how you're gonna do your wiring at the body harness.

GJCruiser

Just an update as to my progress. I only get time to work on this swap on weekends so I have been busy. I have the 3.0 out of the chassis and cleaned up.

I also have the 3.4 out of the donor. All I can say is "Holy 55-gallon drum muffler, Batman!" Seroiuslythat thing is huge. I also see why people want to remove IFS (although I'm not) as it's really crowded there.

The donor was hit in the right front corner and I could see that the PS pulley was broken. (anyone have one?). I also discovered that the A/C compressor clutch and housing was broken (I was able to find a replacement).

My hope is to get the engine to the exhaust shop this week to have the crossover rebuilt. Also planned are timing belt, water pump, etc.

Before I put motor in I need to fab battery tray and start mounting things like EVAP box.

I removed all sensors from trans and t/c. A question I haven't seen here yet--Do I have to incorporate the 3.4 speed sensor? What does the ECU know/care if it doesn't get that signal?

Also, I'm not sure what the job is before me with the PS high pressure side. Do I have to have a line made putting the 3.4 pump end onto the 3.0 baox end?

Thanks

dntsdad

LOL that muffler is damn huge!!

most guys keep the stock 3.4 sensor and wire it to their 3.0 speedo and it seems to work fine. I opted to change my "guts" in my speedo. Check out my thread if you are interested. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...ex-cab-196823/

I think that easiest thing to do on the power steering line is steal Cadman's idea (or whoever he stole it from if he did)
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...splant-143516/

Take the 3.0 stock hose and install in into the box. Take the 3.4 hose at the pump and install it find a good place for them to meet under the radiator, cut them, sleeve them with a piece of tubing from Lowes and weld it up. Thats what i did and my first attempt leaked like crazy so i had to redo it cause i am a crappy welder. The second time I paid a bit more attention to it and everything seems good. I am a terrible welder and am using flux core wire and it sealed it fine.

yodathespian87

What part of western Colorado are you. Check Craigslist. There were a few parts vehicles on there

GJCruiser

dntsdad, thanks for that link. I think I understand what to do for PS now. Did you reuse various 3.4 sensors in the 3.0 transmission and transfer case? Do they interchange mechanically? I would assume if that's the case then I could use everything 3.4 all the way from speed sensor to speedometer. I'll go back and reread your post.

I'm in Grand Junction and 3.4s were very hard to find here with manuals being unobtainium. After an entire summer trying to piece together everything, I gave up and bought a donor vehicle at an auction in Denver.

dntsdad

i am using the 3.4 340F tranny for now so i cant answer your question.


I have friends in Grand Junction and spent that last two new years there. Damn, i'll et its cold there!!

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

i used all the 3.0 sensors in the tranny

GJCruiser

Checking that I'm doing the pan swap correct. I get using the 3.0 pan, baffle, and pick up on the 3.4 block. The hile are there in the 3.4 to attach the bolts for the pick up tube supports. The 3.4 supports were nutted onto studs are are now empty.

Do I just leave the threaded studs there of try to remove them. The 3.0 baffle does go down tight over them.

My donor is a 99 so not only is the block drilled for the 3.0 dipstick tube, but what I think is the tube union is also there. Obviously,there's no hole in it. I thought I read where theres a plug in it. I can't see it. Do I drive the plug out from top or pan side? I assumed I could just hit it but nothing! I thought of using the union off the 3.0 but I'm not sure how to remove it either without damaging it.

Any ideas?

Thanks

dntsdad

Hopefully some one chimes in cause I have read and reread your post and I cant picture what you are talking about regarding the pan.

You motor has the plug in the center? I used a long 1/4 drive extension to drive mine out. take the union from the 3.0 and put it in the 3.4. I used a bit of sealant around it.

I have pictures of both processes that you are doing in my thread. Check that out and see if it helps. Page 2

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...ex-cab-196823/

GJCruiser

I'll try the 1/4' extension on the dipstick union. The 3.4 baffle secures inside of the pan bolts by nuts onto threaded studs on the block. This baffle is removed by removing those nuts and pulling off the baffle. That leaves some threaded studs that are now unused when the 3.0 baffle goes back on because the 3.0 baffle is "sandwiched" between the block and oil pan. I was just wondering if those studs should be removed by turning out or cuting off. They do not interfere with the 3.0 baffle.

GJCruiser

Doh! I was searching for the right "something" to knock that union up and out, I don't know why I didn't try the 1/4" extension. Just went out to the garage and give it ine whack. Out she is. Thanks for that suggestion!

dntsdad

I cant remember what I did with those studs. I would leave them if they are not in the way.

Glad the 1/4 extension worked.

GJCruiser

Made good progress this week. I discovered that Toyota had replaced the timing belt, water pump, and tensioners 8,000 miles ago. That was a piece of luck!

I trailered the truck to the exhaust shop this week. The owner there wanted the motor set in place for a guide. He used all my 3.4 Runner parts to build a new exhaust. He flipped the crossover, set the cat in place under the 3.0 cat heat shield, and hung the muffler. The only new part was the tailpipe as the 3.0 was 1 3/4 and the 3.4 is 2 1/4. The exhaust is as close to stock as on the 4Runner as possible. I'm really happy with it.

Used a 1/4-20 tap and plug for the old dipstick tube hole. Set the 3.0 dipstick tube in the mid-block location. I'll have to fashion some sort of brace for the top but it routes nicely up through the motor mount. Flipped the fuel pressure line 180 and got a lot of things hooked up today(A/C lines, fuel lines, clutch line). It look like the alternator lower bracket is very close to the steering shaft.

Two concerns I have as I finished the day. The harness runs down the driver's side to the trans and t/c. The crossover now exits there as well so I'm not sure how to run the harness without studying that more.

The cruise control also has me puzzled at the moment. My original cc was on the driver's side. The 3.4 evap box now resides there and the cc-to-intake cable is was short. I'm considering two options.

1) move the 3.0 cc to the passenger side and extend the cables either inside or outside across the firewall, or

2) use the 3.4 cc and re-wire it. The cc wiring on the 3.4 is in the non-engine harness under the hood so I'm not sure how much work that would be. I won't subscribe to TIS until Monday-I hope that will help determine how to rewire the cruise.

Soon this job will be that of wiring and debugging.

Thanks

GJCruiser

Sorry-I need to edit/clarify previous post. The cruise control can't reside in it's original location because the 3.4 evap box now resides there. There are three electrical control cables for the cruise control which enter the engine bay near the clutch master cylinder. What I meant to say is that due to engine differences, the mechanical cable is too short for any placement of the cruise unit on the driver's side. I think cruise on passenger side is the way to go. The 3.4 is there anyway but I'd have to bring the proper signals from my chassis over to the passenger's side and then splice in the 3.4 plug. If I keep the 3.0 cruise but move it over, I would only have to extend those control cables from the driver's to passenger's side.

Final thought for the night, I wonder how far to take the rewire issue as I have the donor vehicle. Could I take more of the harness from under the dash of is that asking for too much work? Hopefully, TIS will provide the info I need.