true_blue_hickbilly

I've decieded to swap my 3,0 v6 in my 93 toyota ext. cab 4x4 for a 289 ford. After looking around for information about how and what to look out for I haven't found very much. So I figured I'd document what problems I run into hopefully helping someone else out in the future.
Info on swap:
289 ford smallblock out of a 66 ford fairlane
External parts off of 85 ford 302 (pullys, power stearing, altenator, brackets, ect)
Using NWOR bellhousing adapter
Toyota R151F trans and the rest of my standard drive train

true_blue_hickbilly

Ok lets start at the beginning, my 3.0 has been a very reliable motor for 247,000 miles. But since I bought the truck 12 years ago I have never been impressed with the power of the lacking 3.0. Also while doing maintence on the motor I attemped to change the spark plugs and broke the #5 spark plug off in the head (actually a friend did, but who's gonna blame who on such a deal). With only having 45# compression in #6 cylender it was a easy decision that a change is well do. I searched the internet for conversion kits a quickly ran into several companys offering a bell housing adapter kit for my truck of course they were all for the small block chevy. My brother had just retired his 79 ford pickup in which he had the 289 in it.Great running engine but decieded that he was going to build a mud truck out of the cab and is plannin on using a 460 big block to power his ride. So thats how it all came to be. Currently I have removed the 3.0 and have installed the NWOR bellhousing adapter. Unforcantly I have ran into much more difficulty installing the small block than was discussed with NWOR hince here I am to let you all know what to look out and plan for if you decied to do such a swap.

true_blue_hickbilly

I got my drive train moved back. To do this I had to remove my shifter boot and cut 3.5" from behind my transfer case shifter, remove my crossmember, carrier bearing, and drop my back drive shaft. I left the frount one in and let it travel on the slip joint. After getting my drive train moved back till the bellhousing is almost touching my firewall I then had to modify my crossmember to fit. I still have to cut down the front half of my drive shaft to allow for pinion travel. I then remounted it. When I bought the kit I asked what kind of modifications I was going to need to do and I was assured that I wouldn't have to move my crossmember or modify my drive shaft. So I called NWOR back today and asked if I recieved the correct bellhousing or if maybe I have done something incorrectly. After a 15 min conversation I was asked what kind of lift do I have on my truck. "None". "Oh well, you are going to have to install a 3" suspension lift and a 3" body lift." Um, no I told this very same guy before I purchased this bellhousing kit that I didn't want to make a crawler or a mud truck. I just wanted a daily driver because doing this swap was going to be cheaper than replacing my 3.0 with another 3.0. He told me that I had to have is lift to make everything fit correctly. So disipointed I just kept plugging away. I stabbed my motor and connected it to the bellhousing. (leaving off the cluch, flywheel, and presure plate) I had installed a double sump pan. Imediatley I see a big problem. I only have 2.5" of room between the nose of my water pump and my A/C condenser. Seeing that my new 4 row radiator is about 3.5" thick we have a problem here. So I slid the bellhousing back as far as possible. Granted my double sump pan hasn't been modified yet and after modifications I will be able to lower the motor another 2.5" to 3". So I ordered a new raditor from the local NAPA store. A 1 1/4" thick 1 row radiator. Made for a replacement radiator. Got the radiator today "PERFECT" I had to modify the mounting bracket to mount flush with the back of the core but is 1.25" thick and will give me a lil more than a half inch of room. Oh yeah, yesterday when I noticed the problem with the clearance issue I contacted NWOR again. I was told that I had to get a special timing cover set and short nosed water pump along with all new brackets and pulleys. (At this point not really very happy with this news). I was told to contact JEGS and all of the parts can be purchased from there. So when I got off the phone I did contact JEGS and was told that they do offer the short nosed water pump but no pulleys are available for it. I guess it is parts directly from Ford Motorsports and they are not offering the pulleys or the shorty timeing cover any longer. So thats when I found the radiator deal to make the standard water pump and cover work. (In theory anyway). I did modify my core support slighly to all the top of the radiator not to rub on any steel. As soon as I figure out how to get pictures on here I will show all modifications and tweaks it is taking. So tomorrow I hope to stab the motor for the final time. and start working on the wiring.

true_blue_hickbilly

true_blue_hickbilly

true_blue_hickbilly

true_blue_hickbilly

true_blue_hickbilly

true_blue_hickbilly

true_blue_hickbilly

Haven't been around for a while, but remembered I needed to update my post here. The 289 is in. I need to take some final pictures to show what all modifications I had to make in doing this and make a list of parts for you guys interested in doing this. Truck does run very good, not a race truck or anything but very very snappy. I was under the assumption since my truck had the 3.0 to begin with that I would have a taller set of gears. Well that isn't the case, did have it in the mud going fishin last weekend and I have to say it is very impressive. I'll try to get pictures downloaded sometime this week for those that are interested.

94toyota

ford parts + toyota = ruined toyota

88toyblackjack

I'm considering a 5.0 with and AOD swap. What tranny/transfer case did you use?
D

88toyblackjack

Whoops, I found it at the beginning!!