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81 toyota axle to a dana 60...anyone?

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Old 02-05-2009, 11:53 AM
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I like the 14B for the rear. Only problem is gearing. If you keep it 22R, 22RE, or 3VZ and drive it on the street, you're going to need a ultra low set of gears. The lowest gearset for the 14B is 5.38. If you need lower than that, I'd suggest a rear 60 or 70 to gain the 5.86, 6.16, or the 7.17 gearing.

The other negative about the 14B is the diff clearance. They hang down really low and require some pretty big tires to keep them out of the rocks.

Rockwells are overkill for a Toyota drivetrain and good luck getting them under a Toyota without 10-15" of lift.

I like the D60 front with 35 spline shafts and D60 rear with 35 spline shafts. Good compromise of strength and ground clearance without killing your stock Toyota t-cases.
Old 02-08-2009, 10:45 AM
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Yeah 14b are massive! You can shave them but depends on your fab skills... And since you were asking about swapping axles I doubt your there yet. What are you wanting to accomplish? I love toyota axles and longs. Is your front axle trussed?
Old 02-08-2009, 11:30 AM
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get a land cruiser axle... dont put any chevy parts on your truck pother than leafs
Old 02-08-2009, 11:54 AM
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I am running 37s on stock width axles, I cut a little bit out of the wheel wells, but need to do more...the other day my tire came up and hit the fender and pushed the fender back, so when I opened the door, I bent the crap out of my fender!! I have no body lift, but now that I think about it, it would fix my rubbing problem. But my junk is already tall enough!!


5.29s are fine on the street, mine drives great on the road. I got longs in the front, and havent broken them yet, but I dont get stupid in my truck!!

In my opinion, I will do 37s again, this time a 12.5, and just have fun!!

I will say that my truck is not my daily driver, but it is street legal and I drive it all the time, and the 37s are great...not to mention they look awesome!!!

Old 02-09-2009, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by aaron


anyone know anyone on here thats running 37's or mabey 36's without going full width??
oh, there are a few of us! ... when i went to 35's the stock birfs lasted 3-4 runs. i upgraded to 30spline longs, and 36.8" iroks on steel beadlocks. they have held up for almost two years with no issues. i did manage to break all four studs on the driverside steering arm last winter [upgrade to six stud knuckles] but that was more my fault, keep the front wheels on the ground! gusset your axle [mines somewhat tweeked now or was when i saved it from the scrape yard] and trim hammer grind, 37"s can be yours....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=67ImjCwpWbo
Old 03-10-2009, 06:26 PM
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I agree w/ 4rnr;
if you're are running a toy motor, then 1 ton axles aren't really needed. IMHO
If you simply want wider, then chevy half ton axles should be fine. Danna 44 and 10 bolt maybe?.... I'm not real up to par on chevy axles.

my plan here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-ideas-169026/
Old 04-08-2009, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ALHOSER
I agree w/ 4rnr;
if you're are running a toy motor, then 1 ton axles aren't really needed. IMHO
If you simply want wider, then chevy half ton axles should be fine. Danna 44 and 10 bolt maybe?.... I'm not real up to par on chevy axles.

my plan here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-ideas-169026/
i agree with the motor statement but if you are going to go full width just pony up for the one tons cause going from toys to a 44 and 10 bolt is kind of a step back in strength.

i am running toy axles with a buick v-6 and 39.5's and have not broke anything yet but i have been babying it cause i am just counting the minutes till i kill my stock birfs, so i bought a d60 and a eaton one ton axle for mine and getting some 42's so i donthave to worry about using the power i got.

also if you want to really make your stock birfs last turn in the steering stops, limit your steering down and it increases thier strength incredably.

when i get my buid under way i will let you know.
Old 04-08-2009, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by aaron
thanks for the heads up...i only lurk over there for that reason...

ya im thinking about it...preferably 60's front and rear


*sigh* full width would be sickkk

88 pickmeup
Dana 60 front
Dana 70 rear
Currently 39.5 iroks Only the inner quarter of the tire is under the fender.
It's got a completely flat bottom.

The weak link in it is the output shaft in the third transfercase.
My friend is hoping to get the nw Marlin 30 spline shaft in for Moab in two weeks.
Old 05-08-2011, 08:09 AM
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Last edited by Bojangles; 05-08-2011 at 08:10 AM.
Old 05-11-2011, 09:28 PM
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on my 884runner i running a d60/d70 on 37mtrs and with 513 gears i can cruse around at 80 on the freeway and is fun to drive the motor i had was a 3.0 v6 and it did fine with this combo but i did change the motor to a 4.3 after the headgaskets went for the 3rd time its not that hard to put on i used sky manufacturings front hanger and their highsteer with an adaptor for the gm master cylinder and finally had to change the end of my brakelines to chevy fittings but i like the way my runner is setup good luck in our decision
Old 10-21-2011, 07:06 AM
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1ton swap from toyota sas swap

Originally Posted by aaron
hey guys whats up sas compleated and tons of thinking going on...anyone got experience with doing a sas with a toyota axle and then upgrading to a dana 60? whats involved?

p.s. search...last two hours....nothing useful

The question is are you staying with leaf springs or are you going linked? If you stay with leafs (as I did works great) you will have to widen your front springs out because the dana 60 has a spring perch built into the 3rd member and if you do not widen your springs your front axle will not sit where it needs to be. Sky's manufacturing (skymanufacturing.com) sells a Toyota full width sas swap kit which brings your springs from a 28.5" width to the chevy 31.5" width then all you have to do is bolt up your axle if the stock perches are in place as for the rear you have too re mount your perches... I did this to mine but I already plan on 3 link front and 4 link the rear..... also for awesome axle kits ruff stuff specialties has awesome kits. Hope this helps feel free to pm me for questions it took me a while but I have done my research

Last edited by minizilla; 10-21-2011 at 07:12 AM. Reason: mispelled words
Old 03-12-2012, 05:02 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Volcom
I like the 14B for the rear. Only problem is gearing. If you keep it 22R, 22RE, or 3VZ and drive it on the street, you're going to need a ultra low set of gears. The lowest gearset for the 14B is 5.38. If you need lower than that, I'd suggest a rear 60 or 70 to gain the 5.86, 6.16, or the 7.17 gearing.

The other negative about the 14B is the diff clearance. They hang down really low and require some pretty big tires to keep them out of the rocks.

Rockwells are overkill for a Toyota drivetrain and good luck getting them under a Toyota without 10-15" of lift.

I like the D60 front with 35 spline shafts and D60 rear with 35 spline shafts. Good compromise of strength and ground clearance without killing your stock Toyota t-cases.
Get on pirate there is ways you can shave the bottom of the 14b to make some Clearence up. But rock wells are even heavier then the 60 and 14b the 60-14 are very popular for after market parts
Old 03-12-2012, 05:20 PM
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Rockwells are overkill for a Toyota drivetrain and good luck getting them under a Toy

I went from one tons d60 and 14b to dual steer rocks and I'm only running 4" lift trailgear springs along with the added weight of a tbi 350 I have no clearance issues, but I did use northwest offroad's bolt in v8 conversion motor mounts which kept my motor from dropping down into the frame I have perfect clearance between my firewall and my trans housing and my dual Toyota transfer cases sit in the same spot as the factory had them I didn't have to remount my crossmember.... Along with the v8 swap I'm running a stock t350 with a 2.28 doubler with 4.7:1 reduction in the rear case and the rocks come factory in 6.72:1 gears running 44" tires I love it wouldn't go back only thing left if to go coilovers and links

The above title is a quote by the way... Just so no confusion

Last edited by minizilla; 03-12-2012 at 05:21 PM.
Old 11-29-2017, 04:04 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by minizilla
The question is are you staying with leaf springs or are you going linked? If you stay with leafs (as I did works great) you will have to widen your front springs out because the dana 60 has a spring perch built into the 3rd member and if you do not widen your springs your front axle will not sit where it needs to be. Sky's manufacturing (skymanufacturing.com) sells a Toyota full width sas swap kit which brings your springs from a 28.5" width to the chevy 31.5" width then all you have to do is bolt up your axle if the stock perches are in place as for the rear you have too re mount your perches... I did this to mine but I already plan on 3 link front and 4 link the rear..... also for awesome axle kits ruff stuff specialties has awesome kits. Hope this helps feel free to pm me for questions it took me a while but I have done my research
what u joints are you running in the back I just did the 1ton swap dana 60 front 14 bolt back.
Attached Thumbnails 81 toyota axle to a dana 60...anyone?-img_20171115_182809_017.jpg  
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